"How Do You Base Your Trees?" Topic

If I had any, they would be individually bassed.

Fisherman, eh?

Mix of one and two.
Started out with groups of trees on bases but then realized having a selection of singles for the sides of hills, dotting in hedgerows or villages or making orchards would be a Good Thing.

Mounted in small groups on a single base.

That way I can push several bases togther to make a bigger section.

Mixture. Most of my 28mm trees are individually based while most of my 15mm trees are in groups. Nothing but green felt/paper for areas of trees is just wrong. You got to see the trees to talk to them!

A mixture.

In 3s: the magic number.

Small groups or individually (6mm)

A mix of several styles for different scales. Mostly I base now on old CDs and mark the edges of the woods with darker green ground cover.
VR
James Mattes

I have tried most methods …

These days I mount individually on hefty 2p coins. My next dedicated terrain project will be an Ardennes 15mm board on which I plan to use 2p coins and magnetic basing for the many trees so I get even faster layout and few knock-overs …

I can't wait to get started.

Phil
pbeyecandy.wordpress.com

Single mounted for 28mm on square bases.

I do a combo of the first three. I don't do,
but am attracted to, the following ideas:
1) on a large base, put very dense clusters of impassable trees and foliage only in the very center leaving wide clear spaces around the edges. Figures anywhere on the base are "in the woods" defined by those outer and largely clear, but lightly landscaped edges. And
2) on a large base, and I've actually seen these a few times over the years, only the outer edges, in a single layer, has trees stuck on leaving the interior entirely hollow. There are dowels at the correct spots over which a base of "canopy" is placed. This canopy is constructed to appear as tree tops only – no trunks are modeled up here, just dense patches of foliage. Remove the lid, as it were, to reveal the hollow wherein troops are placed.

I think I prefer the second way best -certainly more expensive and time consuming to build but may be more aesthetically alluring.

Painted oval to show the forest footprint with individually based trees that can be moved out of the way

Working with small railway trees suitable for 15mm, they are based on 1p pieces . In a game they stand on a suitable piece of dark textured irregularly shaped green. The trees can therefor be moved as any troops pass through them.

no bases, push pins with a small straw glued to it and some home made trees, some small arborvitae cuttings inserted into straw.

I didn't vote other and haven't done this yet, but am thinking of making some hills or low rises with some trees permanently mounted. Would that be a separate choice or does is it the same as large bases?

I'm mostly 1, a little bit of 2.
--
Tim

Every which way. You name it, I have based them that way.

I've gone to mount 2-4 trees along the edge of an old CD. Then I paint and flock the rest of the CD, leaving it open. I can push several together for large wooded areas, but this also allows me to put bases of minis among them without having to push the trees apart or remove any.

We use the Woodland Scenic plastic tree kits. We base about 50% of them, while the rest have a needle inserted into the trunk, which allows them to be poked into polysterene terrain, thus doing away with the need for a base.

If you're interested, the needles are heated up in a candle-flame and are then pushed, eye-end first, into the bottom of the trunk. The hot needle melts its way into the plastic and then sets fast as it cools. These trees can then be stored simply by poking them into a spare slab of polystyrene.

Usually multiple trees on each base as they dont fall over as easily as single based. Alot of three per base but also have several larger bases with 5-10 per base.

In games where trees are used to represent a wooded area, I put down a green cloth to signify the area of the woods. Trees are placed within the green area to add to the visual presentation. Where 1 tree = 1 tree then I put them out that way, with a marker in case a tree gets bumped.

Individual trees are mounted on flat washers, multiple trees are mounted on a 1/8" plastic base. The multiples are generally 3 or 4 with some being as large as 8 trees.

For 28mm skirmish I base them singly, generally on a 30-40mm washer. Although a lot of my pine trees are clumped together 2-3 on the same base.

Smaller scales, in practice we're talking 15mm, I base in small groups. I place them on a piece of flocked felt indicating the borders of the forest and move them around to leave room for the minis.

I base individually, and then use green felt or something similar to mark an area. That way I can move trees out of the way for miniatures to move, sight in, &c., but still have the feeling of a wooded area.

I base individually, and then use green felt or something similar to mark an area. That way I can move trees out of the way for miniatures to move, sight in, &c., but still have the feeling of a wooded area.

Whatever method this is, I do this too.

Since I play mostly 28-30 mm scale (D&D and WARMACHINE/HORDES) I base my trees individually, but I use Continental Air Force's method for denoting dense growths of trees that block line of sight through them.

Andy Welkley
"Your Phrendlee Hevy Phyzx T-chrr"

I love Karl Windle's way of doing trees over at burningmyfingers.blogspot.com

I got a ton of trees and based them on old hex bases and it really works out well.

For dense trees, I will make stand up paper trees in 6" stands and then scatter them in the general area. This allows you to fill up an area, but still fit minis in it. If you only count crossing the vertical part of the stands as inhibiting line of fire, then you can end up with a nice "random" arrangement where some shots in the woods are really hard and others are not blocked at all.

It's kind of a balance between form and function. They don't look as good as model trees, but the work with the minis much better.

I have also used Litko's nuclear blast makers for trees (painting the column as bark and flocking the cloud). This gives you decent looking tree that you can move up against and even climb in.

I'll have a mdf board that is based, and magnets stuck on it, then a peice of metal on the base of the tree and I kust plonk them on nice and simple

Small bases and large forest sections.

I used to use single trees from Scenic Express. Now I use the woods kits from Architects of War, and I am really happy with them.

I used to use clumps of lichen for 'trees', but it doesn't age well. I went to a minimalist look by using patches of green felt to show the outlines of woods then use the individual trees to create the 3d look of forest. It has the advantage of being easily able to move the trees aside to accomodate the figures.