"Advice sought on best adhesive for gluing metal-to-metal" Topic

Advice sought on best adhesive for gluing metal-to-metal. This will be mainly for gluing arms on bodies and putting together a couple of 28mm vehicles. I don't have to have anything that requires super strength – just want something that sets easy and will hold over time.

You're going to get about 1000 different answers. I like gorilla glue super glue. YMMV

If they are larger pieces you may want to consider pinning

hope this helps

The classic response is Epoxy.

But that is not really convenient for small parts.
CA glues (Cyanoacrylate commonly called Super Glue) are great for small things and very convenient, especially with an accelerant. But most cure very hard and brittle, so longevity can be an issue. Look into the combo of Baking Soda and CA glue. Makes a good filler, and the aggregate makes the CA more flexible, so longer lasting. search for a video on how to use it.

I still prefer the ease of using Walther's Goo, found in model railroading shops in the US, and on Walther's website.
With that being said, the OP says some of the need is for gluing figures together. For arms and heads, I would use a super glue. For attaching a torso or a whole figure to a horse, Goo.
When I built 15mm metal tanks, I glued the tracks on with Goo first. Allowed me time to position the pieces. After the Goo cured, I then when back and added two part epoxy underneath the tank hull to fully lock on the treads. That method has made my tanks gamer proof

Sinbad Glue

sinbadglue.net

This will hold ANYTHING together whether large or small.

I once glued a large 40K Bloodthirster (all metal) together including massive wings. Drop it on a hardwood floor and nothing came apart!

Since then have found nothing even close.

Kim

Surface prep might be just as important as the type of glue

Superglue can get brittle

Nowadays I pin metal figures as I really hate repairing figures after painting. It's easier than you might think. Use brass pins (bend easily if you don't get the holes completely lined up) and a pin drill

John

You can also crosshatch the flat surfaces to be glued with a sharp hobby knife. This allows the glue/epoxy to "grab" better (sanding the surfaces to roughen them up isn't as effective.)

My go to is Loctite super gel.

Two part epoxy resin is hard to beat. But for practical use, superglue is fine. I just beef up The joints with a small ball of blue tak first.

Does anyone have experience using J B Weld?

If the spots that are going to be glued together are smooth, then I sandpaper the areas where glue is going to be applied before super-gluing them together because a rough surface helps hold everything in place better. As for my super glue of choice, that would be Gorilla Super Glue.

randolph2243

J B Weld is a whole family of products.
jbweld.com

All of there Epoxy product are very good, I have worked with them for over 30 years (man! I am old).

There CA glue "SuperWeld™ Instant Adhesive", I have not worked with yet, but hear many good reports. I look for it is stores, but not of the shelf yet.

Seriously, nothing is really good for flush joints. 🤷 Nothing has a good sheer strength.
If you have a "pin and socket", cyanoacrylate is good. That's superglue, in all its formulations.

The advice to "open up" a material is very wise.

I always sand the surface of plastic and MDF bases before gluing figures to them. The rough surface always makes for a better bond. Gives the adhesive more surface area to cling to.

Is especially helpful when gluing unlike materials like metal to plastic or plastic/metal to MDF.