"Has anyone ever tried ..." Topic
23 Posts
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 Unlucky General  | 18 Mar 2013 1:20 p.m. PST |
… transparent bases for ground forces? I use glass bases for my 1/1200 ships which I find works extremely well. I was looking at photographs of a demonstration wargame which used movement trays for quite large units. I confess I am not a fan. Even my bases (anywhere up to nine figures) in 28mm can't seamlessly negotiate dramatically broken or defined terrain. So, I was just wondering what it would look like if bases were clear – glass or perspex. I was thinking the scenics below would show better, figures would never mis-match the table tops and standing back, the effect might be superior. Just think how much time you'd cut down by not having to detail bases? Has anyone tried this? |
 Editor in Chief Bill   | 18 Mar 2013 1:46 p.m. PST |
I've tried them with GEVs in microarmor scale. Depending on your terrain, one possible problem is that the bases can slide off the slopes… |
| 14Bore | 18 Mar 2013 1:48 p.m. PST |
Not long ago there was this question on a TMP, sounds like a good idea that doesn't work well. |
| Cardinal Hawkwood | 18 Mar 2013 1:53 p.m. PST |
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| Bandolier | 18 Mar 2013 2:02 p.m. PST |
Clear plastic and/or glass are reflective surfaces and would make it look odd and not blend into the table as I think you intend. I think a lot of us have contemplated and discarded the idea at one time or another. |
| BrianW | 18 Mar 2013 2:46 p.m. PST |
I've tried it, and like it, but I seem to be in the minority on this topic. I mount my 15mm infantry figures for WWII 2 to a 25x20mm rectangular clear base from Litko that is 1.5mm thick. My Vietnam figures are mounted similarly, except that VC are 3 to an oval base that is a little larger. If you would like, Unlucky General, I have some pictures on the computer I can send to you. PM me if you are interested.
BWW |
| Mako11 | 18 Mar 2013 3:16 p.m. PST |
If you can tone down the reflectiveness a bit, I think it would work. I've thought about using Dullcoat, or something similar, but haven't done it yet, so don't know if it works. Also, there is glass/plastic that is supposedly less reflective than the plain stuff, but I haven't tried it either, since it is a lot more expensive. Usually, it's used for picture framing, etc., so I think it might be perfect, if it can be cut and polished relatively easily. Even with the reflectiveness, I think it would look a lot better in mixed environments, e.g. instead of having troops standing on grass bases in the middle of the street, inside buildings, or on top of them, or vice versa. |
| Calico Bill | 18 Mar 2013 3:22 p.m. PST |
I use 1" x 3" microscope slides, dullcoated, for my 6mm ACW and Napoleonic Armies. It works very well. |
| Malaki the Wonderer | 18 Mar 2013 3:48 p.m. PST |
Interesting article here link |
| Pedrobear | 18 Mar 2013 5:16 p.m. PST |
It might catch on. I recently saw a picture of a clear movement tray being used. |
| Cacique Caribe | 18 Mar 2013 5:23 p.m. PST |
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| Unlucky General | 18 Mar 2013 5:53 p.m. PST |
Thanks CC and DeadAwake – some very interesting links and great looking options. For me and my WAB games, skirmishers and any troops types who might be expected to man battlements as well as fight in the field are definitely getting this option. It looks like a choice between glare or crazy ground? |
| Tommy20 | 18 Mar 2013 8:12 p.m. PST |
Yeah, this comes up fairly regularly. The consensus seems to be that it sounds good in theory, but doesn't really work in practice. |
| CorSecEng | 18 Mar 2013 8:22 p.m. PST |
I've made some for a few customers. They seemed happy. Really depends on the person I guess. I have some 1/16" acrylic laying around. That might work better then the standard 3mm. |
| MajorB | 19 Mar 2013 4:28 a.m. PST |
Tried it and hated it. The clear plastic is far too reflective. |
| thehawk | 19 Mar 2013 12:35 p.m. PST |
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 Sgt Slag | 19 Mar 2013 1:26 p.m. PST |
Actually, folks, if you matte clear coat it, the reflectiveness is removed. It shows the underlying terrain, with a slightly darker shade to it. It works on any flat, smooth terrain surface, as the terrain shows through, clearly, when the base is in direct contact with it. Advantages: simple; incredibly fast preparation/finish, as you only need to glue the figure down, then matte coat both the figure, and the base, at the same time (top surface only, no need to matte coat the bottom of the base), with an application of clear matte spray varnish; your figure will look appropriate no matter what the terrain is, as the underlying terrain shows through, clearly (wood, stone, tar, water, grass, wheat, whatever); if you paint the molded base black, you save not only time, but effort -- it serves as an exaggerated shadow beneath the figure, especially if the molded base is small; one of the biggest advantages is that you don't have to spend time detailing the base with static grass, rocks, sand, whatever. Disadvantages: the biggest dis-advantage is that you don't have to spend time detailing the base with static grass, rocks, sand, whatever (many folks like detailing bases, into mini-dioramas, and this basing technique removes that from the model -- some like this time-saver, some hate it because they want to detail the bases…); the only other dis-advantage is that you must acquire the bases in the first place. If you order pre-cut, acrylic, they are terribly expensive. If you cut your own with a table-saw (most accurate straight cuts; band-saws work, but you won't have a very straight edge…), you can buy larger sheets of Plexi-Glass (4' x 8' is available, but I recommend smaller sheets -- they will supply you with literally thousands of bases after being cut into 1" x 1" pieces… ~4,608, 1"-square bases), or other clear plastic materials, at your local DIY box stores (mail-order is another option), and cut them down to whatever custom size you need. Unfortunately, few people are willing to experiment with it, and we get a lot of inaccurate information about it. Get a small piece of picture-frame glass, or plastic, from a store; matte clear coat it (only one side is necessary); plop it onto your table, so it is sitting flush with the surface. You don't even need to put a figure on it for this experiment, to see how well it does/does not work… Then you can decide whether it is working for you, on your table. Cheers! |
| zoneofcontrol | 19 Mar 2013 5:42 p.m. PST |
Funny… I was just on the Two Hour Wargames Yahoo Group site earlier today and saw some ATZ game reports with clear bases in use. It kinda made sense to me when I thought about it. In an urban setting a figure could move over concrete (gray), asphalt (black), grass/fields (green), dirt lot (brown), etc. and the clear base shows the underneath terrain color. Whereas a single basing color system may make the figure stand out awkwardly. I'm not 100% sold on it but that may be the traditionalist in me. The old childhood modelbuilder in me remembers that a decent base or diorama can spruce up the appearance of a modestly completed model. On the other hand, with small figures (15mm) a clear base could focus you more on the figure than the entire figure/base asembly. |
| (Stolen Name) | 19 Mar 2013 8:15 p.m. PST |
The clear acrylic bases look fine to me |
| Mako11 | 22 Mar 2013 4:15 p.m. PST |
"Disadvantages: the biggest dis-advantage is that you don't have to spend time detailing the base with static grass, rocks, sand, whatever (many folks like detailing bases, into mini-dioramas, and this basing technique removes that from the model -- some like this time-saver, some hate it because they want to detail the bases…); the only other dis-advantage is that you must acquire the bases in the first place". I think I could probably learn to live with that type of a "disadvantage". |
| Hobhood4 | 23 Mar 2013 1:46 a.m. PST |
This sounds interesting. Any pictures, Sgt. Slag?
Does Plexi-Glass 'score and snap'? |
| Sgt Slag | 23 Mar 2013 7:23 p.m. PST |
No photo's currently. Try the test listed above (matte spray on glass). Alternatively, take some clear contact paper, and apply it to glass/Plexi-Glass, and then place it over some terrain -- same effect, as the clear contact paper is translucent, as well. Yes, Plexi-Glass will score and snap, but I recommend a deep scoring, or it may break away from the score mark. The thicker it is, the deeper the score needs to be. Cheers! |
| French Wargame Holidays | 26 Mar 2013 3:45 a.m. PST |
Greg, Are you going looney in that heat? Come back to the cool climate and settle yourself down a little. A real big job cutting and rebasing all of your WAB stuff. stay with the crowd, you to too close to the edge…….
BTW I will send your Mdf and putty basing stuff on Thursday
cheers
Matt |
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