"Modelling putty for soft plastic 1/72 miniatures?" Topic

I need to make a very small conversion on the hat of some 1/72 soft plastic figures. I would like to use some putty that I can apply with a toothpick or a small spatula. Does Milliput stick to soft plastic? Or what brand could I use? Thank you in advance

Few things will stick to HDPE (Army Men) soft plastic. I would suggest Green Stuff 2-part epoxy.

As far as glue types go, I've had excellent success using Hot Glue on HDPE Army Men figures, bonding them to MDF bases. It actually holds them with a very strong bond, where almost nothing else does. High Temperature Hot Glue is unnecessary: I use multi-temp glue sticks, usually in a Low Temperature Hot Glue Gun. The High Temperature Glue Guns allow more working time, but that is more of a hindrance than a boon, for me, as it is far too thin, flowing too much, for too long. Low Temperature Guns give much better results, hardening much faster.

E6000 Glue is the next best glue for HDPE plastic figures, but it is a distant second, go-to glue, for me. On Caesar/Red Box miniatures, E6000 Glue works superbly, for me. These figures are not HDPE plastic, however, as far as I can tell. They are made of a firmer, stiffer, type of plastic material than Army Men. I use E6000 Glue, exclusively, on Caesar/Red Box figures, bonding them to MDF bases -- superb strength!

Experimentation is king, Baby! Best of luck! Cheers!

If it were me and I thought I couldn't use thick white glue like Ailene's to make the change, I'd use "green stuff" epoxy putty.

This may seem a bit elaborate,

But I would suggest you prepare the area of attachment by slicing a crosshatch pattern into the plastic, then clean it with Heptane (Goo Gone or Zippo lighter refill should also work).

Next add a bridging material such as an CA (super glue) designed for plastic, such as P40
link

This should make a good area to add a flexible modeling putty such as Kneadatite (green-stuff).

Another working method, similar and complementary to the one described above, is to use a heated needle to melt a hole (or several) in the place of the upcoming work (I use a small soldering iron for radio components with a needle screwed to it using wire). Depth – no less than a millimeter. Excess plastic squeezed out of the hole is removed with a sharp blade. Your sculpting material is carefully stuffed into these holes. The connection will be more reliable.
First practice somewhere on a not very important part of the figure – for example, on a stand.

IMVHO, best method is sculpting with soldering iron, as Cuprum2 said.

Here is my tutorial:
Part 1
link
Part2
link