"A newbie needs help with metal miniatures" Topic

So I bought some metal miniatures from warlord games. Managed to find a few for a very reasonable price considering the market in my zone…just a box of french regulars, a box of compagnie franche de la marine (no model with a sash in the box, somewhat irritating, but the fact all the models are different makes it impossible to be frustrated) and the smaller highlander box.

Took it out of the box, marveled at it, and then looked deeper into the possible problems.

Main concern is the bends (such as all those bended bayonets and those few bended muskets). I tried to gently bend one back and even without much pressure it started shearing.

So I got to thinking what the heck I am going to do with this? The wood and metal cement that I saw at the hobby store (of which the vendor could not tell me anything) looks like the obvious solution, but I figure that as a humble newbie I should first seek guidance.

I would much appreciate some tips and tricks in dealing with metal miniatures.

Also, I use enamel paints, and while I've always been satisfied with bypassing the primer altogether as far as plastic minis are concerned, I was wondering if someone could tell me if the paint sticks to metal just as well?

Also, I use enamel paints, and while I've always been satisfied with bypassing the primer altogether as far as plastic minis are concerned, I was wondering if someone could tell me if the paint sticks to metal just as well?

I used enamel paints for years. They adhere fine to metal figures. In the last few years though I've switched to acrylics (Coat d'Arms is my preferred brand) and I now use artist's gesso as a primer.

Metal parts such as bayonets and swords, poles, etc., are best replaced with either Green Stuff epoxy, or perhaps a plastic broom bristle (poles). There are pin vise hand drills which have very tiny drill bits (often stored within their handles). These are indispensable for drilling out the hands of miniature figures. They are also incredibly useful for inserting a paper clip pin, to strengthen the bond between parts, such as an upper torso, and a lower torso of a two-part figure.

Figure sculptors use Green Stuff (Kneadatite) epoxy to make additions to metal mini's, making molds from their finished works. It will adhere, strongly, to existing metal bits of a figure -- it is very tacky, so wear nitrile gloves, and water-wet your fingers, and your sculpting tools, to avoid it sticking.

I suggest either Green Stuff epoxy, or JB Weld two-part epoxy, in a tube, for gluing metal bits together. I've had JB Weld last for 20-30 years (nothing lasts forever).

I highly recommend some type of primer for metal figures, prior to any type of paint being applied. I used enamel paints on metal mini's back in the early 1980's, sans primer, and they looked terrible. Granted, I was a complete noob until 10+ years later, for figure painting.

I recommend the least expensive automotive spray primer you can purchase, at a big box store. I've used gray, sandable primer, for almost 30 years. Works superbly, on metal, resin, and plastic figures.

Artist's Gesso is water-based acrylic, intended for priming canvas, not metal. I've used it on metal, resin, and plastic mini's, but I find auto primer to be better, with stronger adhesion. Cheers!

I use gesso with my acrylic paints, started out 44 years ago with what I had with plastic models enamel paint and never used primer. 44 years later they are fine.
As to bits braking off, I don't have many in over 5000 figures but assume every soldier loses equipment.

I've also used enamels without primer for longer than I care to say and had no problems. When it comes to repairs, if they can't be carefully bent back into shape then for me it's either the soldering iron (you need to practise a bit on some scrap figures as there's a knack to it) or drilling out both parts and inserting a steel rod with superglue.

I prime my metal figures with flat black enamel brush on paint and use acrylic paint over that. Been doing this since late 70's. Had no problem covering black with Polly S paints but now some issues with yellows of black primer but rectified when painting a shadow color for yellow first.

For painting, YouTube is your friend.

For muskets, if drilling isn't an option (usually because the drill bit is wider than the part you need to drill), epoxy a piece of thin stiff wire along the musket to join the musket halves (place the wire where it isn't too noticeable.) Once painted, the repair will blend in… ;-)

Go to YouTube painting minis videos. I recommend Perry figures.

Alright, thank for all the answers.

Now more specifically…

The shearing of the musket has only begun. There's a crack that formed while I straightened it, but the musket itself is still holding.

A crack that size makes me think putty is probably "too much" for the repair…is "putty epoxy" that malleable that you can insert it in a small crack on a 28mm miniature's musket?

As for more "liquid like" epoxys, is there a kind of grade that is really needed for repairing metal minis?

I've got a bit of experience with epoxy making fiber glass so at least I know WHAT it is… but can I just get anything for this sort of repair?

I checked the local hobby store and they have the TAMIYA ciment epoxy, should I rather look for something particular at the hardware store?

Need to point out I don't go to walmart, hence one of the recommended epoxys is out of the question.

If you're not going to solder it or drill it out to insert a steel rod I would use the material at the link. It can be worked into the crack, can be smoothed, and sets very hard. I did buy a separate small, multi-LED UV torch as the light in the end of the ‘pen' is not very strong.
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