"Working with Styrene" Topic

I finally decided to build some small shanties for my 15mm sci fi project. I'm thinking of using Evergreen plastic sheets and shapes, but I haven't used it before. I would guess that it will be similar to building plastic model kits, but I'm not exactly sure what tools and adhesives to use.

Can I cut it on a cutting mat with a hobby knife? Should I be using a matte knife and cutting it on scrap plywood? Does "regular" model glue work to hold it together? Would I be better off with super glue or thin (brushable) cement? Is it fairly easy to use a straight edge and a blade when making cuts? Does it need to be clamped while the glue sets? Should I try to build hollow buildings around a form for ease of mock-up, dry fitting and clamping during final assembly? Can I paint and weather it with standard acrylic paints and washes? Do I need to wash the plastic to remove any mold release agents before beginning assembly?

Any tips, tricks, hints, or other help you can offer will be gratefully accepted.

Do NOT use superglue. Use the standard model airplane cement, whether in tube or brush. It will say that it's for polystyrene on the label.
The cement melts the plastic, and then sets while holding them together. whether you need to clamp it or not, depends on the sizr of the pieces.
If you ae making buildings, be sure to cut and use braces to strengthen the walls because 90 degree walls will just fold in on you.

Practice cutting. Use a sharp hobby knife on a cutting mat. Score and snap, and then clean the cut by sanding.

If you want to paint with acrylics, prime before you paint with Testor's flat white or black. This is one of the very few "hobby" primers that I recommend.
Hobby enamels or Tamiya acrylics do not necessarily need to be primed, though.

Always use a new blade. The difference is very noticeable!

Dan

Sharp knife.
Liquid Poly Cement.
Regular cutting mat.

Liquid poly is thin like water and melts the plastics together.
It will set in a few seconds.
Job done.

Also, for shanties, don't worry too much about it being neat!

For scoring plastic sheet I recommend one of these link

I usually use a solvent such as Tenax-7R, applied with a disposable syringe and fine tipped needle. Grind off the sharp tip of the needle first, to avoid any accidents. The solvent will melt the plastic at the joint and "weld" the pieces together. Don't use more than is needed, as you will simply melt the plastic.

I also use medium weight CA+ type cyanoacrylate with styrene. It will fill gaps and be fast to work with, if using an accelerator. Additionally, you can make simulated weld beads with it.

An adjustable protractor is very helpful for making square and angled cuts:

link

You usually don't need to actually cut completely through sheet styrene, simply scribe it with your knife and snap, by bending opposite the scribe.

Go with .04 inch thickness or thicker sheet whenever you can. .03" and thinner will often warp over time, particularly if you over used solvent or solvent based glue during construction.

Orange/red automotive glazing putty/compound works well with styrene as a filler for joints, scratches, etc. In very thin coats or spot applications, it will dry quickly and sand evenly with the styrene. Don't apply in thick coats, as the solvent in it will soak into the styrene and make it soft. Apply at no more than a third of the thickness of the plastic, and never more than 1/16" thick.

Get this Pack!!!

link
or
link

It comes with an assortment of rods and sheets of different sizes and details. I have bought like 10 of them over the last few years. I used the rods to add interior supports as well trim and detailing. Here are a couple of my buildings I have made using the above pack and a few HO scale bits.
TMP link

As for tips – HO scale bits work nice for detailing. I am a fan of Walthers roof details
link
as well as the windows and doors
link

Also
Bulk, Bulk, bulk!!!
If you want a four flat corrugated metal walls hut, just use cardboard it is cheap and simple. If your working with styrene you can add fine details. Make use of that! Make thick pillars or angled struts. Windows trim and door frames.

Dan,

This thread is very inspiring:

"Small SF Off-World Frontier Town Layout Suggestions?"

TMP link

Also, I figured that corrugated sheet to probably be the .100 size, so I ordered a sheet. (One centimeter is about .40 inches, 4 ribs to the centimeter, there about 1 rib per .10 inches.)

Dropzonetoe:

I took your advice and ordered that Odds and Ends pack, and I'll go by the train shop and look at HO bits (or back to Hobbylinc), and to the fabric store for granny grating as well.

Some great examples in this thread that you linked:

"Outpost buildings…"

TMP link

Your point about bulk is well taken. I'd like to build something similar to what you've shown, as well as these GZG buildings form the thread Stealth1000 posted:

"Shanty Town Colony Part 2"

TMP link

MAD MIKE posted:

For scoring plastic sheet I recommend one of these link

The link took me to the OLFA front page. Good tip. Great knives all around? What model are you using or do you recommend? I'll look for them. I think I recognize the brand; they look like the kind I've been using at work for a couple decades. Somebody always has a few of those, no matter what shop I work at. Thanks. Much appreciated.

John the OFM, Cacique Caribe, Angel Barracks:

Thanks for the notes on techniques and the concise basics. Cheers.

irishserb;

Copy that. That's good info. I may still have one of those adjustable protractors, from my days working as a fabricator (among other things, one of my jobs was machinist, set builder/installer – carpenter/electrician, & automation installer/rigger/operator).

I'll test out the super glue and glazing putting, and research the solvent you mentioned. Cheers.

Mad Mike's link first took me to the OLFA front page. I selected my country, then re-clicked and it took me to the tool, which is called a Plastic / Laminate Heavy-Duty Cutter (PC-L).

That's weird, when I checked my link it worked fine. Anyway the model I meant to recommend is the Olfa P-450 plastic cutter. link
Hopefully this link works better