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"Need Advice For Pin Vises" Topic


12 Posts

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366 hits since 24 May 2026
©1994-2026 Bill Armintrout
Comments or corrections?

Personal logo Der Alte Fritz Supporting Member of TMP24 May 2026 4:23 p.m. PST

I use a pin vise (really a hand held manual drill) to bore holes through the hands of figures for conversion work such as holding flag poles.

Lately I'm finding that NONE of the pin vises and/or drill bits work. I start twisting the tool to start boring the hole but nothing happens as the bit seems to freeze up and not move.

I think the problem is that the collet on the pin vise is not closed tight enough on the drill bit and that maybe the grip on the drill bit is not tight enough to move the drill when it is in the metal.

I have had this problem with both existing drills / bits as well as brand new out of the packaging pin vises and drill bits.

The ones from Armory and Army Painter don's seem to drill into metal. Is anyone else encountering a similar problem?

Any advise or suggestions?

Will a Dremel Moto Tool work or does the drill spin too fast to hold the bit into the metal hole.

bobspruster Supporting Member of TMP24 May 2026 4:35 p.m. PST

A Dremel variable speed might work, but might be a bit awkward to use, depending on which scale you're working with.
I found that using my Xacto knife with a number 11 blade to start the hole works well for me. Just twist the knife a few turns to make a divot for the bit to set into and go to work.

Col Durnford Supporting Member of TMP24 May 2026 5:05 p.m. PST

Yes, the exacto solution to start the hole.

I also keep some bar soap handy to lube the drill.

Sometimes I need to tighten the drill bit with a pair of pliers.

HMS Exeter Supporting Member of TMP24 May 2026 5:16 p.m. PST

Any powered minidrill is an invitation to disaster.

Consider visiting the Micromark website to seek out a hand drill. Their stuff is usually better than the run of the mill offerings.

Consider replacing your drill bits. If they are seizing up they may have gone dull.

T Corret Supporting Member of TMP24 May 2026 8:34 p.m. PST

As a truly final last resort, you could use a strip of garnet paper in both interior sides of the collet to remove some metal and allow the jaws to close more tightly.

Zephyr124 May 2026 10:02 p.m. PST

Sometimes the pin vises you get are just plain -bleep-, even if they look top notch.
One I ordered from Amazon was extremely shoddy (made in China, it fell apart after a few uses), the extra included drill bits weren't even sharpened(!), but the one redeeming item in the order was the set of micro drill bits which are very useful (they are very sharp and drill great (though I managed to break two of them – but that was my fault) If you need starter holes, that's what I use, followed up by a larger bit.
The second pin vise I bought is working really well as a replacement for the two 30+ year old pv's I had wear out on me…
(Sorry, can't remember the brand names, though the good one is shiny gold and silver (also comes in blue metallic… ;-)

Personal logo Dal Gavan Supporting Member of TMP24 May 2026 11:47 p.m. PST

Zephyr1 gave a good summary of the possible problems, Jim. A couple of suggestions:

1. Make a pilot dimple with a larger-sized sewing needle- eg a darning needle. Clamp it in the pin vice, to save punctures in your thumbs and fingers, first. Make the dimple wide enough to accept the point of your drill.

2. Do you sharpen your bits? If so, instead of trying for an acute point, shape it for 45° to 60°. See link

3. Use less downward pressure on the bit. Quite often too-heavy feed pressure can cause the bit tip to clamp. Apply just enough for the bit tip to scarf and then increase pressure until the bit starts doing its job.

4. If the collet is the right size and the bit still slips, use a file or sanding stick to roughen the upper shank a bit, so the collet can bite.

BillyNM25 May 2026 1:25 a.m. PST

I use a Dremel, and it has a chuck, not a collet, a much better system. It will drill metal hands for mounting wire spears but drill bits will go blunt so I buy new ones from time yo time – make sure you get good quality bits not cheap Chinese ones. Also, lubrication – I just use have a platic container with water in which I dunk the figure in form time to time, it makes the world of difference in terms of cutting and not sticking.

Alakamassa25 May 2026 5:55 a.m. PST

As a jeweler I use a foot-controlled Fordom flex shaft to do all my drilling. Use high speed and light pressure pulsing the drill in and out of the cut. For drills and pin vises as well as lubricants see Riogrande.com

Louis XIV Supporting Member of TMP25 May 2026 6:18 a.m. PST

I use a Wowstick but a Fanttik can also cut/grind

Striker25 May 2026 10:32 p.m. PST

I've had this happen drilling out planes for magnets. I drill a hole with a smaller bit then go up to the size i need. I've had this happen with power drills at slow speed as well.

jwebster25 May 2026 10:45 p.m. PST

+1 Micromark
+1 sharp drill bits (absolutely not the big sets from Amazon/ebay)
+1 lubrication – I use machine oil. Make sure figure is washed before priming

There's a name for drill bits jamming like that (spalling?), so it's a familiar problem in manufacturing

John

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