"E6000 Permium Contact Adhesive: experiences with it?" Topic

So I watched this YouTube Video which discusses how to use E6000 Premium contact adhesive (glue) on BMC and Armies in Plastic figures. I am dangerously assuming that BMC and Armies in Plastic figures are made of either LDPE or HDPE plastic, and the E6000 Premium glue will stick to them.

Anyone on TMP have personal experience with using E6000 Premium on LDPE/HDPE figures? I jumped (hopefully not the shark -- Duh, duh, DUH!!!) into it, ordering a tube of it off of Amazon, as I have never seen the red tube of it in local stores. If no one has tried it yet, I will report back. I have a few mod's I can use this on, and if it works, it would be amazing!… Cheers!

E6000 will definitely work on "Soft Plastic". The only issue is it takes a long time to dry completely.

I've used E6000 regular glue, for many a year. Love that stuff! Never tried the Premium version yet, though… It's on order from Amazon, so I will have it by next week to try it out.

I have an AFV that I want to add a sitting bipod machine gunner Army Man figure to its top hatch with the Premium glue. I used Hot Glue for this, in a past modification, and that worked superbly, but it was a bit messy.

If I can swap heads, weapons, and perhaps even upper torso's, this would open up many possibilities for fun conversions! Cheers!

Gracias ! Rarely attempted conversions on 54's due the the PITA :/ I'll try this stuff and mebbe be at it again ? <lol>

Update:

I cut off plastic horns on a toy Dragon figure, gluing them in to a different position/angle, using E6000 Premium Contact Adhesive, and… It has amazing sheer strength! I tweaked the horns, more than 72 hours after gluing them (with metal pins, using the Premium Adhesive as filler around the joints), and they felt solid, without any giving, zero movement. Color me impressed!!!

I am now using the E6000 Premium as filler, in place of model putty. It does require 72 hours cure time at room temperature, to achieve full strength, but it is worth the wait.

I have used it to attach steel rods to the plastic Dragon models, to form ribs for Combs (creating models that closely match the 1977 AD&D 1e Monster Manual's images). I even used the E-Glue to merge the PVA-soaked paper, applied to the Comb metal ribs, to blend them into the body, seamlessly (after the PVA Glue fully dried, of course).

The E-Glue takes acrylic paint without issue, or primer. It thickens to a somewhat sculptable paste after five minutes, allowing you to texture it, as desired, such as adding parallel lines to it, if desired. Cheers!

Would it be better than a super glue to connect small metal bits to one another?

I have minis where a hand with a weapon needs to be attached to a wrist. I hate pinning details that are so tiny and delicate, but wondering if the flexibility of E600 would be better than a shock-prone super-glued bond.

Only way to find out, is to test it. My impression is that, yes, it would be better than Super Glue. It develops a skin on its surface fairly quickly, so try applying freshly squeezed glue, with a Q-tip swab, to your parts.

I've found that Super Glue's sheer force weakness makes it a no-go for me. If I glue a figure's bits together, any twisting motion will sheer them away from each other, with minimal effort. The E6000 Premium (E6k Premium) has some flex to it, being more like hard rubber -- not brittle, at all. It is surprisingly strong, but I've not tried it on very small parts yet. I've tried twisting parts glued with E6k Premium, and they did not sheer apart easily. That was 'a breath of fresh air,' for me. ;-)

The E6k Premium (red tube only!) is stronger, it adheres to HDPE and LDPE plastics like nothing I've tried before. Hot Glue sticks fairly well to the PE plastics, but even that is nowhere near as strong as the E6k Premium. The E6k Premium is a Contact Adhesive: apply it to both parts, wait a few minutes, then press them together, and they will insta-bond. I use it as traditional glue, however, applying it to one piece, then pressing/holding the two together, for 10 minutes, until it cures enough to hold on its own. It works both ways. The insta-bond method is trickier to get the alignment correct, so I avoid that approach. Cheers!