| Cacique Caribe | 13 Aug 2007 9:30 p.m. PST |
This is the reason behind my question: TMP link Considering the near absolute lack of robed Greys, I've considered one of the suggestions offered on that thread and am contemplating adding robes to an existing naked Grey. However, I've never done that and would like some pointers to tutorials or other aids. Any suggestions? Thanks. CC |
| cloudcaptain | 14 Aug 2007 5:45 a.m. PST |
You'll have to dig but there was a topic on this about 6 months to a year ago. |
| Lullabye Skipp | 14 Aug 2007 5:50 a.m. PST |
check out michealangelo… he did robes good.. ;) |
| Lullabye Skipp | 14 Aug 2007 5:51 a.m. PST |
seriously – why not just look for some images of robes you like and go from there – michealangelo always said that he just exposed the pieces from within the marble, just the same or you but with greenstuff… |
| Neotacha | 14 Aug 2007 7:00 a.m. PST |
Look here and scroll down toward the bottom: TMP link |
| Cacique Caribe | 14 Aug 2007 9:57 a.m. PST |
Thanks a million, Neotacha!!! CC |
| S1ND3X | 14 Aug 2007 1:05 p.m. PST |
i have this guy…
link
…entered into the current Hasslefree competition and if he doesn't win i'll be looking for nsome other means to produce him if he helps at all? |
| Judas Iscariot | 14 Aug 2007 4:34 p.m. PST |
Some advice… Do NOT put folds in clothing just to put them there. This is a big problem I have seen with many sculptors. Essex miniatures have this problem. Cloth may be flexible and will drape, but this doesn't mean that it necessarily WILL be draped or folded. This is especially true of linens, which can be stiffer than finer cloth. Have a look at Tom Meier's figures (or most of the Other Ral Partha Sculptors from the 1980s/90s (Julie Guthrie, Dennis Mize, etc…). You will see that unless there is specifically something that is putting some sort of stress on the cloth that they will sculpt it rather straight and flat, with only minor draping and folding at the lines were it transitions from underneath or over something else, or it is the terminal end of the cloth, where gravity is more likely to have an effect upon it. A good rule of thumb, as I have already said… Don't fold it if you don't have to. |
| sekigahara | 15 Aug 2007 2:02 p.m. PST |
And remember to only do MAJOR creases.If you look at real life there are loads and loads of tiny little folds on most clothing. Try doing this on a mini and it will just look cluttered. Pick out the big ones and stay clear of the smaller. Make that area smooth instead.
But do study real life anyway.
Burne Hogarth has done a nice book on wrinkles and foldlines in drawing but it's the same as in real life.To many of them.
I found a manga book on drawing foldlines more useful. The simplified style of manga foldlines is just the right amount for a mini. |
| Judas Iscariot | 15 Aug 2007 6:08 p.m. PST |
Arigato Sekigahara, That is pretty much what I was trying to get across… |
| Cacique Caribe | 15 Aug 2007 8:53 p.m. PST |
Many, many thanks guys! I will try to put your advice to good use in the coming days. CC |
| Cacique Caribe | 22 Aug 2007 9:39 p.m. PST |
For now, I have decapitated an existing robed figure and sculpted a head for it: TMP link CC |
finishes his Temple project by painting the kit he previously assembled.