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"1:72 Plastics Based on Coins or Washers - Which Glue?" Topic


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946 hits since 15 Sep 2011
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Frederick Supporting Member of TMP15 Sep 2011 5:31 a.m. PST

Superglue for the fig, white glue for the flocking

Rebelyell200615 Sep 2011 6:10 a.m. PST

It depends on the media in question. For plastic-on-plastic, I'll stick with Testors plastic cememnt.

And of course if I read the topic, I'd say that I would use a two-part epoxy or just superglue.

The Beast Rampant15 Sep 2011 6:19 a.m. PST

The media is the bendy plastic every 1/72 mini I ever saw was made of, to metal.

The Beast Rampant15 Sep 2011 6:22 a.m. PST

I use Zap. It would probably be more cost-effective and practical to use a cheaper resin-based glue, but I just love to waste Zap-a-Gap. Sometimes I even flock with it.

Who asked this joker15 Sep 2011 6:28 a.m. PST

Loctite All Plastics glue and primer. There is a primer pen for the plastic side and a tube of what looks like CA probably with some minor change. Seems to work on metal. I also use plaster to build up the base and that helps hold the figure on as well.

Omemin15 Sep 2011 6:46 a.m. PST

Goo by Walthers. Great stuff.

Buzzkill15 Sep 2011 7:48 a.m. PST

Used Zap-a-gap for the longest time, just recently switched to Gorilla Glue and seems to work great as well.

Grand Duke Natokina15 Sep 2011 11:06 a.m. PST

If you want them permanently mounted, a cyano-acrylate glue.
If you want them temporary to rebase for a different system later, rubber cement.

Personal logo Flashman14 Supporting Member of TMP15 Sep 2011 3:38 p.m. PST

I voted ZapaGap but I'd be open to a gorilla glue. Super glue does far less for shock inducing drops.

Mako1115 Sep 2011 5:57 p.m. PST

White glue, so they can be rebased, if needed.

Personal logo Jlundberg Supporting Member of TMP15 Sep 2011 6:18 p.m. PST

I use E9000 – a very viscous rubberish glue that sets reasonably slowly, but allows rebasing if required. Stonrger bond than white glue so figures don't pop off if dropped from 6"

myxemail15 Sep 2011 6:26 p.m. PST

Walther's Goo. Rubbery and will last forever, and you can slice it with a sharp blade if you need to rebase.

Mike

brass115 Sep 2011 8:51 p.m. PST

Acrylic tile caulking compound (the kind that comes in a tube, not the stuff you need a caulking gun for).

LT

EvilGinger16 Sep 2011 2:25 a.m. PST

if they are soft plastic I wish you luck as its very difficult to stick to anything with any thing

Personal logo etotheipi Sponsoring Member of TMP18 Sep 2011 3:43 a.m. PST

LocTite Stick'n'Seal Outdoor. It's thick, so it grabs instantly. Dries clear (so it's nice for minor modeling like setting things on fire). No acid, so no white mess.

It's absolutely horrible for gluing plastic to plastic, but plastic to metal to wood to cardboard to foam … love it.

TMPWargamerabbit18 Sep 2011 10:28 p.m. PST

I use "Goop" marine glue from a tube. Rubber like…dries stiff….glues anything. Found in Home Depot or Lowe's in USA. If you wish to remove the figure later….a dull knife can "part" coin and soft plastic figure.

Personal logo 20thmaine Supporting Member of TMP20 Sep 2011 5:22 a.m. PST

if they are soft plastic I wish you luck as its very difficult to stick to anything with any thing

Hmm.

Unless you use UHU – my plastic American colonial wars (cowboys and indians) are soft plastic mounted on metal.

Bostick also works.

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