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"Can I 3d scan a 28mm master figure and 3d print it?" Topic


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huevans01119 Jan 2025 7:29 a.m. PST

Total novice here. I have been watching 3d resin printing how-to's on YouTube all weekend.

I'm considering starting a small range of skirmish figures and have spoken to a sculptor. Not getting anywhere with any mold makers for lead alloy casting and thought maybe I should simply plan to scan the masters and then 3d print them myself or licence a retailer to do the printing.

Is the scanning part feasible?? – i.e. can a scanner pick up sufficient detail on a small miniature to render a decent print later?

What scanner would I use?

Are there any how-to's I can watch?

Pythagoras19 Jan 2025 8:35 a.m. PST

I do believe there are commercial/industrial grade scanners that can get the detail you want. However, from the reviews I have seen recently, the consumer grade scanners are not there yet. The last video, though, that I seen was about 6 months back.

Phillius Sponsoring Member of TMP19 Jan 2025 11:53 a.m. PST

It's definitely possible.

I have had masters scanned professionally and printed them and the detail has come out nicely (40mm). However, there is some requirement to "tidy up" the image after the scanning process, and I sent mine to be done professionally. Not cheap though.

However, I am waiting on the delivery of a mid-range scanner that in theory should work to a useable degree. But time will tell.

UshCha Supporting Member of TMP19 Jan 2025 12:49 p.m. PST

Would it not be better to pay a digital sculptor to start with. Cuts all the hassle out, and probably more reliable as a digital sculptor will ensure the STL is compatible with the machine you intend to print with.

The H Man19 Jan 2025 3:38 p.m. PST

"Would it not be better to pay a digital sculptor to start with."

No.

The real question is why not just mould and cast it?

I did just see a scanner available for minis. Either bamboo labs (now having issues, see fragility topic), or someone else.

So, they are available.

Good on you for choosing sculpting over programming.

huevans01119 Jan 2025 3:48 p.m. PST

"Would it not be better to pay a digital sculptor to start with."

No.

The real question is why not just mould and cast it?

I did just see a scanner available for minis. Either bamboo labs (now having issues, see fragility topic), or someone else.

So, they are available.

Good on you for choosing sculpting over programming.

The idea sprouted when 1 of my favourite sculptors posted on IG that he was looking for commissions. I've seen some digital sculpting that I quite like – i.e. Reconquer Miniatures medieval Spanish armies.

Actually physical molds was where I went next, but I am having little traction with professional mold makers and then would have to find someone to cast them.

If the sculpts are made into STL's (or the resin eqivalent), I can licence the STL's to a figure printer and not have to worry about shipping chunks of metal from continent to continent (and paying tariffs, etc).

But am open to suggestions from anyone on any of the above!

Personal logo Sgt Slag Supporting Member of TMP19 Jan 2025 8:27 p.m. PST

RTV Silicone molds are relatively easy to make, without damaging the master figures. You can find how-to instructions on the Internet. Such RTV Silicone molds are good for casting around 200-400 figures before they wear out.

After the molds wear out, make another set, and continue casting. These molds are good for gravity casting only, however.

A friend, back in the mid-90's, made bootleg castings of commercial figures he wanted more of. He showed me the original figures he purchased, then he handed me his bootleg castings. They were nearly identical. I do not now, nor then, support bootleg casting, but the quality of such figures, made using RTV Silicone molds, can be quite good, depending upon the sculptor's design (undercuts, etc.).

Whatever you decide, I wish you the best. Cheers!

The H Man19 Jan 2025 10:54 p.m. PST

Not sure about Canada, but can recommend Eureka miniatures in Australia for vulcanised moulding and spin casting metal. Theres one in the us, but I'm not exactly sure what they do.

Also zealot miniatures UK siocast and metal and resin.

Just email them.

Gravity isn't great for high detail, which I suspect your after? Spin, injection or pressure may be better.

I can also recommend quicksil by castaldo. No mess, no fuss. Good for small 1-2 figure moulds, as you need to be fast with it before it cures. Just knead 2 equal sized amoulds of slightly oily putty. Cures in minutes. Check jewelers supply stores (or ask a jeweller for directions).

Andrew Walters20 Jan 2025 11:50 a.m. PST

+1 UshCha

3d scanning is still rough. Yes, the expensive machines are very capable, but you don't just put the figure on the plate and push a button. There's going to be tweaking and that means a learning curve. If you're going to do a lot of it both the machine and the learning will be worthwhile. If you're starting from scratch it will be easier to start with a digital master.

Of course you could pay someone else to do the scanning, but why pay for sculpting and scanning when you can just pay for sculpting?

The other advantage of the 3d model is that once you have paid the artist for the hours to create the first soldier it will be the work of minutes to move an arm and shift the head and you now have a second pose. You can get a lot of reuse out of the digital sculpting and have a lot more figures in your line.

But if this is a small line and something you're doing as much for fun as for making money the deciding factor should be what you think is more fun: vulcanizing rubber molds and spin casting or operating a 3D printer.

For me the deciding factor would be getting multiple poses, along with resin being far cheaper than tin.

Good luck!

Zephyr120 Jan 2025 2:38 p.m. PST

I use a dental spin caster with RTV molds. I get a 95% success rate doing casts, much, much better than gravity casting. In fact, the detail is so good it shows up all the mistakes I made in my sculpting… ;-)

The H Man20 Jan 2025 4:07 p.m. PST

"it will be the work of minutes to move an arm and shift the head and you now have a second pose. You can get a lot of reuse out of the digital sculpting and have a lot more figures in your line."

Exactly the same with proper sculpting.

Infact you can leave off the arms/heads cast some and then sculpt on different arms/heads.

huevans01121 Jan 2025 6:06 a.m. PST

Looking at You Tube videos and am not impressed at all with the quality of scans. As stated, the scans have to be extensively tweaked with a graphics program to look presentable.

huevans01121 Jan 2025 6:07 a.m. PST

I use a dental spin caster with RTV molds. I get a 95% success rate doing casts, much, much better than gravity casting. In fact, the detail is so good it shows up all the mistakes I made in my sculpting… ;-)

Can you post a link of the equipment you use or similar?

Are there instructional videos on YouTube or elsewhere showing how to perform the casting process?

Appreciate the assistance!!

Personal logo Sgt Slag Supporting Member of TMP21 Jan 2025 7:54 a.m. PST

Are there instructional videos on YouTube or elsewhere showing how to perform the casting process?

Search for miniature figure maker tours, or spin casting. I've seen several figure maker tours on YT. There are also videos showing how they make the rubber casting molds, imbedding ball bearings into them, before vulcanizing the molds (hardening them, with the master figures imbedded into them). You will see the rest of the process demonstrated, as well. The casting process is quite simple and easy. It is everything in front of that step which is challenging. Cheers!

Augustus21 Jan 2025 9:27 a.m. PST

Generally, 3D scans will not be printable right off without (a lot usually) some rework to fix micro-sized gaps in the model. Some really expensive scanners or really basic shapes are exceptions.

3D scanning is still hovering around tbe somewhat acceptable range.

Zephyr121 Jan 2025 2:48 p.m. PST

"Can you post a link of the equipment you use or similar?"

I use a Lucas No.750 casting machine. I've modified the casting flask setup to use molds placed in PVC pipe sleeves (I'm currently building multi-part mold forms to economize on RTV usage, about a spoonful per (small) mold, as RTV is very expensive now and I can't afford the wastage I used to do. Those old molds are going to be chopped up into filler.)
If you go this route, you can find used dental spin casters for cheaper than new.
And sorry, I didn't use videos, so I can't help you there. I used books, websites, and trial & error over many years to figure it all out… ;-)

monk2002uk21 Jan 2025 10:10 p.m. PST

Photogrammetry is the alternative to a dedicated 3D scanner. An iPhone or equivalent can be used to take at least 50 photos of a figure from multiple angles. Software stitches the photos into a 3D model. PhotoCatch is an example if you use a Mac computer.

I scratch built a model of Sedd-el-Bahr fort, which featured in the Cape Helles landings during the Gallipoli campaign in 1915. Photogrammetry allowed me to create a 3D printable version.

The more common use for photogrammetry is creating 3D miniatures for a virtual tabletop (VTT) such as Tabletop Simulator.

Robert

The H Man21 Jan 2025 11:44 p.m. PST

Check out the moulding and casting board on TMP.

There are lost of YouTube videos.

I made a spin caster from a hand cranked milk separator. Know a chap who used a washing machine.

Basically some thing that spins, like a motor, with a base plate for the mould to sit on and spin, with another plate, perhaps bolted with wingnuts and a big hole to allow pouring through the centre into the top half of the mould while it's spinning.

Not rocket science. Just molten metal going fast, what could go wrong?

If you've not done any moulding or casting before, perhaps try some basic blocks of silicon first (again quicksil would be a good start as it's easy to use). Either buy metal for casting, or just get some bars of radiator solder to try out.

Plaster moulds are also an option, if you looking at just trying it out, or low numbers with basic detail. Very cheap. Just use oil or petroleum jelly to keep the halves from sticking when making the mould.

Pick up a Prince August kit to try out, perhaps, as it has tools you can use with your own moulds too.

I just think it may be best to know basics before jumping into spending money on heavy equipment, if you have none experience.

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