"What is the best paint for 1/72nd soft plastic figures?" Topic

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If you really want to brush it, you could spray some in a cup.

I have nothing to add, I'm just posting so I can find this thread again. Holy moly, there's a lot of useful information in here!

@miniMo
Now I have to find some in the European Union…

On the other hand, when it comes to the preparation of soft plastic figurines, no one tells me about manufacturing defects, deburring, etc.

In fact I have the impression that soft plastic figurines require a lot more work than lead figurines and they don't even seem more economical than lead figurines if you want to respect official army lists.

@Yellow Admiral
It's true there's a lot of useful information here and it's amazing what special materials are needed for soft plastic figures.

Yes, I am working on some modern plastics from Redbox lately and while the poses and equipment are amazing the flash is off the charts. The only way I know how to deal with it is a brand new scalpal blade and lots of patience. Even then there are usually fine filaments left which I try to flash off with a cigarette lighter.

@MilEFEX3030
If there was only the flash as a problem, it seems that sometimes the riders are not adapted to the horses, has anyone experienced this?

I've found ModPodge or Plasti-Dip to be extremely effective products. My process is as follows:

1. Wash figures.
2. Apply ModPodge or Plasti-Dip as the primer.
3. Paint figures with your choice of acrylic paint.
4. After painting figure apply another coat of MP or PD.
5. Apply your choice of matt varnish.

The whole idea is to sandwich the paint between two layers of protection which makes it less likely to bend. The MP does a very good job of stiffening up the figures. The PD less so. But when it does bend, as we know it will, the paint, even if it flakes, has nowhere to go because it is trapped between two layers of protection which remain in place on the figure. I've had great success with this method on my various brands of soft 1/72 scale ACW figures.

@Blackhorse MP
And where can we find your miracle product?

Paskal,

Well, I'm in the US and ModPodge can be found just about anywhere they have craft supplies. I've bought it at Hobby Lobby, Michael's and Walmart for example. I use the Matte not the Gloss.

Plasti-Dip is listed on the website as being available at ACE Hardware and Advance Auto Parts, although I ordered mine from Amazon. Use the Clear, not any of the colored ones.

And if all else fails, there is always Google.

@Blackhorse MP
Mod Podge Water-Based Glue and Finish?

It seems that since 1976, the American manufacturer Plaid Enterprises has been manufacturing creative DIY products, including Mod Podge.

Mod Podge is a glue, sealant and varnish in one, ideal for decoupage and other craft projects.

With Mod Podge you can glue your project, varnish the surface and at the same time provide a protective layer.

This makes Mod Podge ideal for all sorts of projects. From candle decoration to furniture decoration.

This popular craft product is water-based, dries clear and is available in several finishes.

In addition to a specific finish, you can also choose from special Mod Podge formulas that make your project, for example, dishwasher or weather resistant.

Mod Podge can be combined with almost any material, so let your creativity run wild and see what Mod Podge can do for your (decoupage) project.

Is that it?

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Paskal,

That's it.

@Blackhorse MP
Ok.

@paskal. Sorry I just have the ARVN and NVA sets, so no horses.

Yes, plastic is easier to use for the armies of the 20th and 21st centuries.

I play fantasy, using plenty of fantasy Red Box 1/72 scale figures. Here are some photo's of the Red Box figures (Cyclops, Anubis Army, Orcs), as well as some Caesar 1/72 scale figures (Dwarves, Goblins, riding metal Wolves cast from a Prince August mold). My armies are not composed of a single pose, but multiple poses.

I use other injection molded plastic figures for my fantasy armies, as well: 54mm Cave Man as an AD&D Hill Giant; 60mm Vikings as a AD&D Frost Giants; injection molded Lions; dogs painted as War Dogs. I also use soft plastic 54mm-60mm Skeletons, which I have painted up, as well. I use loads of soft plastic figures in numerous armies. Cheers!

@Sgt Slag
Bravo for your achievements, good photos, but now try to build historical DBMM or DBR armies with 1/72nd scale figurines in soft plastic, respecting the army lists and you will see.

Paskal, you asked how to get the riders to stay on their horse mounts…

I had the same issue with Red Box Orc Warg Riders: they would push themselves up, off of the saddles. I finally hit upon the idea of using Blue Painter's Tape. I applied E6000 Glue to the saddle, pressing the rider onto the saddle, holding them in place. Then I wrapped Blue Painter's Tape around the rider, and the mount, holding them in position. I let them dry, overnight…

To my very great delight, when I removed the Painter's Tape, they stayed seated. That was 3+ years ago -- they are still seated today, without issue.

The E6000 Glue is solvent-based. It dries to a hard rubber consistency. I did this on 30+ Warg Riders, and they are all still seated properly within their saddles.

Over time, the rider figure's plastic will adapt to, and 'remember' their current, seated position -- plastic memory sets in, and there is no longer any pressure trying to push them off of their saddles, therefore the E6000 Glue continues to hold, superbly. Cheers!

@Sgt Slag
Bravo for this information, because like everything that has been said on this topic, it will be very useful for those who would one day like to use soft plastic for a traditional wargame.

But now try to build historical DBMM or DBR armies with 1/72nd scale figurines in soft plastic, respecting the army lists and you will see.

I too have ideas, for example to be able to base 20mm soft plastic figurines like 15mm lead figurines on their 4cm forehead bases to mount DBMM or DBR armies, why not remove them their underfoot?

The sensation is strange, when you remove the base from a 20mm soft plastic figurine you have the impression that it changes scale!

Now is flexible plastic more economical than lead and do those who use flexible plastic do so out of concern for savings or out of nostalgia?

For me, it is cost savings, along with availability of the army types I wanted. I picked up most of my Red Box figure sets for <$20 per set, delivered. I could not touch 1/72 sets of metal miniatures, 12 cavalry or 48 infantry, for that price.

I bought Prince August molds, Model Metal, and an electric melting pot. I cast up a few hundred miniatures using the multiple molds I purchased. I was able to cast up figures, inexpensively, but it was all gravity feed, so getting the metal to fill in the arms and legs, was a challenge. I eventually sold off my casting gear.

I like metal, resin, and plastic figures. Most of my 3D printed, UV-cured, resin figures break off at the ankles, when I drop them. I have given up on 3D printed figures for this reason: great figures, great designs, affordable prices… Until I drop them.

Metal is nice, but expensive.

Injection-molded plastic is affordable. The variety of figures available is fantastic. It can be stepped on, without damage! Dropping? Bounce, pick up, blow the dust off, and put back into service. I find them to be incredibly practical, useful, paintable, and affordable. Once mounted on their bases, they have sufficient weight (I use laser cut MDF rectangles, so easy to pick up).

Those are my experiences. Cheers!

@Sgt Slag
For me, they are still generally less seriously sculpted in terms of historical outfits and uniforms than those made of lead which are not a panacea either.

Without forgetting their sometimes extravagant poses.

Besides, I have never seen a classic historical wargame army made up of soft plastic figurines, like DBMM or DBR or soft plastic figurines wargame armies for rules on the Napoleonic wars or the ACW where however there are However a lot of references in soft plastic figurines and when I ask the question, it is always because of what we have discussed a lot until now, how to make the paint stay on these figurines.

This problem has been resolved on this topic I think.