| arabianknight | 30 Aug 2010 11:58 p.m. PST |
After I'd TMPed an enquiry about this a while ago TMP link I've finally started upon on a modular terrain project using the old boxfile – a space ship (although it will be able to be used as a land based complex as well). The idea is Briefly outlined here link with the first practical considerations are how to handle the internal doors. I've done a couple of test pieces to compare: link Comments and suggestions welcome as per usual. More updates as they happen. cheers AK
weeblokes.blogspot.com |
| Luckyjoe | 31 Aug 2010 3:36 a.m. PST |
This is a very cool project, I'm looking forward to seeing more. I agree with you about using the door inserts. Perhaps if you use plasticard for the doors that will help fix the problem of flimsiness, but I don't know how to manage the weakness of the weakness of the foam from removing the foam at the lintel. Maybe have the door slide sideways into the wall? Luckyjoe |
| mad mac | 31 Aug 2010 3:51 a.m. PST |
This has the feel of a very interesting project, and would make storage relatively straight forward. As to your internal door problems, how about door and lintel as an integral unit, and replacing the door and lintel with a lintel piece when the door is open. |
| Stealth1000 | 31 Aug 2010 4:14 a.m. PST |
Great stuff. I may have a go myself. |
| Battle Works Studios | 31 Aug 2010 4:36 a.m. PST |
Interesting. I wonder how well plastic drawer organizers would work as substitutes for the boxfiles (which, as you said, don't seem to be readily available in the US)? |
| cloudcaptain | 31 Aug 2010 6:14 a.m. PST |
I would suggest the cheap clear plastic picture frames you can get from most craft stores. They are sometimes cheaper than photo boxes and the like…don't warp…take glue a bit better…etc. If you don't like them being clear you can paper over them or spray them with plastic paint. |
| gweirda | 31 Aug 2010 6:40 a.m. PST |
re: doors I use the FirstLight system -similar to the "lift-out" method, but instead of having the door in the wall itself it is trapped between two adjacent walls (ex – doors to right and top of picture ). Since the only time you need a door is to get to an adjacent room(?) this works well enough. |
| dglennjr | 31 Aug 2010 6:42 a.m. PST |
What about 'beef-ing' up the wall at doors (maybe double thickness) so that you can have a larger slot and thicker door insert. I like the removeable door idea. Just cut the door smaller than the doorway so that it fits in better (not a tight fit) and isn't so fiddly. Also, mount the door to a small, flat, metal base so that it becomes 'self-standing'. Also, what about making the walls more 3D? They need things like vertical, stuctural framing that sticks out of the walls at regular intervals, thicker framing around doors, pipes, vents, wall control panels, and such. |
| arabianknight | 31 Aug 2010 8:00 a.m. PST |
Thanks for all the suggestions folks. I'd actually been giving it a bit of thought/work over this lunchtime. The solution I've settled on is basically make the door facing larger and mount it on mounting card. Instead of cutting out a doorway from the wall, the wall is now joined by the door facing on either side with the door itself (also using mounting card) sliding in the gap. I'll get a few pictures posted up when I get home and get the camera out. |
| Rothgar | 31 Aug 2010 8:57 a.m. PST |
I was thinking sheet magnet to cover the door openings. |
| arabianknight | 31 Aug 2010 9:02 a.m. PST |
Rothgar: I've something like that planned for the doors/bulkheads on the outside edge of the module/box. |
 javelin98  | 31 Aug 2010 9:31 a.m. PST |
You could cut out the portal, leaving the lintel a solid piece, and then have your doors be glued onto U-shaped clip-type pieces that would simply slide down over the lintel. I'm sure you could make them using plasticard that is lightly scored or heated and folded over similar to a bill clip. At some DITY stores, you can buy plastic or vinyl channel pieces for use with vinyl fencing systems, screen doors, etc. There might be something there that is usable for this project. |
| Top Gun Ace | 31 Aug 2010 10:51 a.m. PST |
If making the sections out of clear plastic, you can just leave the doorways clear and either ignore them, or assume a defensive forcefield is in play to restrict movement. Styrene framing around foam-core doors should work to strengthen them. I like the idea of a magnetic sheet to cover the doors too, that would be removeable. The idea of using clear plastic frames for the ship sections is a good one, since they are fairly robust. |
| arabianknight | 31 Aug 2010 11:12 a.m. PST |
I've posted my slight changes now: link There are quite a few nice ideas here. I may use/abuse them later… More updates as they happen |
| Whatisitgood4atwork | 31 Aug 2010 7:04 p.m. PST |
Great idea and well done. I love how you'll be able to store figures and small items inside your terrain too. |
| arabianknight | 17 Sep 2010 1:23 p.m. PST |
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| 28mmMan | 17 Sep 2010 4:01 p.m. PST |
Very cool..what is the miniature, for scale/size reference? |
| Smokey Roan | 18 Sep 2010 9:40 a.m. PST |
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| arabianknight | 18 Sep 2010 10:03 a.m. PST |
The miniatures are old Spacelord figures. I'm pretty sure they come in at 25mm for scale? I'm still waiting for EM4 miniatures to release them again (I believe they have the moulds now but have just released other figures from the range). |
| arabianknight | 04 Oct 2010 1:56 p.m. PST |
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| Top Gun Ace | 05 Oct 2010 2:12 a.m. PST |
Looks great. Thanks for sharing. I love the Space Lords minis. Who produces the paper wall detailing you are using? |
| arabianknight | 05 Oct 2010 4:09 a.m. PST |
The paper walls are from the Orbital Starter Kit by Stones Edges link (although they never released any other kits). It's still available on RPGNow: link |
overcomes character flaws and fields a dozen starships.