And here is how it was done . . .
link
I started with 2 inch polystyrene sheets (blue in the photos), with straight vertical cuts.
I then used a foam cutter and box cutter to give it more texture and ridges.
After that, I put each blue piece over a sheet of 1/2 inch pink polystyrene (also visible in the photos), and traced the outline of each blue piece.
With a box cutter, I cut the pink board to about an inch outside of the traced outline.
I then contoured the pink pieces to about a 45 degree angle, again using the foam cutter.
After that, I placed glued the pink and blue pieces together.
I then bought a small 1/4 inch mdf board (24" x 36" piece).
The combined polystyrene sets were then placed over the 1/4 inch mdf and outlines were drawn (from an inch to a couple of inches, in curved irregular patterns).
The mdf was then cut with a jig saw, the edges were slightly beveled with a box cutter and then sanded.
The polystyrene sets were then glued to the mdf. Spaces were filled using wood putty. Then they were slightly sanded. The flat tops were then brushed with two or three layers of wood glue as reinforcement.
Add rocks and sand to taste. A light brush of diluted wood putty wouldn't hurt.
Brush prime it black, followed by this GW Moria color scheme, using craft paints (after much experimentation with paints with ElCid1099).
Each successive lighter shade should be drybrushed less heavily than the previous shade. The initial base shade should also be heavily drybrushed (not wet-painted on as a solid base):
* Americana Deep Midnight Blue DA166 (yes blue – trust me)
* Anita's Charcoal 11086
* Americana Slate Grey DA68
* Folk Art Basil Green 645
Blue First – Americana Deep Midnight Blue DA166 (lightened with a couple of drops of slate grey – you are aiming for something similar to GW Shadow Grey)
Anita's Charcoal 11086 (lightened with a drop of Slate Grey)
Americana Slate Grey DA68
Folk Art Basil Green 645 (lightened with about 30% Sand/Sable from below – again this should look similar to GW Rotting Flesh – use very sparingly – a very light drybrush is all that is needed)
If you get it right it's a good stand-in for
GW Shadow Grey
GW Codex Grey
GW Fortress Grey
GW Rotting Flesh
In case you are wondering this is the Rock palette used in one of GW's online rock/stone tutorials. It looks pretty good and the blue is hardly noticable in the end but does help get that gloomy effect.
The 24" by 36" playing board is similarly made using 1/4 inch mdf.
It was sprayed with textured paint (the FleckStone type). After it was dry, it was primed with flat black spray paint and then drybrushed as described above.
Hope this helps.
CC