"Eldar Fire Prism: As A CRASHED Spaceship For 15mm?" Topic

I ordered the upper and lower hull sections (no turret section) from an ebay bits seller:

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The ship seems like it will turn out to be 14cm long by 12 cm wide.

I've got a couple of questions for you guys though . . .

1) Are there printed instructions anywhere online?; and

2) Which current line of 15mm SF figures would fit best with that style, as the occupants and rescuers (they don't have to look like eldars – just look like they could go with the ship)?;

3) I want it to look like a lot of it fell apart before finally settling into the ground. Do you have any suggestions on how to duplicate damage of that sort?

Thanks,

Dan
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Those are sexy pieces, what did you end getting them for $ ?

The damage before it hit the ground would most likely result in there being nothing left but twisted metal…

A long gouge in the earth, a big skid mark, with bits and pieces breaking off and bouncing away from the wreck at speed.

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Yikes! A controlled crash landing perhaps then?

I was the only bidder on the bottom hull piece, so that ended up being a whole 99 cents. The top hull cost me about $4 USD and the engines another 99 cents.

What current 15mm SF figures do you think should be the occupants?

Dan

A controlled landing would leave a nice skid.

Maybe a big rock in the skid line could "trip" your ship near the very end of the skid, a final flip or two, this could give you your desired big crack or "darn I dropped the egg" look. (egg shells dried and sprinkled would make nice debris)

Belly cracks would be nice, main seam lines (like where the wing meets the body, cut along there, blow dryer or light duty torch, open and bend).

Find an old TV, DVD, or VCR and gut it for parts…wreckage parts.

Side note but related – - "hoard_o_bitz" is my own personal fav eBay source for all things GW when I am looking to buy.

So, which current 15mm figure line would look like natural occupants?

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Dan

I think it is a great idea.

Was thinking if I can get a cheep Eldar Tank a few moments with the band saw and some Magic Sculpt and near instant Crashed ship.

why not the crashed ship from battle for mccragge

Spacecraft guts: pressure vessels, wires & plumbing, avionics boxes and unpretty structure.

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Atmo entry capable craft are built to withstand high external pressures (MaxQ) and are fairly low-density, so an impact wouldn't be so high-velocity and structure would survive largely intact. An X-15 and M2F2 were both rebuilt after being written off at 200+ kph crash landings.

"why not the crashed ship from battle for mccragge"

I had one once, and was looking to get it again, but they are a bit pricey nowadays. Besides, if I recall correctly, it doesn't look like any occupants could have survived that crash (just going from memory).

Thanks,

Dan

This is how I plan to paint that Eldar Fire Prism ship. What do you think?

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Dan

That Pred ship looks more like a Tau Orca dropship – or a Devilfish. I've often considered converting one to be a crashed alien spaceship…

Orca? Devilfish?

I guess I need to get myself a little more familiar with those 40K kits.

Thanks,

Dan

QUESTION:

Could a sturdy wire brush provide a realistic "gouging" effect, as when rocks and sand scrape metal hulls during a forced landing?

Thanks,

Dan

Orca? Devilfish?

The Orca is a pricey chunk of Forgeworld resin. I don't recommend it for a crashed-spaceship diorama. The Devilfish is the basic Tau APC. The Hammerhead and Skyray are cousins with big turrets on the top, but the same chassis.

Could a sturdy wire brush provide a realistic "gouging" effect, as when rocks and sand scrape metal hulls during a forced landing?

Absolutely, but a lot of the time it can be done with nothing more than careful painting.

As for instructions, there's only 3 parts. Lower shell, engine section, and upper skin. Make a sandwich by gluing the engine section onto the lower shell, then glue that assembly into the bottom of the upper skin.

You will be missing the canopy that goes over the cockpit, but that's easy enough to replace with some greenstuff. If you want the clear canopy, that's a separate piece.

IIRC, the 'wing flaps' on the upper skin are ~0.020" thick (well, .020 thick applique on the base skin), so some careful sawing to remove the originals and a plastic 'for sale' sign should serve you well.

Thanks so much!

Wonderful advice.

Dan

This is exactly the look I'm after:

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I'll see if I can achieve it and let you guys know.

Thanks,

Dan