| Mako11 | 13 Jun 2016 9:12 a.m. PST |
Don't know why you really need the tubing. Gluing a magnet to the end with epoxy should work just fine, in many cases, |
 Editor in Chief Bill   | 13 Jun 2016 10:20 a.m. PST |
The tubing steadies the model, keeps it from tipping over. Useful with larger/heavier models. |
| tkdguy | 13 Jun 2016 12:54 p.m. PST |
Nice job! I also use those magnets and Litko flight stands. Adding the tube will keep my spaceships more stable. Are the miniatures detachable the way you did this? |
| Editor in Chief Bill | 13 Jun 2016 4:09 p.m. PST |
Detachable from the stands? Yes. |
| TheStarRanger | 14 Jun 2016 5:16 a.m. PST |
I've done something very similar, but the mini would still rotate on the post and would easily change where it was facing. So I used a pliers and crimped the cuff tube just enough so the long magnet would fit but now there is friction so it won't spin. |
Andy Skinner  | 14 Jun 2016 6:08 a.m. PST |
Sorry, I'm still not sure how the tube helps. I guess what I want to know is what it covers. It slides over the peg and the magnet glued to the peg. Does it extend past the magnet on the peg, so that the magnet on the miniature fits into it? In other words, is the magnet on the peg recessed inside the tube? thanks
andy |
| Editor in Chief Bill | 14 Jun 2016 3:18 p.m. PST |
is the magnet on the peg recessed inside the tube? Yes the mini would still rotate on the post and would easily change where it was facing. Yes, this type of stand does not address the 'spinning' issue. Crimping the tube would help. More powerful magnets also help, as long as they are not so strong that they impact each other enough to break. Possibly, putting a little grit or sand into the tube might help? In a future article, I'll show another approach that solves the spinning problem. |
| klingsor | 17 Jun 2016 7:26 a.m. PST |
A simple flat joint between the top of the pole and the magnet is easily broken so the tube makes it much harder to break off the magnet whether superglue or epoxy are used and makes it neater as well, without the tube glue could easily run down the upright. A section of styrene tube would work as well as brass and be easier to cut and possibly easier to glue to the pole though gluing different sorts of plastic together can be all sorts of fun and transparent plastics tend to be brittle and tricky. |
 Doctor X | 17 Jun 2016 11:19 p.m. PST |
Gluing a magnet to the end with epoxy should work just fine, in many cases, I agree. I have large, heavy diecast metal 1/72 planes that are attached with just a magnet to plexi rods that are maybe a foot tall. The planes don't fall off and the stands don't tip over. One magnet on the plane, the other on the end of the rod and you are all set. |
| Leadpusher | 20 Sep 2016 7:51 p.m. PST |
One magnet on the plane, the other on the end of the rod and you are all set. Just make sure of your polarity on the magnets. |
| green dragon | 08 Feb 2022 11:20 a.m. PST |
I've done the same for aircraft as well. It works great for most scales up to 144th (that I've found so far). One change I did make was to use a small steel washer on the models rather than a magnet. That eliminates the issue of polarity. I have also used the telescoping pick up doodads that look like antenna with pivoting magnets on the end. The problem with those is the polarity is never the same from one to the other. The washers eliminated the problem. Thanks for the tip, love the brass tube addition |
