Help support TMP


"WAB to DBA" Topic


Warhammer: Ancient Battles

11 Posts

All members in good standing are free to post here. Opinions expressed here are solely those of the posters, and have not been cleared with nor are they endorsed by The Miniatures Page.

For more information, see the TMP FAQ.


Back to the Warhammer: Ancient Battles Rules Board

Back to the De Bellis Antiquitatis (DBA) Rules Board


Action Log

11 Jan 2017 10:08 p.m. PST
by Editor in Chief Bill

  • Crossposted to Warhammer: Ancient Battles board

Areas of Interest

Ancients
Medieval
Renaissance
18th Century
Napoleonic

Featured Hobby News Article


Featured Ruleset


Featured Showcase Article

Sumerian Chariots in 6mm

Remember back in 2005, when I promised pictures of those Sumerian chariot stands in 6mm?


Featured Workbench Article

Building the Langton Miniatures Capitana

Personal logo Virtualscratchbuilder Supporting Member of TMP Fezian proves himself a fan of splintered oars, crashing beakheads, and drummers yelling "come'mon, you scurves! The Captain wants to go water skiing, so pull harder!"


827 hits since 21 Jan 2017
©1994-2024 Bill Armintrout
Comments or corrections?

Hobhood214 Mar 2009 7:20 a.m. PST

Probably a FAQ, but I have figures individually based for WAB on 20x20 magnetised bases. Can anyone suggest metal pre-cut DBA sized bases which these could stick to,to make temporary DBA elements?

aecurtis Fezian14 Mar 2009 7:25 a.m. PST

link

Direct or through many retailers.

Allen

mashrewba14 Mar 2009 7:56 a.m. PST

Do big DBA on bases 80 or 120mm wide.

lugal hdan14 Mar 2009 12:32 p.m. PST

I'll second mahrewba – use 80x40mm sabot stands of 4x2 WAB figures to get a nice, dense stand. Then use double 15mm measurements. The games turn out very attractively and play the same way as "normal" 15mm games do.

Sudwind14 Mar 2009 3:05 p.m. PST

You should try to use the 60mm frontage for your bases. That is the size used in the DBA rules….assuming you are going to use these figures for DBA or FOG (which uses DBA basing). The depths of the bases vary and are important for game mechanics.

andyfb14 Mar 2009 3:29 p.m. PST

i'd agree with mahrewba and lugal hdan……use 80x40mm sabot stands of 4x2 WAB figures.

Make the table size 4x4 and a measuring stick making 100 paces = 50mm

Looks far better

Cheers Andy

Sudwind14 Mar 2009 9:29 p.m. PST

Once again,

If you want to play DBA or FOG….and play against others who already have armies….maybe even in tournaments….you should go with 60mm frontages. You will not be able to play games of DBA or FOG with mixed base sizes. The base frontages and depths are an integral part of the game.

tmason15 Mar 2009 4:01 a.m. PST

I am going to second (or third?) the big bases. I have gone with 100mm frontage so I can fit either 5x20mm or 4x25mm bases. Adjust all measurements accordingly.

Hobhood215 Mar 2009 4:27 a.m. PST

Hi all

Thanks for the advice. The use of big bases had occurred to me to get a better 'look' to the game. But what I was really looking for was some info. on where I can get such bases pre-cut…

tmason16 Mar 2009 3:13 a.m. PST

Try litko. I have just received an order from them they will do pretty much any size you like. They make GREAT plastic counters and stuff too.

litkoaero.com

CeruLucifus16 Mar 2009 10:59 a.m. PST

I also base 28mm Warhammer figures on 20mm square bases with sheet magnet on the bottom (I play WHFB currently but never mind). I use standard GW movement trays with a galvanized steel insert to magnetize them.

For 80mm frontage (60mm too) you can get the new GW movement tray kit which is modular and can be made into any size. Or you can make trays completely from scratch (I do this) with .080" sheet styrene and styrene strip for the rails.

For the galvanized steel, it's inexpensive from the hardware store and cuts down easily with tin snips. Steel roofing shingles (often sold as "tin") are convenient sizes, or get a piece of HVAC ducting stock. I grind down the cut edges so they won't be sharp, but that's not actually required if you're inserting the steel into a tray with rails. To prep for paint, there's an oil film you can remove with solvent. I rough the surface too with a wire brush but that might be overkill.

Sorry - only verified members can post on the forums.