"Filling casting defects" Topic

I had an Old Glory 15s casting of a Russian Napoleonic artillery team horse from 19th Century Miniatures. One rear leg had a gap about 3/16" long above the hoof. This is not a complaint. It would be easy to miss seeing that when casting or bagging the figure.

Normally, I would have mixed up some two part epoxy putty to fill it. Unfortunately, I hate all the kneading it takes to mix that stuff. So, I tried something new (to me at least).

Gorilla Glue Clear Grip Contact Adhesive appears to me to be a thick version of rubber cement. I may be off base there, but that is my impression. It looks like that. After it dries, I have rubbed it off as I can with rubber cement.

Whatever, I found it to be thick enough that I could fill that gap with it in a jiffy. Easy as pie. I did go back the next day and coat the Gorilla Glue with a thin coat of five minute epoxy cement. I am not too lazy to mix that up. Lots easier than mixing epoxy putty.

So now it is hard. I have painted it and all seems well.

Tom

Thanks for the tip!

I have used UHU glue to create a base between the ends of a horse's leg, and neatened it with Humbrol filler, and got a reasonable result.
Great minds think alike!

However, I found an old horse model soon afterwards which was never going to be used where I could have transplanted the missing section…sigh!

Please help a Yank out here. What is UHU glue?

Its an all propose adhesive and found here in the US.

I am starting to go thru my supply of the yellow "flashe" UHU I brought back from Germany. Where can I find more in the USA?

I sometimes use a water-based wood glue (Titebond) to 'repair' things. It dries to a hard plastic consistency. Broken off rifle? Drill & put in a pieces of wire for the barrel, then 2 or 3 coats of glue to build it up. Once painted, hard to tell the difference. Missing arm or leg? Again wire, then build up coats of glue to bulk and shape it up…

I solder broken figures. If a fragment is missing, I simply solder a piece of tinned copper wire. To restore the relief, I use Green Staff.

I looked up on google and it seems UHU glue is found in the US but is mostly available on Amazon or Ebay. Liquid nails is similar apparently.

I use a soldering iron such as that used for electronic repair along with some paste flux and lead-free tin solder. Creates an instant fix and will strengthen weak connections such as horse legs or human bare ankles. Just be sure to clean off the flux before priming.

I try my best not to make up Miliput or green stuff, as the smallest amount realistically mixable is a massive waste. I only mix some up if there is no alternative. Citadel liquid greenstuff is great for small blemishes and imperfections.

On the subject of UHU glue, it is a clear general purpose craft glue. A distinct, not unpleasant smell. When you use it it forms strings of glue as you pull it away. Definitely not liquid nails/no nails which is a really strong construction adhesive.

Nor is it a PVA branded glue.

I use it to glue figures to tongue depressors for painting. Put an xacto blade between the two and a gentle twist separates them.

One of my favourite all purpose glues.

If you're the sort who paints various monsters and beasties, UHU works great as drool/slaver, and w/a bit of dark red ink not bad as flowing blood either.

A soldering iron is a great tool. But for something as simple as my problem was, I could have it done before my soldering iron would even heat up.

Maybe I have the wrong soldering iron!

Tom