"1/72 Curtiss P-36" Topic
8 Posts
All members in good standing are free to post here. Opinions expressed here are solely those of the posters, and have not been cleared with nor are they endorsed by The Miniatures Page.
Please avoid recent politics on the forums.
For more information, see the TMP FAQ.
Back to the What I Did This Week Message Board Back to the WWII Aviation Discussion Message Board Back to the Interwar (WWI to WWII) Message Board Back to the Historical Wargaming in General Message Board Back to the Getting Started with WWII Air Combat Message Board Back to the Blogs of War Message Board Back to the 20mm WWII Message Board Back to the 3DPrinting Message Board
Areas of InterestGeneral
World War One
World War Two on the Land
World War Two in the Air
Featured Hobby News Article
Featured Link
Featured Workbench Article Scratch-builders often need basic wood shapes. Here is what is available inexpensively at the dollar store.
Featured Profile Article Our Man in Southern California, Wyatt the Odd  , takes press pass in hand and reports from the Gen Con So Cal convention.
Featured Movie Review
|
Please sign in to your membership account, or, if you are not yet a member, please sign up for your free membership account.
| Anton Ryzbak | 14 Feb 2025 12:01 p.m. PST |
a proper scale model next to the 3d print I downloaded some free STLs in 1/100 scale and enlarged them to 1/72 to see how they worked out. Some of the polygons are visible and they certainly aren't scale model prize winners, for wargaming toys they look pretty good once they are painted up. More here link |
| The H Man | 14 Feb 2025 2:54 p.m. PST |
I'm supposed to be waving a pitchfork, apparently. Only not too high, gotta be careful. I appreciate your sanity. I would stick to the kits. |
 PzGeneral | 14 Feb 2025 5:18 p.m. PST |
Very nice Anton. What printer do you have? I just got a Bambu A1 Mini and I'm loving it  Dave |
| Anton Ryzbak | 14 Feb 2025 9:40 p.m. PST |
PzGeneral, That is exactly what I have. The .02mm hotend works wonders for quality |
| PzGeneral | 15 Feb 2025 7:49 a.m. PST |
Oh yeah. I'm learning to adjust setting to make the prints even better. Tom over at Fat Dragon games has a specialized profile for the A1 Mini. It can be D/Led at Wargames Vault I believe. The learning curve for the Slicer software is NOT as hard as I feared to would be. Print on, Dave |
 deadhead | 15 Feb 2025 9:34 a.m. PST |
Your proper scale model is obviously superior and beautifully made. Is chocolate brown right though? I always thought the Finns favoured black and a very dark green. A Finnish P36 is a rarity, so well done. |
| Anton Ryzbak | 15 Feb 2025 12:56 p.m. PST |
PzGeneral, I will check that info out. I have the great advantage in that my son is a computer engineer and does all the tech wizardry for me, all I have to do is point out which plane I'm looking for. A big breakthrough was printing the model nose-down instead of flat to the print-bed. Deadhead, They were painted flat black but, according to my friend, who is an award-winning "Proper Scale Modeler" (shelves full of trophies from IPMS shows) the paint rapidly faded to a very dark brown/eggplant color. I tried black at first and it was incredibly stark, the eggplant was shockingly hideous so I settled on the very dark brown. The model is darker in person than appears in the above photos, I must learn someday to adjust photos. |
| deadhead | 16 Feb 2025 11:07 a.m. PST |
Tell me about it. With my old 35mm Macrolens film camera (1980s) I desperately tried to avoid mixing light sources. Even with its ring flash, it went wrong. Along came digital, on an SLR, and white balance was only worse, Best ever is my daft phone camera, in even the worst light, and I ask, why did I bother? In the old days, the shine off my most matte figures, the blue tinge to everything, the loss of depth to focus, but now, with a phone camera….these days it is so lazy. Click, reasonable, edit, save, post…. |
|
