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"Element based wargaming and bridge size problems" Topic


De Bellis Antiquitatis (DBA)

20 Posts

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Action Log

07 Jan 2017 6:27 p.m. PST
by Editor in Chief Bill

  • Crossposted to De Bellis Antiquitatis (DBA) board


113 hits since 8 Jan 2017
©1994-2017 Bill Armintrout
Comments or corrections?

Kropotkin30329 Aug 2016 12:32 p.m. PST

Hi all,

Hoping that the collective brain here at TMP can help me with making bridges for my HOTT wargames.I like to make terrain and like to get it to look right proportionally.The trouble is that my HOTT/DBA stands are 60mm wide and that is ridiculously too wide for a bridge at the ground scale of the game. My roads are about half that and it's accepted that units cover a road and it's edges.

Problem is this. When a bridge assault takes place it would seem natural to have one unit on the bridge and another on the far bank defending, but if the element is on a bridge about 7cms across then it looks daft.

So what do people do? Abstract it and have a narrow realistic looking bridge with each element on opposite sides of the bridge until someone wins the combat?Or something else?

Any help appreciated on this somewhat obscure question.

JimDuncanUK29 Aug 2016 12:59 p.m. PST

I make most of my bridges wide enough to take a stand, usually 40mm, for most of my games with 15mm or smaller figures.

In some cases bridges are only wide enough for one or two singly based 28mm figures.

I have some bridges which are quite narrow so I do have to abstract a combat on them regardless of the scale.

VVV reply29 Aug 2016 1:04 p.m. PST

Have the element dangling over the sides of the bridge. It will only be a temporary madness.

gbowen29 Aug 2016 1:08 p.m. PST

Make 2 bridges, an empty one and one with a few figures on it. Make both bridges 1 base width wide. Swap as needed.

Thistledo2 Inactive Member29 Aug 2016 1:33 p.m. PST

Have a realistic looking bridge model. Make a base for it to sit on, one base width wide which has a painting or overhead photo of the bridge, river, riverbanks etc. When troops fight on the bridge remove the model leaving the flat base marking the crossing point. The crossing point will be clearly marked but not interfere with the figure bases. Replace bridge when troops move off the base.

Personal logo The Beast Rampant Supporting Member of TMP29 Aug 2016 1:59 p.m. PST

Have the element dangling over the sides of the bridge. It will only be a temporary madness.

That's been my solution, and I'm happy with it.

jwebster29 Aug 2016 4:21 p.m. PST

You could have the element at the far side of the bridge and use a marker to show exactly where it is.

I agree with you – if you love scenery this is tricky

John

Kropotkin30330 Aug 2016 1:27 a.m. PST

Thanks guys for all your ideas. I think that the tempory madness solution is the one I may go with, but will make my bridges compatable with the road scale and live with the overhang. John I agree with you that terrain should look realistic, but may make the sides of my bridges lower so that the unit on the bridge is not too elevated. Nice idea to use a marker.

Perhaps a flag bearer rushing forward :)Follow me men!

bruntonboy30 Aug 2016 1:31 a.m. PST

Paint up a few singhsinghle figures that can fit on the bridge to indicate "the fight" whilst the main body ( your big elements) stand on the bridge approach and wait their turn. Alternatively have s few elements halved so they fit. My own solution is to ignore it.

mashrewba Inactive Member30 Aug 2016 5:54 a.m. PST

Have a ford instead. Apart from that I go for the "temporary madness" and dangle. My bases are 80mm wide…

Kropotkin30330 Aug 2016 7:20 a.m. PST

80MM bases would sure make for a wide bridge. I guess fords were more common than bridges in the ancient world.

Are you using 28mm figures on those bases Mashrewba?

mashrewba Inactive Member30 Aug 2016 7:40 a.m. PST

28mm for HOTT but I play ECW DBR 15mm on 80mm bases as well.
link

Thomas Thomas Supporting Member of TMP30 Aug 2016 11:42 a.m. PST

I just use bridges that are 60mm wide or thereabouts.

Of course to wide for the ground scale – but that doesn't much matter. Looks fine plenty of bridges were at least 4 men shoulder to shoulder wide (about 8-9 feet?)

tomT

Martin Rapier31 Aug 2016 12:51 a.m. PST

Either just perch the elements on the bridge temporarily, or park the attacking element at one end.

I 've done both, and they both work fine.

Don't, whatever you do, use daft super wide bridges. I've done that too and it looks awful.

jwebster31 Aug 2016 8:33 a.m. PST


Paint up a few singhsinghle figures that can fit on the bridge to indicate "the fight" whilst the main body ( your big elements) stand on the bridge approach and wait their turn. Alternatively have s few elements halved so they fit. My own solution is to ignore it.

I mentioned a marker and was thinking of an ordinary marker or something.

Painting a small base of figures that would fit on bridges and act as a "marker" would be fun – an opportunity to make a mini diorama …..

John

VALIS1302 Sep 2016 3:28 a.m. PST

I second the ford option.

mashrewba Inactive Member02 Sep 2016 9:23 a.m. PST

Option 2 -field an army of fliers.

Kropotkin30304 Sep 2016 4:05 a.m. PST

Thanks guys. Just redoing my river terrain and think I'll do fords and some proportional bridges. As always good advice.

Bindon Blood04 Sep 2016 4:20 a.m. PST

how about making 2 bridges, one that looks right for you and a second, extra wide one for when there is a unit on it?

maverick290906 Sep 2016 7:39 p.m. PST

I can't imagine a 60mm wide bridge looks out of place when using 28mm figures. I'd actually argue in reality a bridge to scale with 28mm figures would be quite large (which is why I don't play 28mm, just too unrealistic). I think Battlefront (makers of Flames of War) bridges are roughly 60mm across, you could give those a shot.

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