"Using Army Painter examples" Topic

After getting a Dark tone for Christmas I thought I'd give it a go on some GW Bretonnian I have, also with a friend of mine having the strong tone (the medium or middle one) I wanted to see what the difference would be between the two dips and Painting/dipping each one.

So here are the figures Using the Army Painter L to R
AP Strong (Dipped), AP Strong (Painted on), Base colours for reference, AP Dark (Dipped), AP Dark (Painted On)

picture

Now after adding a Matt coat of varnish we get the following result again L to R
AP Strong (Dipped), AP Strong (Painted on), Base colours for reference, AP Dark (Dipped), AP Dark (Painted On)

picture

Overall quite a satisfactory result I prefer the dark tone personally and is should save a lot of time to get big units out, will need a bit more tinkering to get the exact results I'm after.

regards

Pablo '66'

Looks great :-)

Looks good. My preference given the photographs is the strong tone.

Thanks for that.
I've been thinking about using AP on some medieval's, but I have been a bit reluctant as I didn't know exactly what I would be getting into and there is the question of painted on v's dipped. After seeing your pictures I am happy to go strong tone dipped.

Looks good. Question: is there a difference between Army Painter and using Minwax Tudor Satin? From the photos, it looks very similar in result, but Army Painter is extremely expensive (at least as compared to the Minwax).

Army Painter is made with 100% wargaming stain, thus the higher price.

…100% wargaming stain…

John never heard of "Minwax Tudor Satin" in the UK so I can't really answer that question sorry.

But saying that I'm sure it would have cost me a lot more to buy several cans of floor wax products trying to find the right product, at least I know this does what is says on the can (and it was given to me free ;).

Nice! Thanks!

Thanks, I've been using Min Wax and wondered how the Army Painter product would look compared to it.

But saying that I'm sure it would have cost me a lot more to buy several cans of floor wax products trying to find the right product, at least I know this does what is says on the can (and it was given to me free ;).

The technique is as old as the hills (almost). Been around since at least the late 1980s. Here's an example of the technique, remarkably similar to the Army painter technique:

link

Minwax Tudor Satin Stain used for "dipping" runs about $8-$10 for the equivalent amount of Army Painter dip, which costs over $30.00 USD here in the US. So, my question to those "in the know" is:

Is the extra cost for the Army Painter worth it? What about AP is better than the minwax stain? It seems the techniques for application are identical, and the results, as shown above, are virtually the same.

Inquiring minds want to know.

doublesix66, thanks for the nice comparison picture.

John N Holly, here's a TMP discussion with comparison posts by people who have tried both Army Painter Quick Shade and Minwax, as well as individual assessments of the price comparison: TMP link

… and here's a Google search that found the above; try the other links if you want: link

Thanks donrice. I saw some of those posts, but there doesn't seem to be any definitive assessment or comparison between the two, save one positive comparison in favor of Army Painter.

At the bottom of this thread is my review of the products side by side. Unfortunately my camera is out of commission, I can take at most one picture with brand new fully charged batteries and then they are dead, or I would have some comparison pictures. It is my not so expert opinion that there is no significant difference.

TMP link

As a side note I'm using the Antique Walnut Minwax I pointed out in my review to paint my Warhammer Fantasy Empire Army. The Antique Walnut is a really nice darker rich brown color and it works very well on the yellow and burgundy color I'm using as the main colors in my paint scheme. The colors are specifically Vellejo Game Color Sunblast Yellow and Vellejo Model Color Burnt Cadmium Red. Comparing it to the above pictures, it is a little less black than the Strong tone on those Bretonnians in the above picture.

Bought the Strong Tone for my Medievals. Nice effect – doesn't mess up the reds or greens- was wondering if the strong will make my armored figs too brown?
Looks like the dipping method works as well as the painted.

One more thing. I suspect he is just painting it on when painting it on and letting it end up where it ends up, instead of going back and taking off extra in some spots and adding more in some places. If you don't go back and do some 'damage' control brushing definitely won't look any different than the dip. It's just not as messy. Careful brushing I've found ends up looking different than dipping or just slaping it on with a brush.