"Stuff It! (In a Box)" Topic

Really? The showcase article for the next several weeks will be how to put stuff in a box?!

Or better, how not to do so, since the game didn't actually fit in the box?

Most labels will not stick on the Sterilite box so I just use a magic marker/sharpie to write on the end what the contents are.

I use these boxes to hold terrain, trees and buildings. They are too deep for 15-28mm miniatures. For those I use collectable card storage boxes -- the 5000 card size. With the dividers, 60mm bases fit. Otherwise I do not put in the dividers.
auction

I'll be curious to see how your Sterilte boxes age. I gave up on them many years ago due to UV embrittlement affecting them after only 2-3 years. In contrast, my old Rubbermaid shoe boxes are still going strong (and flexible) for 30 years.

I buy my games in boxes where they already have a label and hey, guess what, the game actually fits inside it too! awesome!

Nuff said

Depending on what you're storing have you looked at photo album boxes? I've been grabbing them from Mihaels when they have a sale. About 3-4 inches deep.

I use quite a few of those same boxes for my games. No probs so far.

Really? The showcase article for the next several weeks will be how to put stuff in a box?!

First article in a new series, Rob! Enjoy!

I've started using those boxes for figures. They're about the right size for 28mm. Flags are always the challenge.

I use Really Useful Boxes:

link

The do make very handy containers in a variety of sizes. I have even used their collapsable crates as the basis for sci-fi scenery:

link

G.

Using shelf or drawer lining can help minis not slide around if you are not using magnets. Just don't drop the box and it works great! Credit to Jacob for the idea.

Cliff

May I suggest that you be careful with drawer lining material. I have tried that in the past and figures end up sticking to it if they're in the box for very long. This is when they are stored in a horizontal position, lying on the lining.

Unfortunately, companies who make these things are NOTORIOUS for stopping production. Sound familiar???
here's the problem with these things:

If you have PIKE troops, these MAY NOT be tall enough for 28mm so be advised.

However, for all 1/72 trees and buildings, these are PERFECT and we have many of these but here's the rub:

NO ONE MAKES A STORAGE UNIT for the storage boxes.

Get it? Here's whats missing: a shelving unit with a front door so you can stack these these up then close the door then take the whole kitten kaboodle to a con.

Get it? Tackle boxes, shoe boxes, even boxes from Kodak (xray) film. GREAT BOXES that cannot be stacked without some kind of drawer mechanism to put then into AS IF it was a large tackle box.

Now, mind you, METAL figures are going to be a problem, but 1/72 plastics? EASY. No where NEAR as heavy. Also, guys, bear this in mind:

The stair climbing cart is heavy; the dolly you can get on the internet. Its heavy by itself but YES it goes up and down stairs because of the 3-wheel design of it. Google stair climbing hand truck dolly or cart and you'll see what i mean.

WORD

Working on it.

I use the Editor's boxes for storing plasticard (in the hobby room) and sandpaper (in my garage).

I just throw everything into the closet..

Beware, Optional Field, for that way lies madness!

I use the storage boxes for my unpainted lead and terrain. I store all of my painted miniatures in foam from Army Transport. Helps with carrying them to games.

I use *Plano storage boxes. Easily stack-able.
Ive used them for GW's LotR mini's. Generally the '3700' series has worked great (making extra dividers – lets me store 48 per box). Thank God for 3x5 card and white glue.

BUT Ive learned, get The 'Exact' model number. i.e., 3700, 3710 etc. More than once Ive 'grabbed' one in a hurry, 'looked' the same but wasnt. So the dividers did not work w/ those I already owned. (more 3x5 card)

Ive had some for several yrs now, still no 'embrittlement'. But being in the S.E., I make it a point to keep them away from any window for just that reason.

For my larger (2x2 based fig) Dark Age imagi-nation armies, their model 705: 12x12x3 w/ magnetic sheet worked perfect.

I would also add that the measurements listed on the label of Sterilite boxes are not accurate so get a ruler off the shelf of whatever store you are in and measure depth and width yourself before buying.

I used Really Useful Boxes (Staples in the US) for my 28mm Bolt Action armies. Bases either have magnetic steel or a washer so I glued a magnetic sheet on the bottom. (Actually a magnetic heating duct cover (11 x 15)).

Really useful boxes also do a handy insert with 15 sections, each around 6cm square. They fit the 4 litre and 9 litre boxes. I am about to transport my entire collection 500 miles and much of it is now in these boxes. I have added self adhesive steel sheet to the bottom of the compartments so my magnetic bases get some grip. Time will tell whether it has been worth the time and cost.

Late to this, sorry. But as a so-called "Showcase Piece?"

Editor doesn't like throwing things in the box a game comes in because:

"…game boxes these days are often flimsy"

Never experienced that. In fact, I think they're sturdier than ever. Caveat emptor?

"…and the box is never the right size."

Utter tosh … it must have been the right size, otherwise it wouldn't have fit in the first place?

Another vote for Really Useful Boxes. I must have getting on for a hundred of them in various sizes. Very strong and stackable. There's a size for virtually every gaming application.

"Most labels will not stick on the Sterilite box so I just use a magic marker/sharpie to write on the end what the contents are."

Another, less permanent, option is to use Tulip brand Dimensional Fabric Paint. It comes in a multitude of colors in small squeeze bottles, is cheap, and readily available at Walmart or craft stores. Use it to write anything you want on the ends of plastic boxes. Apply it rather thickly as that makes it much easier to remove in the future if needed. Let it dry overnight and it is done.

If you make an error or it gets smeared while wet, make sure you let it dry overnight before removing it. It is very messy and almost impossible to remove completely when wet.

For labeling, I write my label on a 3x5 card, and tape it inside the box (with the text showing through the plastic).