The following answers are from the game's publisher, and hence are "official." If you have any rules questions, please send them to the editor, and we'll work with the publisher to find out the official answers.
A: Yes, the game goes by turns.
A: You may move them in any order desired, and initiate combats in any order as well. Thus you may move all of your units, then do all of your attacks; move a unit then attack with it, move a few units attack with one, move more units and attack with the rest...and so on. Just as long as a unit does not move after it has attacked and no units gets to move or attack twice.
No, a normal unit may move, then attack, but not atack and then move. Once a unit has attacked it is done for that turn.
A: Yes, as large as little old Grunt could hold effectively.
A: The army reference sheet is on the inside of the back cover. It lists all of the stats that are needed for a character and puts them in a working order, simply so first time players have a guide to making their army. It does not pull out, but may easily be photo copied.
A: Only when the unit is first created, (joins the army). Those attributes may be added upon with the gaining of levels.
A: To earn the victory point and get to draw a card, it must merely survive that specific combat. A level may only be gained at the completion of a game, so having multiple victory points can only help your army for future games. This gives the players a reason to want to play that same army again.
A: Correct. We really need to clarrify that one.
A: Yes. That means sending all of your Grunts forward as cannon fodder isn't always a good move, for it can allow the opponents to draw many battle cards.
A: Actually, you do get 1 victory point, no matter what kills it.
A: It merely needs to be large enough to effectively mark its existence and let a unit stand on it. The size would actually need to vary according to the size of figurines the gamers were using. While we recommended 25mm for the game, it is obviously open ended and can be played with any.
Sounds like it would do just fine. I mostly depends on the figurines in use. If a figurine can effectively stand on top of the marker, then it is big enough.
A: Us in our infinite idiocy managed to leave out the description of that one by mistake. A Shield Marker is a marker that may travel with a unit. It represents large shields that the soldiers may hide behind to defend themselves against archer attacks. The marker gives the unit +2 Defense Level against ranged attacks, but once the unit is damaged by such an attack, the marker is assumed destroyed.
A: Yes. Each would simply roll initiative for each turn, which shakes up the order of movement and makes strategies more uncertain. I have seen it played with a set-turn order as well, though not as fun.
A: A general surrender is simply when a player decides the losses he is taking are too great, and he no longer wishes to be attacked by a person. By surrendering to him/her, that player may no longer be a target, for the player in control of the attacking army would then want to force surrenders out of the other players. By simply choosing to surrender, the player may still be able to confront other opponents if it is a multi-player game. Or perhaps he wants to surrender to save the units of his precious army that has been with him for over (X) number of battles.
Conquest is merely when you lose control of your castle, which is mentioned on page 11. Once it is conquered, the player's army is done, his game over. This is another reason a player may chose to surrender, so as to avoid being conquered and remaining in the game. A player does not have to accept a surrender offer, but since castles prove very costly to take, it usually makes sense for the attacker to welcome the surrender.
A: Ideally, the game would end when one player has conquered or forced a surrender out of every other player. However, the reality of time constraints does not always allow it to be played out to this point. Thus when the players deem it time to quit, which would leave the victor as the player who had not surrendered, or at least surrender the least amount of times. We briefly mention this on page 15. And it is possible for there to be no victors. War is like that.
A: No. The castle and city bonuses are already assuming the natural defense advantages of the fortifications, including any high ground.
A: Well, yes, city walls are most definitely High Ground, but that is why the city grants a +1/+2. It surely isn't for the presence of taverns.
Page 19 under important note number 1, "Units in or on a city, castle or fortification marker get +1 added to their attack level and +2 to their defense level. Units invading a castle or city do not recieve this bonus."
Basically, if you are the original owner of the city and have a unit there, it gets the bonus and the foe does not. I know that is rather simplistic, but the original rules were designed to be very simplistic. One of my future pet projects will be the rules for custom designing your city, from the outer walls, to archer towers, militia, traps and more. One of our optional rules already on our Grunt page is for investing money into a city to eventually increase its monetary yield. I think cities will be rather interesting once we have rules for custome design.
A: The players dice to see who gets pick of starting territory (or, if the armies are unbalanced, the low-points army gets to pick first). Or, the player with the weakest starting army may choose to pick last, so as to know exactly who will be next to him. All depends how the gamers want to do it.
A: Yes. There is strategy in the placement. They are safer being further back, but harder to reach from the front lines if a unit seeks the healing at a city. Plus new units will need to march further to become useful.
A: The players simply decide how many total markers they shall start with. The practical number would realistically vary, based upon table space and number of players, as well as point values for the armies. We usually start out with 20 markers of your choice, if playing with new armies.
Yes, saved money can buy additional markers before a game starts, but surely they are more strategically placed if bought when the exact need for them presents itself. Say, a supply marker for a really valuable, but hurt, retreating unit. Or a timely-placed fortification marker, to help an archer hold a key pass (high ground).
A: Only to melee.
A: You only have to confront the one. Multiple attacks may only be used when on the offensive.
A: Correct. That many cards would simply be over powering.
A: Any figure - even another player's, but only if that player OK's it.
A: The old charcter is gone for good. The new one joins the army and enters the game board as all units do, in your city or castle.
A: Yes. It is hard enough fighting new battles if the previous one was costly on your army. Depending on what Recruiting method is used, Grunts can be replaced, but the other units are precious and hard to come by.
A: We typically give a +1 Defense bonus to any unit that is using rocks, trees or whatever to screen itself from an archer.
Last Updates | |
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9 June 1997 | page first published |
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