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"advice on scaling" Topic


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260 hits since 26 Sep 2026
©1994-2026 Bill Armintrout
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Personal logo doc mcb Supporting Member of TMP26 Sep 2026 8:19 p.m. PST

I have had trouble getting my casualty figures the right size, and I finally asked GROK for help, which was the smart thing to do. Haven't tested all of these suggestions, but some definitely helped.

Here's a TMP-ready writeup you can paste and tweak. It stays general and doesn't assume any particular app.

Getting AI to respect miniature scale and pose when you start from a photo

If you feed a photo of a painted figure into an image tool and ask for a new pose (casualty, kneeling, on a bigger base, overhead shot, etc.), the model usually ignores hobby scale words. "25mm," "28mm," "heroic 32mm," "50mm base" are flavor text to it. It does not know those are measurements.
What it does understand is relationships inside the picture.
Talk in those terms.

1. Size the figure against the base, not against "25mm."
Name a body measurement and say what fraction of the base it should be.

Standing: "crown of hat to soles is about 70% of the base diameter"

Prone / casualty on a larger round base: "hat-to-boots is about 55% of the circle; modest dirt showing on all sides"

Then add the two mistakes you don't want:

"Not rim-to-rim."
"Not a tiny figure floating in the middle."

That pair of negatives is more reliable than any scale name. Models love to either stretch the body to the rim or shrink it into a cameo.

2. Say what must stay visible around the figure.
"Modest ring of textured dirt, grit, and a few tufts on every side of the body."

If you don't lock the margin, the next version will eat the base or leave a huge empty disc.

3. Name the camera like a photographer, not like a rules writer.

"Photograph taken straight from above, true top-down, no perspective tilt."

"Same distance and framing as a product shot of one round base on a table."

"Overhead" alone often still gives you a 3/4 view.

4. Change pose in small bundles.
One pass that asks for "lying dead, gun dropped, hat off, bent leg, bullet hole, different base" will keep the original standing pose and only re-skin it. Work in steps:

New viewpoint + new pose, same paint and sculpt.
Hands, weapon, head.
Hat, legs, small damage.

Keep repeating what must not change: paint colors, sculpt style, base size in the frame, lighting.

5. Describe the miniature as a painted miniature.
"Photorealistic photo of a painted 25mm metal/plastic wargame figure" beats "a cowboy lying in the dirt." Otherwise you get a real person, a statue, or a digital illustration. List the actual colors from your photo (tan hat, cream shirt, rust-brown trousers, dark gun belt) so it copies your paint job.

6. For casualty poses, ask for asymmetry.
A straight, centered body on its back looks like a toy on a coaster.

Useful nudges:

one knee bent
hat half off or beside the head
weapon on the ground next to the hand, not welded in the fist
head turned partway toward the camera
a small painted wound if you want it, not a gore movie

7. A compact prompt pattern that travels well
You can reuse something like this:

Overhead photograph of this same painted miniature, now [pose], on a [size] round [dirt/grass] base. From [hat/helmet] to boots the figure is about [X]% of the base diameter. Modest [terrain] margin on all sides — not rim-to-rim, not a tiny figure in the center. Keep the same paint job: [3–6 color notes from the photo]. Camera is directly above. Looks like a real tabletop photo.
Swap in your fraction. 50–60% of the disc is a good starting point for a 25–28mm human laid on a 50mm round. Tighter than that and it looks like a token; looser and it looks lost.
8. Check the first result for three things only

Does the body fill the intended share of the circle?
Is there terrain around all four sides of the figure?
Did the paint and sculpt survive the pose change?

If those three are wrong, fix them before you chase hat-brims and holsters. Scale and framing collapse first; details are easy once the figure sits on the base correctly.

That's the generally useful core: don't name the scale, name the fraction of the base, forbid the two failure modes, and change the pose in passes. If you want a shorter version for a TMP "one-minute tip," use sections 1, 2, and 7.

Personal logo doc mcb Supporting Member of TMP27 Sep 2026 2:10 a.m. PST

I am assuming others share my interest in doing casualty markers. But in any case, this is a good example of asking the AI to teach you how to use it better.

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