| zoraxxx | 07 Nov 2006 7:22 p.m. PST |
I think bases that would blend in with any terrain would be wonderful! |
| Pictors Studio | 07 Nov 2006 7:23 p.m. PST |
GW makes flight stands that have transparent plastic bases. You could glue your figures to those. |
| zoraxxx | 07 Nov 2006 7:31 p.m. PST |
They're a little large for 28mm, and they have a height that would be all right for a levitating character, but not for most. Still, thanks for the idea, I might try it yet! |
| jpattern | 07 Nov 2006 7:32 p.m. PST |
The problem is, clear bases are glossy, which kind of spoils the effect, and their bottom sides scratch easily (ouch!), which further spoils the effect.
Having said that, it's easy enough to cut your own clear bases from clear acryllic sheet, available from any decent-sized hobby shop as well as online shops. Try it on a few figures, see if you like it. |
| jpattern | 07 Nov 2006 7:34 p.m. PST |
Pictors means you could just use the round flight stand base, without the flight "stick". |
| The Game Crafter | 07 Nov 2006 7:40 p.m. PST |
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| Roll Again | 07 Nov 2006 7:47 p.m. PST |
If you mounted your figures on mesh there would be some of the board showing through, without the inevitable shininess [shineyness? shinieness?] of plastic bases. |
 Editor in Chief Bill   | 07 Nov 2006 7:47 p.m. PST |
Think about your terrain, too – most transparent bases will slide down slopes… |
| Topkick890 | 07 Nov 2006 7:48 p.m. PST |
Game Crafter The interest is up to two – zoraxx and me. |
 Extra Crispy  | 07 Nov 2006 7:51 p.m. PST |
Litko now does custom acrylic stuff. Have him make you some and see if they work for you. Transparent bases might work better for airplanes or ships. |
| jinxd13 | 07 Nov 2006 9:08 p.m. PST |
I am a Glazier, if you wanted me to I could always custom make them for you out of glass/or plexiglass…maybe even lexan. Anyone wanting something like this drop me a email.
I would probably be more interested in trade and shipping expenses than money. jinxd_13 (at) hotmail (dot) com jinxd_13@hotmail.com I would need exact sizes that you will need.. Oh and btw ,,,I think glass would probably be the most durable as far as scratches go. Oh and dont worry this would probably be alot cheaper than anyone else.. Im thinking maybe 25-75 cents apiece..probably cheaper for bigger orders. |
 Gungnir  | 07 Nov 2006 9:21 p.m. PST |
I have a set, with nicely polished sides and all, it's a tester set with various sizes, distributed by a Dutch company which sells them as bases for displaying minerals. Rather expensive, IIRC. But that would be an avenue to research elsewhere, I'ld guess, mineral collectors shops / supply places. |
| zoraxxx | 07 Nov 2006 10:07 p.m. PST |
Perhaps a dullcote could take the gloss off. I use a brush-on after bulletproofing my minis, and it really takes the gloss off! I've been using pale green bingo markers for a bit, and they're far less obtrusive than the black bases. I'd really like to have a clear slot-base (like GW bases) ideally. I think a neutral gray painted on the sides of the minibase would tend to almost disappear once slotted due to diffraction (or refraction- I'm not sure which is the right term!) |
| artslave | 07 Nov 2006 10:24 p.m. PST |
An old wargame buddy had all his Vikings mounted on clear plastic. The slipping and sliding downhill was so awful, he was forced to cut them all off and remount. I don't mind nice bases with some scenics added. Short of doing dioramas, bases are just part of the compromise. Mass formation stands could be done just like a diorama, with all the figure bases buried. But what to do when the senario changes terrain? Unless you can train your minies to step off their little base and walk around on the gameboard, you might have to live with it. |
| Double Ace | 07 Nov 2006 10:29 p.m. PST |
I've been thinking the same for aerial games, using telescoping antennae with swiveling heads. I've had some prototypes made up in the last week or two, and they work very well. The antennae just arrived today, and the bases should be available in the next couple of weeks. The 3" hexes work nicely with 1/300th metal aircraft, and 1/144th scale plastic planes. I'm still doing a little testing for bases with heavier aircraft, in order to ensure stability, e.g. 1/72nd scale WWI diecast metal planes, and 1/144th scale metal ones. The antennae will be matched for a specific polarity, so no need to figure out which plane goes on which stand, or for you to have to buy roughly twice as many as you really need in order to get them all to match, since that can be rather annoying or expensive when setting up for a game. I can be reached via e-mail at the following address, if any of you are interested in them: rkentjr@hotmail.com |
| Mark Plant | 07 Nov 2006 11:21 p.m. PST |
"The problem is, clear bases are glossy" You can buy cheap acrylic designed for framing pictures which is matte on one side and easily cut with a scalpel. Of course you still have the sliding down hills problem. |
| sirlancelot | 08 Nov 2006 4:12 a.m. PST |
the Editor -- 'Think about your terrain, too – most transparent bases will slide down slopes…' Equip your troops with skis. |
| vojvoda | 08 Nov 2006 4:52 a.m. PST |
The trick here is to get small felt dots from the craft store and put in the four corners of the base. That will help but after cutting your own putting on four dots etc I do not think it is worth the effort…
VR
James Mattes |
| alien BLOODY HELL surfer | 08 Nov 2006 7:15 a.m. PST |
Funny you ask for them as it's a project sitting on the to do list at the moment – a set of clear bases for 28mm figures (to start with) with and without slots for figures with tabs (IE for slotta bases) and non 'tabbed' ones. Much the same as normal bases just using a clear plastic/resin. Just one of the things my dad said 'these would be good, I'll make some' and has not yet had the chance :-) If I can drag him away from all the stuff people are paying him to do, to do the stuff I want…… |
| Timmo uk | 08 Nov 2006 7:39 a.m. PST |
I had a couple of Napoleonic ships based on clear plastic and if I get back into naval stuff I'll do the same again. There's no sliding down the sea problem. I'm not too bothered about the figures but with ships the basing can really jump out at you. |
| arsienal | 08 Nov 2006 7:48 p.m. PST |
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| Ditto Tango 2 1 | 08 Nov 2006 8:22 p.m. PST |
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| Ditto Tango 2 1 | 08 Nov 2006 8:24 p.m. PST |
I pressed submit too soon… My wife came up with the idea of buying clear plastic picture frames – the type that you slide photos into. The stuff I have is thick enough so that I can easily pick it up as well. |
| zoraxxx | 08 Nov 2006 8:50 p.m. PST |
If the bases have a lip around the bottom edge, ala GW bases, there shouldn't be much slippage. A flat base will act like a transparent toboggan! alien BLOODY HELL surfer: that's great news! If some major manufacturer would make them in bulk, I'd switch all my minis over. I've gotten to where I don't even put any terrain materials on, since the plain bases transfer to different types of terrain better ( if you squint really really hard, a black base kindof looks somewhat shadowlike- of course it'll always have to be high noon!). I sometimes will put on a coat of Graveyard Earth or a concrete color for a mini that's obviously urban, but that's about it these dys. I suppose I could make a number of bases with diferent types of flocking, etc., and rebase for each type, but that sems ponderous. That's why I'd really like something clear. |
| Psycho Rabbit | 09 Nov 2006 12:02 p.m. PST |
GameZone minis in Spain sells clear GW-esque bases in various sizes, 20mm 25mm 50x 25mm etc. Rabbit |
| zoraxxx | 10 Nov 2006 10:42 p.m. PST |
Psycho Rabbit- Thanks for the info! I will check them out. |
| zoraxxx | 10 Nov 2006 10:56 p.m. PST |
Psycho Rabbit- I checked out the site (I don't speak Spanish and I was coasting on what Latin, French and the occasional Spanish word I recognized), but I could only find minis in the catalog. Do you kow what to look under for the bases? |
| Jim Bros | 15 Nov 2006 2:11 p.m. PST |
link Colin at our club in Hornchurch U.K. made these and they are really good, I cant imagine a naval game without them now. Happy gaming, Jim. |
 Sgt Slag | 06 Dec 2006 11:49 a.m. PST |
I've been using CD jewel cases for several years. I attach the bases before dull-coating my mini's, which also dull-coats the base. With regards to slipping and sliding, try spraying the underside of the base with the tool-handle rubber spray-on, available from hardware stores. This stuff dulls the plastic somewhat, and it gives it a rubber-cement-like coating, which will not slide down your terrain hills. In all honesty, my figures based on cardboard, have had sliding problems, much like my CD-case based figures: the angle, and gravity, are the cause, far more than lack of friction. The edge of the plastic is marginally noticeable, but you have to look for it, IMO. I find that my figures blend very well, with whatever terrain I place them on, as the base is translucent, allowing the 'ground' to show through. I have always detested the sight of dirt, rocks, and bushes, on the wooden/stone catwalks, bridges, and tower roof tops, when you go with flocked bases. Switch to clear bases, and never look back! Cheers! |
| Sgt Slag | 06 Dec 2006 11:54 a.m. PST |
Forgot to mention: score the CD jewel cases with a sharp, X-acto knife, then snap off; score several, using a metal straigh-edge, forming a grid, then snap apart. I also recommend using Hot Glue to attach mini's, regardless of the material the mini is made from. I've had success gluing resin, metal, hard- and soft-plastic figures, with Hot Glue; vinyl figures (D&D) will stick, but they will pop off if you flex them too much -- just peel off the Hot Glue from the base, and re-glue them. Cheers! |
