"Vallejo Game Colour Vs Model Colour" Topic

OK, someone has prob answered this a thousand times before but what is the difference between these 2 ranges? I am using and appreciating the coverage of the game colour range at the moment but am interested in flesh and horsie browns listed in the model colour range. I will be using them on wargames figures so they will be handled a lot but varnished if that makes any difference.

Game Color is supposed to be more durable for gaming and it comes in less colors. The Model Color is made for modelling and comes in a vast number of colors.

I can't really tell the difference except the game color is a bit thicker (but only so slightly).

The Game Color line basically just mimics the GW paint colors. Model Color is thicker, but requires some vigorous shaking before using in most cases. I use both extensively and have not noticed any durability issues once under varnish.

The Model colour has a lot more pigment, and a different bearing medium. (It also tastes bad…)

I've not had any problems with durability, but find the model colours vastly superior to the game colours.

I use both quite a bit as well, and Aaron sums it up pretty well--the game colors require just a quick shake, and no initial thinning most of the time. Beyond that, the coverage, etc. seem to be the same.

jeff

As above, the Model Colors are thicker and need a good shaking and most recommend diluting with water or blending medium/extender. The Game Colors are copies of GW colors and can be used out of the bottle without thinning (I think they're too thin myself). I really don't like the Game Colors at all…on about half my bottles the coverage is poor and if you do add an extender the coverage gets worse, they're brush killers. Since you're already using them you may already know this…avoid the GC white at all costs! :D

The Model Colors are really good, and if you're concerned about the extra shaking just add a drop or two of Delta's Color Float to each new bottle. The Color Float will slightly dilute the MC and help decrease the shaking time per use.

I can also recommend the Reaper Master Series, which are waaaaay better than the GC and don't require the shaking of the MC.

I've heared there can be some colouring on the Model Colour range when in the sun for too long, but I cannot confirm it myself.

Furthermore, I don;'t have any problems with both Game & Model colour, but I really hate those bottles…
I just want to stick in my brush and start painting,
not pressing/shaking/pressing and having some airbubbles coming with the paint.

Game Colors are brighter colours compared to Model Colors, which are more earthly and their saturation(?) is lower. They do differ in composition and Model Color is the better one of the two, but I haven't noticed any problems TeutonicTexan mentioned. Well, I have to say I only own just several shades of green, blue, red and yellow and a couple of other paints.

Game Colors are not useless; I use GC basic colours (green, red, yellow and green) to paint my 6mm TYW minis, because of their higher brightness and saturation. That way my small minis stand out and I can apply a dark brown wash without worrying that they would become "flat". Still I use Model Colors for leather, horses, wood etc.

Lordofdane "but I really hate those bottles…"

I love them!! they are great for controlled mixing in a pallette and as i use the kitchen table in the absence of a dedicated painting area they reduce spillage to 0%

It looks like the newyear may bring some flesh and earthy tones from the model colour range. I am painting Parthians at the moment so the bright model colours have been put to good use.