"How to base 6mm" Topic

Hi,

I've "rediscovered " my 6mm Peninsula (they weren't lost, but I've finally finished tidying my shelving), and I'm looking at rebasing them. I'm looking for layout suggestions.

So here are the basics.

I will rebasing for "Blucher" so each stand will represent approx either 1200-2000 or 2000-3000 men, basically a lot

A strip of 4 is about 3 cm. I have 2 man strips too.

Because of the way the rules work skirmishers are integral to a base, not represented separately. Most British and French units will have the "skirmish" ability, some Allies may not.

I may need to have a gun on some stands.

Each base will need a unit ID on, this will be just the Corps number.

Each base will need to have its remaining strength tracked. I may also need to track unit abilities.

I have solved these for my 5th coalition 9mm mdf semi flats, but I don't think this will be good for metal 6mm because of a) size and b) I will probably go for a more traditional method with metal; with the Little Wooden Men you can't disguse the fact they are flat, so I didn't flock, but went for a "billiard table cigar and brandy" look.

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These I can do multiple different OrBats with, I'm not so worried with 6mm.

Don't flock them, flock always looks out of scale for 6mm figs. – there's some good texturing for even smaller (3mm) figures on this site:
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For ease of packing I base mine on steel paper and have magnetic tiles in the troop trays. Steel paper seems to be hard to find now so thin ferro-magnetic sheet can be used. BTW I am of the opinion small figures like these need to be on very thin bases to avoid the 'standing on a platform' look.

For labels and strength tracking I would put the unit (Corps?) ID on a thin magnetic strip and the numbers on the base across the back. Thus the magnetic strip can slid across the base to indicate which denotes its current strength (obviously you musn't texture this part of the base) and I would colour it to blend with the table top as I don't like labels drawing the eye away from the troops.

If you can make the label only half a base-width the strength could be a less obtrusive series of dots taking up the righthand side of the rear base edge. Thus the ID is slid right hiding each dot in turn until it covers them all when it occupies the RHS.

All the above is just a suggestion – I am sure there are many other ways you can skin this cat.

I'm going to stick the label to the underside. My main thing now is how to base 6mm; 2 lines? How wide?

My 6mm stuff Napoleonic is generally based in two lines. I used to do three lines but it doesn't look any better and jus uses more figures. I use 30mm width bases in any case and use sabot bases with magnetic sheet on them to make up larger units.

Some elements have flags, some a line of skirmishers etc so I can mix and match. I have some specific skirmish elements, which are useful to the ndicate extra skirmish ability in rules which care about such things (life ke Blucherl.

I'm certainly not basing my stuff to fit some wierd rules specific basing scheme. Polemos is the worst with those bizarre 60x30 bases. Why? Just use a sabot.

I am with you on the "general" basing, but given my limited numbers, which I probably not add to, I don't think I will use them for anything else.

I used my 6mm Grande Armee 2" x 2" stands for Blucher. I have a strip at the back of the base for labels and we use small D6 to mark Fatigue and counters for "Prepared" and attached artillery…

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I think flocking works fine for 6mm if done right…

"I think flocking works fine for 6mm if done right…"

Absolutely, and for 2mm too. Flat bases just look odd, unless you are going for a toy soldier look.

Hello Martin Rapier!

"Polemos is the worst with those bizarre 60x30 bases. Why?" Great question.

The first thing to notice is the shape, similar to a brick the main piece in building a lot of houses. So it's the main piece in building 6mm armies. If you use smaller pieces for your basic unit of a battalion or regiment (20x20, 30x30, etc.) your big Napoleonic battles like Waterloo or Borodino, etc. become a logistical nightmare and require a bigger table. So you've lost two advantages of using 6mm, time and space.

The Polemos rules don't require you to show or waste any valuable game time showing or even thinking about formation changes. This is an automatic feature handled by the command level below that of the game level. The units are always in the best formation for the situation at hand. However, if it's important to you, you can design specific bases to show squares, etc. For a smaller battle you can also use the 60x30 as parts of a battalion or add a couple of 30x30 flank companies.

Some people who play other big battle systems just use the 60x30 as a brigade or a part brigade as in Polemos Napoleonic rules "Marechal de I'Empire" which uses 60x60.

So Last Hussar you can use either of these bases for "Blucher" and maintain a smaller table requirement. You can also maintain your ability to play pretty much any popular Napoleonic rule set out there as is or with a few minor house rules. You will probably never have to rebase again or use ugly sabots.

Glad to answer any questions you might have.

Best regards,

Glenn