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"Looking to move up in the Airbrush world" Topic
6 Posts
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TSD101 | 02 Jun 2024 11:16 a.m. PST |
I've been using an Iwata HP CS for 7 or 8 years now. I mainly paint 15mm. Lots of WW2 tank camo. While its been a good airbrush, I'm looking to step up my game with something even better. What would you guys consider a "Step up"? I'm looking at a harder & steenbeck new evolution CR plus, but I'm willing for guys with experience to steer me in another direction. |
Dal Gavan ![Supporting Member of TMP Supporting Member of TMP](boards/icons/sp.gif) | 03 Jun 2024 5:53 a.m. PST |
You've already got one of the top line airbrushes, TSD101. About the only "step up" you could make, that I can think of, is one with changeable needle & seat sets, to allow more variation in spray size, and screw-on cups so that you can pick a cup for the amount of paint you need. I don't know what you have available in the US, but Badger, Sparmax, Paasche or Iwata should all have something like the AB134B ( link ) from Runway 13. |
TSD101 | 03 Jun 2024 11:19 a.m. PST |
Well, one of the reasons I was thinking of getting a new airbrush is that I am wondering if mine is simply wearing out after a near decade of use (I got mine gently used). I'm not getting quite the same results as a few years ago, and frequently suffering dry tip issues and clogs. Mostly using hobby airbrush paints and thinned Vallejo. I clean with those tiny pipe brushes and cotton swabs with airbrush cleaner and it LOOKS clean, but I'm wondering if there's paint build up somewhere I cannot see. I'm wondering if its safe to disassemble and run through my ultrasonic cleaner and if that would help. |
Dal Gavan ![Supporting Member of TMP Supporting Member of TMP](boards/icons/sp.gif) | 03 Jun 2024 12:44 p.m. PST |
As long as you don't use an ammonia-based cleaner then it should be fine to give it a bath. There's places where even the thinnest pipe-cleaners and brushes can't go, so there could be some paint clogging in the nozzle. I haven't played with an Iwata, but if there's any 'O' rings used have a look at them, too. They go hard after a while and may not be sealing properly. Paint drying on the tip when using acrylics is just a fact of life, at least for me. I tried all the "fixes" scale model sites suggest- lowering air pressure, thinning the paint more, etc, but it still happened. I tried a retarder once. It worked so well that the paint wouldn't dry at all, and I had to strip it off using IPA. |
TSD101 | 03 Jun 2024 12:52 p.m. PST |
I'm thinking 99% water and a cap full of simple green might do it. Label doesn't list ammonia. |
Dal Gavan ![Supporting Member of TMP Supporting Member of TMP](boards/icons/sp.gif) | 03 Jun 2024 1:01 p.m. PST |
That should do the trick, mate. It might help to give it a half hour soak before arcing up the cleaner. Dried paint can be nearly indestructible- unless it's on a model or a mini. ![frown frown](boards/icons/frown.gif) |
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