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"small movement trays " Topic

De Bellis Magistrorum Militum

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Personal logo optional field Supporting Member of TMP08 May 2012 11:51 a.m. PST

I had the great idea a while ago of basing my skirmish figures on 20mm squares and then using 40mm and 60mm frontage movement trays so they could double in DBx games.

The problem being that no one seems to make movement trays that small. Any suggestions?

GoneNow08 May 2012 12:11 p.m. PST

GW's modular trays?

Ran The Cid08 May 2012 12:16 p.m. PST

Shogun makes metal trays in 60mm x 40mm and 40mm x 60mm. Have your pick of flat or flanged. I prefer the flanged – gives you something to hold on to when picking up the tray.

Yesthatphil08 May 2012 12:16 p.m. PST

For an effect a lot less ugly than movement trays I have cut metal shims to go under the figures and put magnabase under the their bases.

I have used this to make 2 single DB bases into a double base etc.

I found you need to have a front edge on the shim, so for a double base for e.g. a 15mm scale Bw(X) cut a 40x45 metal shim and folded the front 5mm up. You need to get a good sharp bend but it works fine.

Whether this would work with individual figures is another matter … Heavy infantry @ 4 per base would be quite a pain.

Of course, I would just rebase them for battle games or get new ones – but I presume you've based them individually because you prefer them that way. Ah well … I fear I may be of little help

Yesthatphil08 May 2012 12:18 p.m. PST

Well there you go …. Ran The Cid's link takes you to exactly what I made only a lip all round. Excellent, optioonal field – that's what I would recommend.


Crocus08 May 2012 1:04 p.m. PST

I do this myself – MDF bases from ERM, flocked then washed with a watery coat of PVA white glue, sealing them to stop the blutack on the base of each mini sticking only to the flock, not the base underneath and causing the figures to fall off.

It all works very well, nary a mishap: off for a skirmish, on again for the big battles. Mint! However, the bases I plumped for for skirmish are quite large to stop hillside troop collapse, so my "DBx" bases have to be 3" wide (7.5cm approx) for the fellas to fit on. To make this heresy even worse I have deeper bases and more figures per stand, as I think it looks good. This suits me in my solo idyll, but it maybe a consideration for your project.

Personal logo optional field Supporting Member of TMP08 May 2012 10:16 p.m. PST

Thanks for the link Ran. I'll pick some of those up (once I finish painting the requisite amount of lead & plastic).

korsun0 Supporting Member of TMP09 May 2012 3:21 a.m. PST

A big +1 for Shogun, not only are the bases dead accurate, those magnets really stick (i.e. passed the old 28mm-metal-knight-turned-upside-down test) but still easy to slide off the unflanged side.

Ran The Cid09 May 2012 7:06 a.m. PST

I've become a big fan of Shogun* when I started playing Hail Caesar & needed to permanently base units on their trays. Can't beat the pricing and the trays are very well done. Much better than the GW modular trays + sheet metal I was previously using.

*In the interest of full disclosure: Rob at Shogun was nice enough to provide prize support for the Adepticon WAB events which I run.

colgar610 May 2012 12:24 p.m. PST

Another alternative would be to make your own cheap "flanged" trays. I've described how I did this to adapt Warhammer figures for Hordes-of-the-Things here: link

Of course, this method only works if the bases of the models to go on each element are a bit smaller than the element's dimensions; there needs to be a bit of a margin around them.

Mithridates10 May 2012 4:53 p.m. PST


I have done the same using either card or balsa edging on MDF with sand/flock to blend in with the figure's single bases. Handy for running Hail Caesar small skirmishing units of either horse or foot.

colgar611 May 2012 11:16 a.m. PST


Yes, balsa or card would work too. Do you bevel them so that they hold the models in place?

Mithridates11 May 2012 5:06 p.m. PST


As you have done with the sprue I build up the edges and inner 'walling' to about 5mm which works to keep the figures in place. I have added steel 'paper' in the gaps and magnets on the bottoms of bases so figures are reasonably secure.

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