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"Transparent Or Translucent Polymer Clays? (Gelatinous Blob)" Topic


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8,671 hits since 25 Nov 2011
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Personal logo Cacique Caribe Supporting Member of TMP25 Nov 2011 2:54 p.m. PST

If you're a Futurama fan, then you must have seen HGB ("Horrible Gelatinous Blob"!

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Well, does Sculpy, Fimo, etc., come in a greenish see-through form?

Thanks,

Dan
TMP link

28mmMan Inactive Member25 Nov 2011 3:17 p.m. PST

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There is a listed translucent but I can not see it being truly semi clear enough for the effect you seek.

28mmMan Inactive Member25 Nov 2011 3:26 p.m. PST

"Translucent clay can be used for a variety of special effects. You can mix in small amounts of colored clay to produce a watercolor effect. Translucent clay by itself has a look something like alabaster. You can use a thin layer of translucent clay over a strongly-colored pattern to create a milky surface. And translucent clays are often used in combination with colors to produce faux stones like ivory, jade, and amber.

Most clay manufacturers offer one or more translucent clays.

Sculpey translucent #510 is one of the most transparent of the clays, very soft, and tends to pick up a yellowish tinge when fired longer than the minimum time.

Fimo offers two translucent clays. Fimo art translucent #00, which is only sold in 12-ounce blocks, is preferred for making faux stones because the fired clay develops plaques, tiny imperfections that enhance the clay's resemblance to natural stone. Fimo transparent/opaque #01 is one of the least transparent of the translucent clays, and unlike art translucent, it does not readily change color at normal firing temperatures of 250-275 Fahrenheit.

The translucent clays are not truly transparent, but you can increase their transparency level:

If you're mixing colored clay with transparent clay to produce a color-wash effect, don't use too much of the colored clay; the pigment will make the clay less transparent. Try mixing a pea-sized ball of colored clay with a golfball-sized ball of translucent.
* While the clay is still warm from firing, dip it into Future acrylic floor wax.
* After the piece is cool, wet-sand and buff it. Pieces finished this way look more translucent than pieces finished with a glaze.

As of now, there are no truly transparent polymer clays (and given the limitations of polymer chemistry, there may never be such clays). You can obtain a near-transparent effect by putting a very thin layer of translucent clay over an object, firing, then wet-sanding and buffing it, although there will be some cloudiness.

You can also use glass marbles or stones as a transparent element of your design along with the clay. Check out the article in the July/August 1996 issue of Jewelry Crafts magazine on using glass marbles with tiny polymer-clay designs to create beads"

*****

These teeth were done with Sculpey Translucent

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Personal logo Cacique Caribe Supporting Member of TMP25 Nov 2011 3:33 p.m. PST

Wow. I would love to get my hands on some of those, so I can try and make some 20mm tall HGBs:

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Dan

28mmMan Inactive Member25 Nov 2011 3:35 p.m. PST

There is a liquid gel that can be used to fill a mold with some measure of clarity

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TLS Translucent Liquid Sculpey
KPC Kato Polyclay
FDG Fimo Liquid Deko Gel

Blog that tested all three
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28mmMan Inactive Member25 Nov 2011 3:56 p.m. PST

I would consider another option…lost wax casting.

Sculpt in wax

Skin coat in plaster

Second coat in thin plaster

Melt out wax by putting in oven hole or base side down so all wax pours out (into pan for reuse!)

(the wax should leave a skin on the plaster, but a spray of release agent would be helpful)

Drill or pick out drain point for air to escape

Pour in Acrylic Water with a tiny measure of green tint

Let cure and then pick of plaster


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jpattern2 Supporting Member of TMP25 Nov 2011 4:49 p.m. PST

A few years back I made Brain Slugs for my wife and daughter out of a mix of Sculpey translucent and glow-in-the-dark with just a little lime green added in for color, with the eye done in white and black Sculpey, then the whole thing gloss-coated after baking. The end result wasn't transparent (probably due to the addition of the glow-in-the-dark clay) but it definitely has depth, and a nice lime green color, and it glows beautifully at night.

Even unadulterated, though, the translucent is just that, translucent, not transparent.

Personal logo Cacique Caribe Supporting Member of TMP25 Nov 2011 8:59 p.m. PST

JPattern2,

Sounds awesome! Got pictures of those "brain slugs"?

Did they look anything like these?

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Dan

000 Triple Aught Inactive Member25 Nov 2011 9:08 p.m. PST

Yes, jpattern2, if possible, I'd like to see some pictures too and also your method for creating those slugs. They sound great and I can think of several gaming/terrain uses that the method might be perfect for in future projects.

28mmMan Inactive Member26 Nov 2011 8:10 a.m. PST

…yes pictures…good good…

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jpattern2 Supporting Member of TMP26 Nov 2011 10:11 a.m. PST

Sounds like I have a mandate. Look for photos this weekend.

ScoutII Inactive Member26 Nov 2011 11:19 a.m. PST

I would consider another option…lost wax casting.

Lot of trouble on that…

Make your master in something like Sculpey or GS (bake if needed). Do a one part mold (I'd consider a quick mold putty like link ). Pour with a clear polymer medium (FIMO, Sculpey and others) or a clear resin (many to choose from). For color, mix a tiny amount of dye with the resin or medium.

For added interest include objects like spare weapons, sculls and tore up zombies to the liquid before it cures. For a more interesting distribution of the additional flotsam – do the figure in two or three pours. Add different bits at different points in the process and they will be well suspended.

Used the same process years ago with clear resin and regular silicone rubber for doing some slimes and oozes and the like for D&D. Works well enough. The addition of the quick putties and polymer mediums…it should go even faster with fewer hassles.

Personal logo etotheipi Sponsoring Member of TMP26 Nov 2011 5:51 p.m. PST

You might try to mold the Fimo transparent clay around whatever you want captured and then fire it up. Most hard plastics won't fall completely apart at 265F for 10 min (which, ironically, is in my weekly article). If you color the outside of the final piece with ink (I use Sharpie) and then put a coat of sealant around it, it will take on a translucent effect and not get too dark in the middle (it will be transparent with a film of translucent color on the outside).

I made some jellyfish hair clips for my niece by trapping some translucent beads in the center of transparent Fimo and coloring the outside pink. (I'll see if I can dig up some pix…) Trapping things in Fimo gives you the option of precise placement of the object, but does run the risk of melting during the firing.

jpattern2 Supporting Member of TMP28 Nov 2011 1:24 p.m. PST

Here you go, guys. Scratchbuilt Brain Slugs:

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The two life-size Slugs are 4" to top of head, 6" to tips of antennae. The alien dice are standard-sized, to give you an idea of the scale.

They're built up around small clear glass jelly-jars, to minimize the amount of Sculpey used. They have a satin finish; I forgot that my wife and daughter didn't like the gloss finish. The translucent effect doesn't really come through in the photos. My wife also didn't want antennae on hers.

I made the little guy with the leftover Sculpey. Aw, isn't he cute?

Here they are under black light, to demonstrate the glow-in-the-dark effect:
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I made the eyes out of regular Sculpey, so they don't glow. I tried mixing glow and white for the eyes, but it just didn't look right in normal light, which is how they're usually viewed.

Personal logo Cacique Caribe Supporting Member of TMP31 Dec 2011 9:23 a.m. PST

That is just too cool!!!

Love them. Awesome job there.

Here's a pic of a gelatinous man-eating blob without tentacles:

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I guess that, in a world of 15mm people, that creature would measure around 20mm tall, right?

Dan

Ravenstar Supporting Member of TMP31 Dec 2011 8:51 p.m. PST

heres a how page

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Personal logo Cacique Caribe Supporting Member of TMP23 Mar 2012 7:06 a.m. PST

Man, that's an awesome tutorial!!!

I've definitely gotta try it, until I'm able to recreate this look, cow and all:

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I'd probably go with this shape to start with:

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And stay away from the straight "column" (almost phallic) look:

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EDIT The Lego "Clinger" Alien look is an even better shape:

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Now, imagine that "Clinger" alien reduced to about 20mm and done in a clear or semi-clear material. THAT'S how I'll do mine!!!

Dan
TMP link

Watchtower78 Inactive Member23 Mar 2012 7:45 a.m. PST

What a wonderful discussion on blobs!

Personal logo Cacique Caribe Supporting Member of TMP23 Mar 2012 8:35 a.m. PST

Sorry, I'm getting carried away again, aren't I?

I just can't believe I'm getting so excited over making blobs.

Dan

Nathaniel24 Mar 2012 7:23 p.m. PST

I love the lego blob. That's amazing. My life is better because you posted the picture :)

Personal logo Cacique Caribe Supporting Member of TMP24 Mar 2012 10:03 p.m. PST

I wonder how big it is though. I never had any of those fancy lego pieces. All I remember is the plain regular blocks.

Dan

Thornhammer Inactive Member25 Mar 2012 6:30 a.m. PST

It's a minifig helmet, so that should give you an idea of the size. Not massive.

Nathaniel25 Mar 2012 7:26 p.m. PST

It would probably fit loosely over most 28mm miniatures, but getting them is probably very expensive as they seem to only come in one lego set and you get one per larger set.

What I would probably do is find some sort of bead or shape slightly biggeer than the heads of the intended target miniatures and then pump some hot glue over it. Then I'd work out the shape so I could fit the blob of the miniatures' heads. I'd probably give the glue a green ink wash and then seal with a gloss varnish.

If you want to tease tentacles out of the blob, while it's still war, touch it with a tooth pick or something and try to drag out the right shape.

Personal logo Cacique Caribe Supporting Member of TMP25 Mar 2012 7:29 p.m. PST

Nathaniel,

Is this the effect you mean?

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Source:
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TMP link
TMP link

Dan

Nathaniel26 Mar 2012 12:53 a.m. PST

Those are amazing. Cacique Caribe, you always have the best links and pictures ready to go.

But yeah, I bet you could use that same method for making head-enveloping blobs. Might have to put some pam/cooking spray on the piece if you want to remove it after though.

Personal logo Cacique Caribe Supporting Member of TMP26 Mar 2012 1:40 a.m. PST

Nathaniel,

You are too kind.

Anyway, does anyone know of translucent green hot glue sticks? This was all I could find:

auction

Dan

TeknoMerk26 Mar 2012 8:17 a.m. PST

To be honest, I was curious, but not terribly interested, when I first read this. However, now that I see the link that Dan posted, I can think of all kinds of aliens and post-apocalyptic creatures to make! Thanks for posting.

Personal logo Cacique Caribe Supporting Member of TMP26 Mar 2012 9:30 a.m. PST

If you mean the red globs, the credit goes to TMP's "Doctor Mercury".

I think they resemble something like a translucent version of Star Trek's "Horta":

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chinxy.com/Horta.htm

Dan

surdu2005 Sponsoring Member of TMP27 Mar 2012 1:26 a.m. PST

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Recreational conflict makes this translucent blob creature.

See a couple of pictures at bucksurdu.com/blog/?p=841

Personal logo Cacique Caribe Supporting Member of TMP27 Mar 2012 5:47 a.m. PST

OMG. That looks awesome!

Dan

Personal logo Cacique Caribe Supporting Member of TMP07 Apr 2012 10:26 a.m. PST

Guys,

I know this tutorial is not specifically for making a blob, but I think it can be applied to the making of blobs, if one was using translucent or transparent clay:

YouTube link

What do you think?

Dan

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