| Cacique Caribe | 20 Jan 2009 5:33 a.m. PST |
These are the heroscape wall pieces I am talking about: picture
link
picture
picture I bought a bunch of them cheap on ebay and thought I would use as stand-alone walls and as facings for corridor pieces. I know there was someone who suggested splitting them in half, along the middle seam, to create thin facings but, now that I need the information, I can't find the post. I just need to know how to split them easily and safely, without breakage. Any suggestions, or should I just leave them alone if they stand a good risk of breaking in the process? Thanks. CC |
| PJ Parent | 20 Jan 2009 8:01 a.m. PST |
You will tear the plastic if you start trying to split them – the bond they use is generally stronger than the sides of the plastic. If you are set on it I would use a dremel tool with a cutting wheel and cut them just off the seam. |
| PJ Parent | 20 Jan 2009 8:08 a.m. PST |
Now that I'm holding one in my hand I think if you open the bottom up you might be able to tell if you can split them easily or not. It's hard to tell if the two sides will split of if they are heat bonded all the way up. If you are going to use them as facings on foamcore or some such you could also just try smashing one to bits to see how them come apart – if it goes badly you still have the ability to reassemble them onto the wall with a glue gun. |
| Cacique Caribe | 20 Jan 2009 8:17 a.m. PST |
Good idea! I guess a "smash test" on a single piece wouldn't be a bad idea after all. I imagine I will be needing smaller pieces for debris around the ground. CC |
| Lion in the Stars | 21 Jan 2009 11:05 a.m. PST |
A brand-new Xacto blade will take those (or any other plastic model, for that matter) apart in no time if they aren't welded together very well. If they are fully-fused, though, it's easier to break out the dremel. |
| Cacique Caribe | 30 May 2009 7:41 p.m. PST |
Those wall seams are really, really tough: link
link If I'm unable to easily separate the front and back on each piece, I don't see how they will work for me after all. I may have bought them in vain. CC |
| Cacique Caribe | 04 Apr 2010 2:52 a.m. PST |
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| Pole Bitwy PL | 04 Apr 2010 3:49 a.m. PST |
Dan, you should definitely buy some Hirst Arts moulds. You will then be able to cast as many as you want and will fit both 28mm and 15mm. Cheers, Piotr |
| Cacique Caribe | 04 Apr 2010 6:31 a.m. PST |
I'm considering it. Just a bit concerned with dust/mess and weight of the plaster. Dan |
| Pole Bitwy PL | 04 Apr 2010 9:30 a.m. PST |
Not much dust when using very hard dentist plaster. Even less when the glued parts are painted over. As for the mess part, well casting is a bit messy but a large plastic black waste bag will help a lot when cleaning – just roll it all up afterwards… :D
The weight is about the weight of resin or slightly more. Generally the harder the plaster, the heavier it is. I am using both grade 3 and grade 4 dental plaster and grade 4 has a nice rock heft to it. Definitely very nice at least to me.
Read more about casting on TMP at Hirst Arts: link Cheers, Piotr |
| War Monkey | 04 Apr 2010 9:33 a.m. PST |
Dan
If all else fail think about casting them, plant the back half in clay and make a mold with RTV, then you can cast them in plaster, dental plaster, or resin. then you would have all that you would need and then some. Just a thought.
link
Doug
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experiments with using recessed bases for figures with cast-on bases.
