"What is the best paint for 1/72nd soft plastic figures?" Topic

Hello everyone,

Currently, what is the best way to prepare and paint 1/72 scale soft plastic figures?

Because I haven't worked on this kind of figurine since the 60s, I wonder if there haven't been improvements in techniques since then?

Thank you

Rinse with dish soap and an old teeth brush and warm water.
Once dry, use a primer with a brush, I use Vallejo.
You can reinforce bendy parts like a spear with white glue but it's ok if you don't.
Use several coats of diluted acrilyc paints.
Give then a coat of satin varnish and after that, another coat of matt varnish.
Done.
Example with super bendy Hät miniatures:

It's not the paint, it's the primer.

Use a plastic-friendly spray paint to prime the figure. Then you can use any paint you want.

I prefer acrylics over traditional enamel paint. The varnish and primer is also quite important. I have tried a thin coat of acrylic varnish prior to painting and also thinned PVA. Both ways work well, but I don't always do it.
The final varnish coat is the most important thing though.

Not the paint, but the primer and finish. I wash with hot soapy water, prime with a mix of PVA and white acrylic, paint with my usual wargame or even craft shop acrylics, and then coat with a dilute PVA.

About a decade or more back I discovered Valejo Premium White Primer. A hobby establishment employee promised me it would stick to soft plastics – it did and still does.

Game changer! Recommended.

You can also use the Army Pianter Quick Shad, or similar dip products to seal the paint as well.

I've painted, and Dip'ed, literally hundreds of soft plastic Army Men figures. The Minwax Polyshades urethane stain flakes off after 10-or-so years. Very disappointing. I only paint the bits that differ from the plastic's color: skin, weapons, boots (sometimes), etc. The urethane stain is brushed onto the washed, painted, plastic surfaces, and it still forms a tenuous bond to it. Careful handling will avoid rubbing the stain sealer off, in most cases; bending long, thin weapons, will cause it to peel and flake off, very quickly.

The time-honored technique with soft plastic figures is to wash them, first, using dish soap, to remove any oils; follow this by 'painting' them with an undiluted coating of white PVA Glue. Once the PVA Glue dries, they can be painted normally. I've never bothered, so I can't speak to its long-term qualities.

I would, however, recommend using Mod-Podge, in place of PVA Glue -- not the same thing, but close enough.

You have several recommendations. Time to experiment! Cheers!

Same as Sgt. Slag, but I hit them with a coat of clear Plasti Dip when done.

link

Krylon Fusion in any colour you like for the primer.

I have many old Airfix figures I painted back in the early 1970s in enamels which are still as good as the day I painted them. No washing, no primer.

However, modern soft plastic figures are often made of horrible greasy plastic, so I do the following:

1. wash in warm soapy water
2. undercoat in undiluted PVA
3. spray them black
4. paint away
5. give them a coat of acrylic varnish when painted

seems to work OK for most manufacturers, although I have one batch of Emhar figures which flake whatever I do with them, and a couple of batches of HaT guns moulded in something which apparently allows nothing to stick to it at all.

Most modern figures are OK with the PVA method though.

@blacksmìth – those figures are really nicely done!

I use primer spray designed for plastics. Paint normally and seal with plasti-dip clear. It's very matte.

Thanks

John

I have a rock polisher with a fine grit. I tumble a bunch of figures for about 5 minutes until the surface of each is a bit roughed up. Then I do pretty much what others have said using acrylic paint and then brushing with MinWax.

I use brush-on gesso as a primer, and now mostly use acrylic craft paints. The trick to these is to add some acrylic varnish (matte or gloss) to the paint so that it adheres better as it dries (though large areas may need a second coat)
Then seal with your favorite sealer… ;-)
And, I've painted a couple thousand 1/72 plastics this past year, with little problem…

For sure wash and prime really well with plastic friendly paint. I use spray paint.

I've found standard craft acrylics and ay painter speed paints both do well after the wash and prime

I use Cartoon Colour's Cel-Vinyl which is highly flexible it's used by Animators for painting on Acetate. I use it on my metal AB horses also as if a leg gets bent you can straighten it out without the paints cracking.

Acrylic artist paint straight from the tube as a primer. Forms a flexible coat over the figure which is a good base for further paints

@black-smith
Rinse with dish soap, an old toothbrush and lukewarm water, yes it came back to my memory, it's to remove whatever is on the soft plastic figurines.

Use a primer, that is to say a primer? Use this?

Yes with this type of figurine you should not handle the flexible parts like the spears.

Why use several coats of acrylic paints diluted in water and then apply two coats of varnish.

Bravo, beautiful photos.

@Editor in Chief Bill
It's not the paint, it's the primer.

What do you mean?

@20thmaine
You prefer acrylics over traditional enamel paint.

Why?

Did you put a thin layer of acrylic varnish before painting?

On the primer?Which primer adheres best to soft plastic and which paint adheres best to the primer?

@robert piepenbrink
What is PVA?
Glue ?

@MilEFEX3030
Are you talking about this?
link

@Shark Six Three Zero
Are you talking about this?
link
As a primer?

@Sgt Slag
What is Minwax Polyshades urethane paint?

You only paint the elements that differ from the color of the plastic: skin, weapons, boots, so you pretty much have to paint everything then?

What is urethane stain?

When handling this type of figurines, do not bend long and thin weapons which will cause the paint to come off and flake very quickly, yes that is one of the reasons why plastic figurines can be used in wargames, not to mention other problems…

Mod-Podge instead of PVA glue – it's not the same thing, but it's better?

@79thPA
A coat of clear Plasti Dip as a varnish?

@miniMo
Fusion Krylon?
link
What advantage over what was previously mentioned?

@Martin Rapier
No washing, no primer ?

Doesn't enamel paint adhere better than acrylic?

Yes, but they form a diorama and no one has touched them since?

Do you put black paint on the undiluted PVA glue that serves as a primer?

Ah, so there are brands of figurines whose plastic is bad for painting?

@colkitto
Completely agree with you!

@John Leahy
As I asked 79thPAntu use Plasti-dip clear as a varnish?

@Bobgnar
Do you roughen the surface of the figures?

Then I do pretty much what others have said by using acrylic paint and then brushing with MinWax.
link

@Zephyr1
What color gesso do you use as a primer?

What are the best acrylic paints for soft plastic.

Add a little acrylic varnish (matte or glossy) to the paint so that it adheres better as it dries?

@smithsco
After you,which paint sticks best to PVA?

@VonBlucher
That?
link

@all ,
Thank you very much everyone.

I was stupid to promise that I would paint these figures, because it appears that they are RedBox figures which appear to suffer from quite considerable amounts of bleeding and a fairly thick and visible seam where the mold fits meeting, moreover it seems that the rider figurines of this brand do not fit on their horses?

@Sgt Slag
What is Minwax Polyshades urethane paint?

This is a liquid polyurethane with wood stain added to it; polyurethane is used as a floor covering, to protect the wood from being walked upon. It is used for staining and varnishing wooden furniture/floors, all in one step. It was discovered to be very useful in finishing painted miniatures for wargaming, a few decades ago: some gamers bought poorly painted mini's for an upcoming game; they needed to improve the paint job quality, quickly, easily, so they literally dipped some figures in Minwax Polurethane Stain, brushing off the excess -- it accumulated in the folds of the figures, like a black paint wash, only better, sealing the figures' paint underneath polyurethane.

They used Tudor (black), but any dark brown color of urethane stain will work. Even the semi-gloss finish will be too shiny, so a dull, matte clear coat is always necessary after the urethane-stain dries.

Here is an example of my techniques. The smaller Skeleton, left, is a Reaper Bones figure; the middle, Giant Skeleton, is a 54mm toy figure -- I painted his headdress, weapons, shield, etc., but his bones were left unpainted, as the plastic was a slight yellow color, then I painted it with urethane-stain, and I applied a matte clear coat finish; the Cave Man, on the right, only has paint applied to his clothes, hair, and the rock he is about to throw, the rest was unpainted plastic, with urethane-stain painted on, with a matte clear coat finish.

You only paint the elements that differ from the color of the plastic: skin, weapons, boots, so you pretty much have to paint everything then?

No, I use the color of the plastic figure, as it is: green uniform, tan uniform. I paint their flesh, and weapons (typically black), and any other part that is not the color of the plastic. The urethane-stain creates shadows in the folds of the figure's clothing, and other recesses. See the Skeleton and the Cave Man, above, for examples of what I mean regarding Army Men figures.

When handling this type of figurines, do not bend long and thin weapons which will cause the paint to come off and flake very quickly, yes that is one of the reasons why plastic figurines can be used in wargames, not to mention other problems…

Soft plastic figures have been used in wargames for many decades. There are methods of keeping the paint from flaking off, but not all of these methods work well. It is a matter of trial and error, or asking on forums like TMP, to find what works best, over time.

Mod-Podge instead of PVA glue – it's not the same thing, but it's better?

Mod-Podge is a different form of PVA Glue, designed for decoupage crafting projects, originally intended for use with paper materials. It has slightly different properties from regular White (PVA) Glues. Here is a site which discusses what PVA Glue is, and what it is best used for.

Regarding Red Box figure quality… Not all Red Box figures are produced equally: some are really good, with little flash, little misalignment of the molds, etc. They are incredibly low in price, compared to other figure types. They can paint up very well, and being 1/72 scale, or in the 18mm-25mm tall range, they don't get a lot of flexing after painting, when mounted on bases. I've been using Red Box (and Caesar 1/72 soft plastic) fantasy miniatures for around 10 years, maybe more, with no issues with my paint flaking off yet.

Here is an example of Red Box Cyclops; here is what that same figure looked like, out of the box, before priming. The figure on the left, is just painted simply, in a block style; the figure on the right, is painted identically, but it has had the urethane-stain freshly applied. You can see what a difference it makes for such simple painting! Here is a line-up of the Red Box Cyclops, finished, ready for the gaming table.

I am an army painter: "Good enough to game with, at arm's length, is good enough for me." I do not paint for contests, just for my own satisfaction. Cheers!

Yes, the Plasti Dip protects the paint and allows the figure to bend a little wihout the paint flaking off.

@Paskal, I recommend you to use Vallejo acrylic-polyutrethane Surface Primer for aerograph, which I use with just a brush with the same results. Most spray primers have chemicals that do not go well with soft plastics. This method was recommended by Reaper miniatures to use on his Bones soft plastic range and it really works.

Regarding paint, acrylic is more flexible than oil paints, and several diluted coats are more flexible and resistant than one thick coat.

BTW, I forgot to say that new contrast or Xpress paints work really well with soft plastic as they are thin and very flexible. I'm attaching a link to my blog with a video I made for you to see how flexible are the new paints (the spears were painted with Vallejo Xpress). Also, at the back you can see the primer I'm using. It is sold in white, grey and black colour: link

I'm giving two coats of varnish to all my miniatures, be soft or hard plastic or even metal. Glossy is harder than matte, so I give first a gloss coat and then a second matte coat at the next day as I don't like my miniatures to be bright.

@colkitto, thank you!

@Martin Rapier, I painted Eimhar and Hät with this method without any problem:

"What color gesso do you use as a primer?"

I use Liquitex white gesso. A bottle of it will prime thousands of figures. And a lot cheaper than spray primer… ;-)

"What are the best acrylic paints for soft plastic."

I have some of almost every brand, as some have paint colors the others don't (but don't use watercolor paints… ;-)

"Add a little acrylic varnish (matte or glossy) to the paint so that it adheres better as it dries?"

Yes, it also 'holds' the pigment together, and adds a lttle 'skin'/flex to the paint. I've used acrylics that flaked off after they dried, and this insures some against that.

For me any paint can stick well. I use cheap craft acrylics mostly.

I have had some success and failure with Redbox products. The success requires thorough cleaning. Let them dry. I then use spray paint to prime them. I use cheap multi surface white spray paint from Walmart. I do two light, even coats. Hand priming is a pain but that has worked too.

My failure were from not cleaning well enough or not priming enough. Paint chipped and flaked easily

Paskal, Krylon Fusion paint is designed to work on a great many plastics, including bendy ones.

Advantage over others, I have no idea. It's the only one I've used and it works great.

Way back when, I tried enamel paints on Airfix in the 70s and it all flaked off instantly. Couldn't find any glue to stick to it neither. If we had the Fusion paint and Plasti-Zap glue back then, I wouldn't have avoided soft plastics for so long.

Yep Minimo, my Humbrol enamels flaked off almost instantly too, gun barrels had zero hold! If I had known how to even PVA dip then I would have had prestine legions of plastic. and wouldn't have started down metals.

I've been going through some of my old plastics from when I was a kid to list on ebay and pay my rent this month and some of the sets were REALLY good – Matchbox 1/76 ANZACS, ESCI 1/72 US & British Airborne are outstading. Almost considered keeping but need the money and I can't get back into them because they would represent basially another! scale (Not compatible at all with 20mm metals). I'm keeping a few of them I painted(with 50% chipping!) as memories though.

@Sgt Slag
So if I understood correctly you don't paint with paint?

If you use the color of the plastic figurine as is, you have to find the figurines of the right color then?

So you recommend Mod-Podge instead of PVA glue – as a primer?

@79thPA
Ah, if the Plasti Dip allows the figure to bend a little without the paint flaking off, that's good.

@blacksmith
If several diluted layers of acrylics are more flexible and resistant than a single thick layer of enamel paint, how many should you use?

Thanks for the link and congratulations for the photos.

@Zephyr1
Everything you say is good to know!

@smithsco
I bet you know which paint chips less than others!

@miniMo
With Krylon Fusion paint, nothing flakes anymore?

@MilEFEX3030
Selling your figurines to pay bills is sad enough.

I sold all my figurines, all brands combined, and now I only have my historical 25mm MiniFigs, my tons of books, often bought on the advice of educated members of TMP, so much so that it is also the only forum from which I have not unsubscribed.

So I now only have my enormous collection of historical 25 mm MiniFigs, some of which are real rarities.

The oldest were has people who also parted with them to pay bills or worse to seek treatment, so much so that I was almost ashamed to buy their collections.

The problem with my dear 25mm historical MiniFigs is one of those that I indicate below with the 1/72 soft plastic figurines, the non-compliance with historical uniformology in certain ranges and also certain conflicts "that I love" which are not treated…

@All
In fact, some use soft plastic figurines at 1/72 scale for reasons of economy, others for nostalgia, others for collection, some even consider the boxes as precious objects, and you?

But for me, when it comes to wargaming with soft plastic figurines in 1/72 scale, I will find it complicated, because I don't necessarily find them economical; for example when in your box there is no only 4 figurines with the weaponry you want for a type of fighter obligatory in your army list, because even if all the other poses are useful, you will have to buy a lot of boxes to have the figurines which for example do not would only be 4 copies per box whereas for example you would have 48, 52, 56, 60 or more in your army; and there is also the problem of the sometimes extravagant poses of certain figurines and the non – respect for historical uniformology.

Other things, do you base your figurines in soft plastic at 1/72 scale like 15mm or 25mm?

Because they are often too big to be base like 15mm and too small to be base like 25mm.

And you can only play against people using the same scale…

For spray paint Krylon Fusion is good. I also use Colorplace spray paint and it has worked well.

Best coverage and least chipping for me in acrylics is the Craft Smart brand. Army painter speed paints worked really well too without chipping much. Those are just my experiences.

@Paskal, more than a specific number of layers is about diluting the acrylic paint. I normally apply two coats but sometimes just one and three or more. It depends on the visual result. So basically, use diluted acrylic paints :)

Regarding basing, for individual bases most people use 1-2 cent coins. They give the figures some needed weight and also they can be stored on magnetised sheets. I use different measures for different scales, 15, 20, 28mm.

I use 1/72 to play solo. To play with people I use the required scale which normally is 15 & 28mm.

@Sgt Slag
So if I understood correctly you don't paint with paint?

If you use the color of the plastic figurine as is, you have to find the figurines of the right color then?

So you recommend Mod-Podge instead of PVA glue – as a primer?

For Army Men figures only, I use the color of the plastic: they are already green/tan, so why paint over that? It adds time to painting the figure, without any gain.

The trick is to ensure the paint, and the urethane stain do not flake off. That is the challenging part.

I am not very particular about Army Men uniform colors. I will organize forces by base colors -- "close," is good enough for me. On top of that, I glue a colored plastic tubule to the figure bases, which denotes Units, so, again, uniform color may vary, but units are easy to recognize. Note that the super-majority of my Army Men figures are not painted… I painted them, when I started gaming with them, in 1998, but they started to flake their paint and urethane-stain off, by 2010, so I stopped painting them. The pictured game took place in 2015.

The tubule system is used in my fantasy games, as well; I don't have tubules glued onto every figure's base, yet, so I used colored rubber bands around the figure's feet for those units, in the game pictured. It allows me to make up different units of the same racial armies, by the tubule colors. The plastic tubules are small, and unobtrusive, physically, and visually.

Originally, I glued a small wooden dowel on the base, so that I could slip the tubules off to change the Unit assignments by changing the colors, but I've since given up on that, just permanently marking each base with its Unit marking.

Yes, I recommend using Mod-Podge over White PVA Glue. There are different types of formulations for Mod-Podge: gloss, matte, furniture grade (longer cure time, but should be more durable), and more.

To be honest, I hate brush-on primer: too tedious, too slow. I normally use inexpensive, sandable, automotive spray primer. Its rough texture is mostly smoothed by applying full-strength craft acrylic paints. The urethane-stain layer fills in any microscopic roughness, even further.

Pick a method to try, and see what happens. Everyone has their preferences, you will find yours, through trial and experimentation. Cheers!

@smithsco
For painting, does Krylon Fusion exist for painting with brushes?

The Craft Smart brand? Not know ?

@blacksmith
With acrylic you need several diluted layers, but then you can drown out the details of the sculpture?

However, I don't think these figurines will be used for skirmish.

To degrease figurines, there is no specific product more effective than soapy water, because this part of the work is extremely important for the rest of the operations.

@Sgt Slag
This adds time to painting the figure, without any gain, yes but the plastic of the figurines is shiny, isn't it? Plus this won't work for all periods.

@All
I was asked what type of primer does glossy enamel paint require and if this type of paint requires varnish?

This is to make something that catches the eye and is not dull like matte paint, even if it is not realistic.

@Paskal. Nope. It's usually the other way round. One thick undiluted layer of paint cover details much more than a few thin delayed coats.

@Sgt Slag
This adds time to painting the figure, without any gain, yes but the plastic of the figurines is shiny, isn't it? Plus this won't work for all periods.

Not sure what you mean about adding time to painting.

Matte clear coat serves multiple purposes.

True, the color of the plastic only works for some figures, and some periods.

I have some plastic Wargs (fantasy wolves), light brown plastic. I painted dark brown spots on the bare plastic, to imitate their depiction in The Lord of the Rings movie. Made painting super-fast, super simple. When it works, it is fantastic. Cheers!

Hey Paskal.

No, this:

I found Krylon Fusion house paints but I wouldn't recommend that because it's a different formula. No idea it will do. If I'm priming with a brush I use craft smart white acrylic.

Craft Smart is an acrylic brand associated with a chain of craft and hobby stores in the US called Michaels. You can buy it directly from them or on Amazon.

@blacksmith
So shiny enamel paint is not recommended?

You haven't yet told me how you go about wargaming with soft plastic miniatures at 1/72 scale, apart from "skirmish"?

I'm going to find it complicated, because I don't necessarily find them economical; for example if you want to build an army following the recommendations of an army list and when in your box there are only 4 figurines with the weaponry you want for a type of obligatory fighter in your list army which requires dozens of figurines.

Because even if all the other poses are useful, you will still have to buy a lot of boxes to have the figurines that for example you want which would only be 4 copies per box whereas for example you would need 48, 52, 56, 60 or more in your army; and there is also the problem of the sometimes extravagant poses of certain figurines and the non-respect of historical uniformology.

Furthermore, do you base your figures in soft plastic at 1/72 scale like 15mm or 25mm if we use rules where there is no individual base?

Because they are often too big to be a base like 15mm and too small to be a base like 25mm.

In short you can only play against people using plastic figures…

@Sgt Slag
It's true that a mixture of painted and unpainted parts on a figurine can be aesthetically pleasing if you don't notice the difference and if it doesn't accelerate the peeling of the paint.

You haven't yet told me how you go about wargaming with soft plastic miniatures at 1/72 scale, apart from "skirmish"?

I'm going to find it complicated, because I don't necessarily find them economical; for example if you want to build an army following the recommendations of an army list and when in your box there are only 4 figurines with the weaponry you want for a type of obligatory fighter in your list army which requires dozens of figurines.

Because even if all the other poses are useful, you will still have to buy a lot of boxes to have the figurines that for example you want which would only be 4 copies per box whereas for example you would need 48, 52, 56, 60 or more in your army; and there is also the problem of the sometimes extravagant poses of certain figurines and the non-respect of historical uniformology.

Furthermore, do you base your figures in soft plastic at 1/72 scale like 15mm or 25mm if we use rules where there is no individual base?

Because they are often too big to be a base like 15mm and too small to be a base like 25mm.

In short you can only play against people using plastic figures…

@MilEFEX3030
For you, he is the best new product.

You haven't yet told me how you go about wargaming with soft plastic miniatures at 1/72 scale, apart from "skirmish"?

I'm going to find it complicated, because I don't necessarily find them economical; for example if you want to build an army following the recommendations of an army list and when in your box there are only 4 figurines with the weaponry you want for a type of obligatory fighter in your list army which requires dozens of figurines.

Because even if all the other poses are useful, you will still have to buy a lot of boxes to have the figurines that for example you want which would only be 4 copies per box whereas for example you would need 48, 52, 56, 60 or more in your army; and there is also the problem of the sometimes extravagant poses of certain figurines and the non-respect of historical uniformology.

Furthermore, do you base your figures in soft plastic at 1/72 scale like 15mm or 25mm if we use rules where there is no individual base?

Because they are often too big to be a base like 15mm and too small to be a base like 25mm.

In short you can only play against people using plastic figures…

@smithsco
Craft Smart is not known for depicting figurines.

You haven't yet told me how you go about wargaming with soft plastic miniatures at 1/72 scale, apart from "skirmish"?

I'm going to find it complicated, because I don't necessarily find them economical; for example if you want to build an army following the recommendations of an army list and when in your box there are only 4 figurines with the weaponry you want for a type of obligatory fighter in your list army which requires dozens of figurines.

Because even if all the other poses are useful, you will still have to buy a lot of boxes to have the figurines that for example you want which would only be 4 copies per box whereas for example you would need 48, 52, 56, 60 or more in your army; and there is also the problem of the sometimes extravagant poses of certain figurines and the non-respect of historical uniformology.

Furthermore, do you base your figures in soft plastic at 1/72 scale like 15mm or 25mm if we use rules where there is no individual base?

Because they are often too big to be a base like 15mm and too small to be a base like 25mm.

In short you can only play against people using plastic figures…

@Paskal,
Acrylic is better than enamel.
Most of my 1/72 games are with individual models based on 2 cent coins, but if I have to base the figures on bigger bases for units, like for example DBA, I use the official measures of the bases in that ruleset I'm playing and fill the base with as many figures as possible. So, in DBA you have measures for 2-15mm armies or for 25+mm armies and you can do 1/72 in any of those ranges just using more or less figures per base. Following this example, most people use measures for 25mm figures and squeeze more figures in the base as the important thing is the measures of the base, not the number of figures in it. For intstance, a heavy infantry base contains a row of 4 25mm models, but doing it in 1/72 it could contain two rows of 4 models for a total of 8, which BTW makes the base visually better.
I am using 1/72 for nostalgia, room and proportions of the figures, but as you say, they are not necesarily more economic as you have to struggle to get the minis you want in each box. For example, I was recently trying to make an order to buy me a Napoleonic army for DBN and the minimum number of boxes needed for that were 4-5 boxes as I needed heavy and light infantry, artillery and light and heavy cavalry, meaning at least one box of each category. Thus, the same army would be cheaper if I do it in 15mmm, but still be slightly more expensive to do it in 25mm.
And of course, if you go 1/72, is to play in that scale and not to mix it with an opponent using a different scale. So you either build both sides/armies or find somebody with the same interests.

Craft Smart isn't known for it's application to figures but it works well. I was pointed to it by Perris0707…his work is phenomenal. Use standard painting techniques with it and it will turn out really well and is fairly cheap. If you're willing to pay more then buy army painter speed paints.

As for how to wargame…my group always picks scale agnostic games so we can use the miniatures we want. If multiple figures are on a base we all use the same base sizes. Otherwise we mount them individually for skirmish on pennies. It's a group decision how we do an era.

Paskal,

Yes, Krylon Fusion bends with the plastic and does not flake off. (I've also always scrubbed the plastic with an old toothbrush using warm water and a bit of detergent, then a rinse and dry.)

As for gaming with 1/72 plastics, I know Napoleonic players in France and Russia use them for DBN on the base sizes for 25 mm figures; DBA too. (England and America tend towards metal 15s).

They work well for Blitzkrieg Commander with several figures on a stand to represent a platoon.

I use them as single figures for Zombie gaming along with 100s of the plastic 1/72 figures from the Zombies!!! board game. (20mm Dark Future metals and others mixed in too.)

@blacksmith
Acrylic is better than enamel for what reasons in your opinion?

Before starting this topic I thought that shiny enamel (for fun, not for realism…)on an undercoat of matte enamel would have given something sturdy.

@smithsco
Buy quick paints for military painters?

What brands ?

@miniMo
So for you Krylon Fusion is the best primer !

The brand is called "Army Painter"and the specific line of paints is called "Speed Paint" link to website below

shorturl.at/bdDZ4

@Paskal, it's a fact, enamel is less flexible than acrylic and flakes off more easily.

I've put enamels on top of Krylon Fusion with no problems. Would not use enamels as a base coat though.

@Paskal

"For you, he is the best new product."

Sorry, I don't understand.

"You haven't yet told me how you go about wargaming with soft plastic miniatures at 1/72 scale, apart from "skirmish"?"

In fact I find more combat ready poses in plastic sets than metals. I've been admiring the Matchbox WW2 sets from the '70s, each man a he-man of battle, aiming or at the ready with his weapon, 95% useable in toe to toe combat with the enemy!

Edit Matchbox are 1/76 and ESCI, with the most broad range of 1/72 I think had a lot of dumb useless poses (German holding a landmine in one hand and a schmeiser in the other ANYONE?!"

@smithsco
Bravo because we find this in the EU!

You didn't tell me what to do with the RedBox figurines, they seem to suffer from quite considerable bleeding and a quite thick and visible seam where the mold fits, plus it seems that the rider figurines of this brand are not suitable for their horses?

How to do ?

@blacksmith
It's actually a fact, you remind me of bad memories from the 60s.

You didn't tell me what to do with the RedBox figurines, they seem to suffer from quite considerable bleeding and a quite thick and visible seam where the mold fits, plus it seems that the rider figurines of this brand are not suitable for their horses?

How to do ?

@miniMo
What do you use as a base coat on top of Krylon Fusion?

You didn't tell me what to do with the RedBox figurines, they seem to suffer from quite considerable bleeding and a quite thick and visible seam where the mold fits, plus it seems that the rider figurines of this brand are not suitable for their horses?

How to do ?

@MilEFEX3030
I wanted to say that for you, the Vallejo Premium White Primer is the best primer?

And yes, for the armies of the 20th century, plastic is easier to use.

There is also the fact that as for the RedBox figures, they seem to suffer from quite considerable bleeding and a fairly thick and visible seam where the mold fits, plus it seems that the horsemen figures of this brand are not suitable for their horses?

How to do ?

Umm, Krylon Fusion is my basecoat. It's a spray paint. I just spray the figures with whatever predominant colour to save brush time, then I paint right on top of it with everything else.

Some soft plastics do have bad mould lines that are very difficult to trim smoothly. Best, but not perfect, answer is a sharp scalpel. I got a box of them cheap from Amazon or EBay.

@miniMo
Krylon Fusion as primer and basecoat, ok but does this only come in spray?

I asked JENOLITE the question.

Isn't that what the Jenolite brand sells in the UK?

link

But before using your krylon fusion for plastic, do you have to degrease the figurines with soap and hot water?

There is still no detergent to degrease plastic figurines by letting them soak in it for a while?

Krylon Fusion is an altogether different product by a different brand. Yes this is available in only an aerosol and via Amazon in the EU.

But before using your krylon fusion for plastic, do you have to degrease the figurines with soap and hot water?

In my experience, not necessary but probably a good idea.

Yes, it is just a spray paint.

I don't take chances and always wash.

@miniMo
But is krylon fusion the name of the brand or what ?

Is there no equivalent for using with brushes?

@All
Thank you.

There remains the fact that the RedBox figurines seem to suffer from quite significant bleeding and a fairly thick and visible seam where the mold is inserted, moreover it seems that the rider figurines of this brand are not suitable to their horses and therefore do not hold on to them?

How to do ?