Help support TMP


"Magnets: N52 Versus N42" Topic


22 Posts

All members in good standing are free to post here. Opinions expressed here are solely those of the posters, and have not been cleared with nor are they endorsed by The Miniatures Page.

For more information, see the TMP FAQ.


Return to the Magnets: N52 Versus N42 Article


1,771 hits since 20 Jun 2012
©1994-2014 Bill Armintrout
Comments or corrections?

thosmoss20 Jun 2012 7:15 p.m. PST

Another decent test would be to put some metal "head" on the flight stand, and see if a magnet on the plane would bond tightly enough for your purposes. Magnet-to-metal instead of magnet-to-magnet could mean you spend a lot less time keeping track which way is positive.

Personal logo Editor in Chief Bill The Editor of TMP Fezian20 Jun 2012 7:41 p.m. PST

Interesting idea. Maybe some very small hexnuts or washers? Or does someone out there sell tiny steel disks?

Or, alternately, replace the clear acrylic peg with a steel peg…

Mako1121 Jun 2012 2:40 a.m. PST

For 1/600th scale, N42's should be good for most, if not all models.

They are surprisingly strong.

N52's would work as well, but not sure you need the extra power for them, unless doing big bombers.

Depends upon the metal for the washers, disks, and hexnuts. Some are magnetic, but only marginally so.

I much prefer the two-magnet combo, and with that you've doubled your strength.

Oddball21 Jun 2012 4:42 a.m. PST

I use the same system with two magnets. I've always gone with the stronger magnet as I use 1/300 W.W. II aircraft. I haven't made the jump into the Jet Age yet.

The larger W.W.II bombers do need the stronger magnets.

Personal logo Cold Steel Supporting Member of TMP21 Jun 2012 5:08 a.m. PST

I use the same 2 magnet system. Filing a flat spot on the bottom of the fuselage the size of the magnet gives a better base to adhere to and keeps the a/c level when mounted on the stand.

Personal logo elsyrsyn Supporting Member of TMP21 Jun 2012 5:52 a.m. PST

For my 1/300th planes, I drill a small divot into the bottom of the plane to fit the magnet.

Doug

GuruDave21 Jun 2012 9:09 a.m. PST

Nicely written article. I use the same system. If I forget and prime and/or paint before gluing on the magnet, I simple scrape down to the bare metal with an X-acto knife and then glue the magnet to the bare spot. I've never had trouble with this method.

boy wundyr x Supporting Member of TMP21 Jun 2012 2:35 p.m. PST

I use only a single magnet (on the plane), my flight stands are metal homemade jobbies with big staples. My Aeronef will also get magnets, but for them I'm using Brigade's clear plastic flight stands with a little hexnut that fits perfectly onto the peg of them.

One of my reasons for using just a magnet on the plane, is that I'm fumble-fingered enough that by the time I glue the magnet to the plane, I have no idea of what side of the magnet is up anymore. I need to find some plastic tweezers for these things, I use a lot of bad words in the process of gluing.

For some bigger aircraft (and spacecraft for that matter), I put two magnets in tandem on the plane, doubling the surface area that sticks to the base.

Chris

Personal logo Cold Steel Supporting Member of TMP21 Jun 2012 3:06 p.m. PST

Chris, try putting a piece of paper or tape under the top magnet of your stack. Put a dab of glue or epoxy on the magnet, then set the a/c on top of it. Lift by the paper to remove the magnet and a/c from the stack. You may need to reposition the magnet when you turn the a/c upside down.

Personal logo Editor in Chief Bill The Editor of TMP Fezian21 Jun 2012 4:21 p.m. PST

try putting a piece of paper or tape under the top magnet of your stack

Clever!

Twig6621 Jun 2012 5:00 p.m. PST

I use the same system. When the magnets are stacked on the flight stand before gluing I scratch the top with a blade or skuff it with a file. If you fumble you then know which side to glue and the glue may get a better grip.

You can use a little steel hex nut between the flight stand and plane to show banking, climbing or diving.

Andrew.

boy wundyr x Supporting Member of TMP22 Jun 2012 7:36 a.m. PST

Ah, thanks Cold Steel! And Twig66, that's a good back-up plan! Even if I stick with my system, at least I'll be prepared to switch (and the paper trick might save on cursing).

Here are what my bases/stands look like:
link

Chris

Personal logo Editor in Chief Bill The Editor of TMP Fezian22 Jun 2012 9:59 a.m. PST

Where do you get the mammoth staples?

Tom Bryant Supporting Member of TMP22 Jun 2012 8:34 p.m. PST

Bill, try looking over at your local hardware or big Box store like The Home Despot for small box or finishing nails. They make them in sizes that should work for flight stands, at least they should for 1/300 scale aircraft. Just drill into the plastic base with your pin vise and clip the head off the nail plus a bit extra for the shaft of the flight stand. Epoxy this bit into the flight stand and you should be good to go.

Personal logo Editor in Chief Bill The Editor of TMP Fezian23 Jun 2012 6:21 a.m. PST

…clip the head off the nail…

Wouldn't the head be useful in this application? Do wire cutters work for clipping?

boy wundyr x Supporting Member of TMP23 Jun 2012 7:16 a.m. PST

I found some big ones in the hardware store, used for heavier duty stapling, but regular staples are on some of the bases too. For a sense of scale, the WWI planes in the link were 1/300. I think the bases pretty good for any craft around 1-2" in length, or for anything bigger but lightweight, like plastic or 3D printing.

For some of the bigger planes I now have (1/300 WWI metal bombers and 6" Star Wars Super Star Destroyers), I realized I needed a bigger footprint for balance, so used 1.5" wooden circles as the base and picture hanger thingies, straightened out to form a sideways U, as the stand. I also textured over the bit of the picture hanger glued to the base, as it's pretty noticeable compared to the staples.

By picture hanger, I mean these things (w/o nail):
link

I used different sizes, up to 40 and 50 lb, depending on how tall and hefty I wanted the stand to be. No pictures yet, but I'll work on it this weekend.

Personal logo StarfuryXL5 Supporting Member of TMP24 Jun 2012 10:05 p.m. PST

What would happen if you mixed up the N52 and N42 magnets? For example, an N42 on the stand and an N52 on the plane. Assuming the polarities were correct, would they still work, but with maybe a somewhat stronger bond? Just curious, 'cause you know they'll get mixed up sooner or later.


StarfuryXL5

Personal logo Editor in Chief Bill The Editor of TMP Fezian25 Jun 2012 3:02 a.m. PST

What would happen if you mixed up the N52 and N42 magnets? Assuming the polarities were correct, would they still work, but with maybe a somewhat stronger bond?

I believe they would work fine, with a somewhat stronger bond.

boy wundyr x Supporting Member of TMP25 Jun 2012 1:39 p.m. PST

Here's a pic of my bigger bases, in progress:

picture

One of my regular homemade air bases is on the right. These bigger bases are getting more texturing, both as weight and to cover up part of the hanger.

Personal logo Editor in Chief Bill The Editor of TMP Fezian26 Jun 2012 8:48 p.m. PST

Very interesting!

Personal logo Dasher Supporting Member of TMP30 Aug 2012 7:14 a.m. PST

I really appreciate articles like this, as they help save me a lot of time and potential aggravation.
A very well done post, and thanks very much too for the handy tips!
P.S. Would "mixing" the magnets give a bond of medium strength? Less than the N52 but more than the N42? Just idle curiousity, here…

Canuckistan Commander06 Sep 2012 6:43 p.m. PST

I been doing this for a few years now with my 1/600. Except I use Lego bases and columns.

Sorry - only trusted members can post on the forums.