"Magnets: N52 Versus N42" Topic

Another decent test would be to put some metal "head" on the flight stand, and see if a magnet on the plane would bond tightly enough for your purposes. Magnet-to-metal instead of magnet-to-magnet could mean you spend a lot less time keeping track which way is positive.

Interesting idea. Maybe some very small hexnuts or washers? Or does someone out there sell tiny steel disks?

Or, alternately, replace the clear acrylic peg with a steel peg…

For 1/600th scale, N42's should be good for most, if not all models.

They are surprisingly strong.

N52's would work as well, but not sure you need the extra power for them, unless doing big bombers.

Depends upon the metal for the washers, disks, and hexnuts. Some are magnetic, but only marginally so.

I much prefer the two-magnet combo, and with that you've doubled your strength.

I use the same system with two magnets. I've always gone with the stronger magnet as I use 1/300 W.W. II aircraft. I haven't made the jump into the Jet Age yet.

The larger W.W.II bombers do need the stronger magnets.

I use the same 2 magnet system. Filing a flat spot on the bottom of the fuselage the size of the magnet gives a better base to adhere to and keeps the a/c level when mounted on the stand.

For my 1/300th planes, I drill a small divot into the bottom of the plane to fit the magnet.

Doug

Nicely written article. I use the same system. If I forget and prime and/or paint before gluing on the magnet, I simple scrape down to the bare metal with an X-acto knife and then glue the magnet to the bare spot. I've never had trouble with this method.

I use only a single magnet (on the plane), my flight stands are metal homemade jobbies with big staples. My Aeronef will also get magnets, but for them I'm using Brigade's clear plastic flight stands with a little hexnut that fits perfectly onto the peg of them.

One of my reasons for using just a magnet on the plane, is that I'm fumble-fingered enough that by the time I glue the magnet to the plane, I have no idea of what side of the magnet is up anymore. I need to find some plastic tweezers for these things, I use a lot of bad words in the process of gluing.

For some bigger aircraft (and spacecraft for that matter), I put two magnets in tandem on the plane, doubling the surface area that sticks to the base.

Chris

Chris, try putting a piece of paper or tape under the top magnet of your stack. Put a dab of glue or epoxy on the magnet, then set the a/c on top of it. Lift by the paper to remove the magnet and a/c from the stack. You may need to reposition the magnet when you turn the a/c upside down.

try putting a piece of paper or tape under the top magnet of your stack

Clever!

I use the same system. When the magnets are stacked on the flight stand before gluing I scratch the top with a blade or skuff it with a file. If you fumble you then know which side to glue and the glue may get a better grip.

You can use a little steel hex nut between the flight stand and plane to show banking, climbing or diving.

Andrew.

Ah, thanks Cold Steel! And Twig66, that's a good back-up plan! Even if I stick with my system, at least I'll be prepared to switch (and the paper trick might save on cursing).

Here are what my bases/stands look like:
link

Chris

Where do you get the mammoth staples?

Bill, try looking over at your local hardware or big Box store like The Home Despot for small box or finishing nails. They make them in sizes that should work for flight stands, at least they should for 1/300 scale aircraft. Just drill into the plastic base with your pin vise and clip the head off the nail plus a bit extra for the shaft of the flight stand. Epoxy this bit into the flight stand and you should be good to go.

…clip the head off the nail…

Wouldn't the head be useful in this application? Do wire cutters work for clipping?

I found some big ones in the hardware store, used for heavier duty stapling, but regular staples are on some of the bases too. For a sense of scale, the WWI planes in the link were 1/300. I think the bases pretty good for any craft around 1-2" in length, or for anything bigger but lightweight, like plastic or 3D printing.

For some of the bigger planes I now have (1/300 WWI metal bombers and 6" Star Wars Super Star Destroyers), I realized I needed a bigger footprint for balance, so used 1.5" wooden circles as the base and picture hanger thingies, straightened out to form a sideways U, as the stand. I also textured over the bit of the picture hanger glued to the base, as it's pretty noticeable compared to the staples.

By picture hanger, I mean these things (w/o nail):
link

I used different sizes, up to 40 and 50 lb, depending on how tall and hefty I wanted the stand to be. No pictures yet, but I'll work on it this weekend.

What would happen if you mixed up the N52 and N42 magnets? For example, an N42 on the stand and an N52 on the plane. Assuming the polarities were correct, would they still work, but with maybe a somewhat stronger bond? Just curious, 'cause you know they'll get mixed up sooner or later.

StarfuryXL5

What would happen if you mixed up the N52 and N42 magnets? Assuming the polarities were correct, would they still work, but with maybe a somewhat stronger bond?

I believe they would work fine, with a somewhat stronger bond.

Here's a pic of my bigger bases, in progress:

One of my regular homemade air bases is on the right. These bigger bases are getting more texturing, both as weight and to cover up part of the hanger.

Very interesting!

I really appreciate articles like this, as they help save me a lot of time and potential aggravation.
A very well done post, and thanks very much too for the handy tips!
P.S. Would "mixing" the magnets give a bond of medium strength? Less than the N52 but more than the N42? Just idle curiousity, here…

I been doing this for a few years now with my 1/600. Except I use Lego bases and columns.

Excellent article.
Good info in it
AND the comments!
Thanks guys!