| Cacique Caribe | 06 Feb 2007 6:16 a.m. PST |
These two drybrush recipes prepared by ElCid1099: For GW Style grey surface (rock/ash) They are listed in order 1st drybrush coat to last drybrush coat. Each successive lighter shade should be drybrushed less heavily than the previous shade. The initial base shade should also be heavily drybrushed (not wet-painted on as a solid base)… For cave terrain, such as Moria: Anita's Charcoal 11086
Americana Deep Midnight Blue DA166 (yes blue – trust me)
Americana Slate Grey DA68
Folk Art Basil Green 645 For GW style brown surface (Earth/Soil): Same as for grey except that base coat (Burnt Umber) is wet painted on as a solid coat. Americana Traditional Burnt Umber DA221
Folk Art Coffee Bean 940
Anita's Safari Taupe 11088
Anita's Sand/Sable 11049 All should be available at Hobby Lobby. CC |
| Goldwyrm | 06 Feb 2007 6:27 a.m. PST |
I've got most of those colors, so I'll give them a try. Thanks. |
| Chris V | 06 Feb 2007 7:23 a.m. PST |
If the first coat for the cave terrain scheme is a heavy drybrush, what is assumed to be the layer underneath? I wouldn't want just a drybrushing over unpainted sand, for instance. Is it assumed you'll have primed it black? |
| Cacique Caribe | 06 Feb 2007 7:52 a.m. PST |
Sorry for not including the priming stage. Yes, it is primed black. For blue/pink foam, I use a brush of black acrylic paint. For other surfaces, spray primer is indicated. CC |
| Cacique Caribe | 06 Feb 2007 1:58 p.m. PST |
In other words, don't waste expensive GW paints just to get the same effect! CC |
| Barks1 | 06 Feb 2007 5:25 p.m. PST |
Blue? I'll have to try that. |
| Cacique Caribe | 06 Feb 2007 7:16 p.m. PST |
Barks1, Believe it or not, it contributes to the darkness effect of caves and ash wastes. This is the effect you get: link CC |
| Cacique Caribe | 06 Feb 2007 7:25 p.m. PST |
Look at the chasm photo here. Lots of blue: link CC |
| elcid1099 | 06 Feb 2007 8:28 p.m. PST |
CC et al, I've been messing with the rock/stone formula and here is my latest tweak for cave terrain, such as Moria: Blue First – Americana Deep Midnight Blue DA166 (lightened with a couple of drops of slate grey – you are aiming for something similar to GW Shadow Grey) Anita's Charcoal 11086 (lightened with a drop of Slate Grey) Americana Slate Grey DA68 Folk Art Basil Green 645 (lightened with about 30% Sand/Sable from below – again this should look similar to GW Rotting Flesh – use very sparingly – a very light drybrush is all that is needed) If you get it right it's a good stand-in for…
GW Shadow Grey
GW Codex Grey
GW Fortress Grey
GW Rotting Flesh In case you are wondering this is the Rock palette used in one of GW's online rock/stone tutorials. It looks pretty good and the blue is hardly noticable in the end but does help get that gloomy effect CC mentioned. |
| Cacique Caribe | 06 Feb 2007 9:20 p.m. PST |
Cid, Thanks for the update. I am done priming my boards and my foam formations and am ready to start drybrushing tomorrow. After work tomorrow I will try to get the paints needed. CC |
| Cacique Caribe | 09 Feb 2007 6:09 p.m. PST |
Ok. I primed the pieces black and, when dry, drybrushed the midnight blue with the few drops of slate grey. I must say, it already looks good. I wonder what the other shades are going to produce. CC |
