"Basing with Two-Part Epoxy" Topic

Nice tutorial.

I've used two-part 5-minute epoxy to base my figures forever. But my process is a little different. I glue the model to a base, slotted or solid based. After the glue has dried, I fill in the slotta strip with Milliput; for solid based models I build up around the base with Milliput for a gradual levelling between the model base and the edge of the plastic or wood base. Then I apply epoxy again to the base and pour ballast on for a permanent fix – I don't like white glue as I find the sand rubs off. Sometimes, I also texture the Milliput with sculpting tools if I don't want sand/ballast for groundwork.

Interesting use of epoxy.

To stop the figures falling over you could use a spot of superglue first to tack them down and then use the epoxy.

My regular epoxy comes in two tubes as I have always avoided the syringe style from fear of the nozzle becoming stuck up and not being able to get any of the glue out!

Thanks for posting.

It's always possible but if you are careful the syringe doesn't get stuck since the epoxy doesn't set until the two sides are mixed. With just a little care, that can't happen.

One thing I have done in the past is sprinkle a little basing sand on the base when the figures are in position for some texturing (obviously when the glue is still tacky).

To stop the figures falling over you could use a spot of superglue first to tack them down and then use the epoxy.

Yes, but it makes it a lot harder to spread the epoxy.

A good coat of PVA can do a similar job, but easier.

Weaker, though, and shrinks as it dries. Susceptible to moisture damage.

Good tutorial. I use 5 minute epoxy for most of my gluing onto bases. Many times it is plastic figures to metal stands. All the types I've used seem to work equally well. I don't use the epoxy to make the base uniform and hide the figure bases, because then I can use less of the smelly stuff, but it does take another step to get the white glue on (and sometimes two layers to get it high enough.)
Bill

What if you want to rebase?

What if you want to rebase?

Beats me, haven't had to (yet).

Epoxy is as permanent as you can get it, so give up on rebasing.

This is probably why some gamers base with PVA (white glue); if you drop a base the figure may pop loose sometimes, requiring occasional re-gluing … but on the other hand that's a plus if you might WANT the figure to pop off some day so you can rebase it.

Nice tutorial.

You can get two-part epoxy in seperate tubes. I find these a lot easier to handle than the two-tubes-one-plunger design, especially when I want to work with small amounts of the stuff.

I often rebase and take apart figures that have been glued with epoxy. I just took apart a 28mm four wheeled freight wagon, a big heavy thing with spoked wheels.

Epoxy isn't soluble in water, but soaking dried epoxy in water will weaken its bond with whatever it's holding together. Soak in room temperature tap water over night. You should be able to pull or pry things apart, then scrape the rest of the epoxy off with a knife or your thumbnail.

Acrylic gel medium.

I suggest mixing some filler with the epoxy before applying it to the base. Sand, sawdust, corn meal, flour, almost anything that is fine and granular. This will make the epoxy go further and provide some texture to the epoxy after it sets. Don't add TOO much filler or it will interfere with the adhesive ability of the epoxy and the figures won't be secure. I add just enough to thicken it slightly.

PVA will generate acid that will attack metal over time and really needs at least one absorbent surface to work properly. I really like PVA but not for basing figures.

I used to use epoxy glue but now tend to use epoxy putty as it is easier to work with, it can both hold a figure and blend it in. Fine for 28mm figures but for 6mm this looks like a promising method.

The epoxy glue is still there in the toolbox as it is pretty much the ultima ratio regum of glues.

klingsor, what kind of epoxy putty are you using?

I used to attach things with Kneadatite puttty ("green stuff") but found that sooner or later the items would pop loose. At that point I can use the hardened putty as a moulded gap filler between the two pieces, and get a very strong bond with epoxy or superglue, but by itself doesn't hold permanently.

wood putty/filler?

Seems a bit expensive way to stick a model on a base. I just use white wood glue (sets rock hard) and sand and have yet to have a model come loose, its also thick so you can blend in the figures mound.

Epoxy is nuts. Rebasing is then impossible. White glue gets brittle with age. I use tacky glue. It sticks as good as white glue and keeps its plasicity. Relatively easy to remove figs if you do someday need to rebase.

If you ever want to rebase these figures, you'll regret using epoxy. This is the last thing that I would ever use to attach figures to their bases.

For 15mm, I use thick CA glue to affix the mini to the base. After the glue has set, I use a mixture of brown paint, white glue, and papier mache to build up around the base of the minis. While the paint mixture is still wet, I add small stones, clumps of bushes, and flocking.

For 25mm and larger, I use CA glue to affix the mini, then use Apoxie sculpt (a relatively inexpensive two-part epoxy putty) to build up the base. Then I do the same thing with the paint mixture, flocking, etc. that I do with 15mm.

The epoxy putty I have been using is plain old fashioned Milliput, the ordinary cheap yellowish sort I can buy down the street in my local model shop. Most recently I have been using it to even off and lock down the metal bases of figures attached to round bases with a drop of superglue. I am rubbish with superglue so I have to use something thick like Milliput for slot-a-base figures as well and it is handy for filling the little holes in left at the ends of the tab.

Epoxy is not good with flexible things, I have had figures pop off the Gale Force 9 rubber magnetised bases, the epoxy is still solid and attached to the figure but not the base and yes, I did wash both base and figure thoroughly. It is one of the things that has put me off using them, that expense, their ragged appearance and a likely move to figure cases for storage.

Lots of really useful and interesting ideas here.

To avoid the weakness of PVA with metal figures I use PVA with a touch of green paint mixed in but then (and this is the clever bit) put superglue on the figure bases.

Superglue reacts with water, which is why you stick your fingers together easier than the thing you are trying to fix. Squelching the base into the PVA gives you Super PVA glue.

I leave it a minute for the SG to go off, then push the base with the still wet PVA through my flock/scatter – sliding it.

I shake off the 'Absolutely too much' (gently!) until its 2-3mm high or so, then leave 24 hours. Shake off the excess, then leave a bit longer before varnishing, which hardens the top of the flock.

If the figure does come off it leaves a relatively clean 'pothole'. its easy to put a drop of SG in and remount the figure. Its usually the Superglue/figure that has separated, not the PVA.