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"How to shade gold?" Topic


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billclo02 Jun 2023 4:39 a.m. PST

I've got a couple figures that are done up in some Citadel Gehenna's Gold that I want to do some shading in some recessed areas. Haven't shaded gold before – other metallics, some experience, gold zero.

I don't think highlights will be necessary or desirable, but some shading of the recessed areas to give some depth might be nice.

Here is what I am painting: Ideas?

Schogun02 Jun 2023 5:21 a.m. PST

The usual I'd say --Nuln Oil or Agraqx Earthshade or other dark wash them highlight back up.

Ran The Cid02 Jun 2023 5:48 a.m. PST

I use Sepia – dark red/brown to shade gold.

billclo02 Jun 2023 6:31 a.m. PST

I've got some Agrax Earthshade, didn't think to try that.

I wasn't going to wash the entire miniature; I wanted to do just some targeted recessed areas, maybe a few panel lines in the top area of the miniature. This is a gaming piece, not a show piece after all. :)

Personal logo Sgt Slag Supporting Member of TMP02 Jun 2023 6:32 a.m. PST

I use Minwax Polyshades Urethane Stain – Royal Walnut (dark, dirty brown). Brush it on! Do NOT dunk the figure in the can! Mix it VRY thoroughly, first, as the pigment is thick, and it settles to the bottom of the can between uses.

Use a clean brush to wick away excess pooling. You can also use the edge of a paper towel/napkin to soak up the excess pools.

The blue cans use an ether solvent, and these dry very much faster (2-3 hours only!), with less odor, than the golden cans (oil/solvent based, dry completely within 3-4 days). I highly recommend the blue cans over the golden cans, but keep them away from open flames, as ether fumes are heavier than air, and highly flammable (negligible volumes of fumes, but better safe, than sorry).

A matte clear coat is recommended after the urethane stain dries. The metal will still be shiny through the matte coating. Here is an AD&D Brass Dragon, painted with very shiny brass spray paint, followed by the blue canned, Royal Walnut urethane stain, with a matte clear coat. Here is an AD&D Copper Dragon, after painting it with the golden canned Minwax Polyshades Royal Walnut, without the matte clear coat; the spine fins, and the wings, were painted with translucent pearlescent paint, so they look a bit different than the main body. Cheers!

HansPeterB02 Jun 2023 7:14 a.m. PST

Flesh wash or flesh contrast/speed paint does a nice job as well.

nnascati Supporting Member of TMP02 Jun 2023 9:54 a.m. PST

Dark brown wash, then dry brush silver.

DyeHard02 Jun 2023 10:49 a.m. PST

I had to say:
Wow! I have not tried this since I was a kid (1960s).
So, I though a wash would work to shade gold, but what are people doing these days.
Three levels:

Simple metallic with ink type wash (also called quick shape, and contrast paint these days)
YouTube link

True Metallic Metals (TMM)
YouTube link

And lastly:
Non-Metallic Metal(NMM)
YouTube link

I will stick to a simple ink type wash for my simple painting, it is was fun to learn about some of these methods .

billclo02 Jun 2023 3:50 p.m. PST

I got ahold of some Citadel Fyreslayer flesh at the recommendation of the local game store owner. I had brought in 2 ideas that I got from various sources but he had suggested that one because it is thicker, being a contrast paint and not an wash (I'm only doing targeted work, not washing large areas).

The shading looks good, adding a darkish reddish hue to the panel lines and recessed areas.

Martin Rapier02 Jun 2023 11:45 p.m. PST

Dark brown wash.

Dexter Ward03 Jun 2023 1:17 a.m. PST

Sepia ink

Luther03 Jun 2023 5:08 a.m. PST

Reikland fleshshade

Personal logo Herkybird Supporting Member of TMP03 Jun 2023 10:53 a.m. PST

I always do gold by painting a base of steel, and when dry, brush with Gryphon Sepia, this makes a rather nice shade, at least to me!

Oberlindes Sol LIC Supporting Member of TMP04 Jun 2023 8:37 p.m. PST

Try some things and post the results!

billclo05 Jun 2023 3:25 a.m. PST

Oberlindes…

I've got the 2 figures shaded and highlighted (relented on that), with a test/sacrificial figure to test what clear coat/varnish combination will protect it but not kill the metallic shine, nor make it way too shiny.

CeruLucifus06 Jun 2023 9:20 p.m. PST

Depending on the effect you are looking for, black wash or dark brown wash or mid-brown wash.

I usually use black.

You said you don't need to highlight, but if you change your might, use a bright gold or if you don't have any, mix some silver to lighten your gold.

phil bagnall07 Jun 2023 1:50 a.m. PST

I usually use brown wash (eg GW Agrax earthshade) for gold/bronze/copper. However if you're looking to use a wash for the grey armour on that model too, I'd be tempted to try black (eg Nuln oil) on the whole model

billclo07 Jun 2023 3:36 a.m. PST

Cerulucifus,
I did relent and did some highlighting. I was thinking it didn't need highlights since it was so shiny, but after talking to the local game store guy (good figure painter), he convinced me to try highlighting it. He was right, it helped. :)

I figured out what combination of varnish and clear coat will be suitable. Just waiting on painting up a few more figures then I can batch paint the skin areas, and some small details and said gold figures will be done. I'll post a pic then.

billclo13 Jun 2023 6:44 a.m. PST

I finally finished up the gold figure, here is how it turned out.

Not too shabby for this non-expert, I think. :)

CeruLucifus15 Jun 2023 1:24 a.m. PST

Nice.

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