"How does the Historicon flea market work?" Topic

I need to know everything. What does it cost? What do you get? How long can you remain? How do you register for space?

Any information would be helpful. Thanks.

Here's a start;
hmgs.org/mpage/HCReg

You purchase table space the same time you register for the convention. Times vary, and now with new/earlier times it has changed drastically. You used to get a 3 hour slot for your purchase and Sundays were free.

Thank you.

I am still interested in hearing about peoples' experiences as a seller.

I have sold a lot at the flea market probably over 20 years. People look for all sorts of items so I would not discount selling historical, fantasy and sci-fi there. In general I find that people either blow out things that they just want to move but you also find more high end items. I feel that it has been a good experience.

You can sell pretty much anything military history or wargaming-related, but if you actually want to move stuff, and not just enjoy the social aspect of having a flea market table,
1. Price low and drop prices as necessary. Never, ever think about what you paid for it, or the price you once saw on eBay.
2. Label everything so no one has to pick it up to know what it is. Have spare labels.
3. Don't stack stuff. If there isn't enough room, keep some back until there is.
4. Put a conspicuous price on everything in even dollars. Have spare price stickers.
5. Keep a change pouch. Say 12 $5 USD bills and 20 singles.
6. Have bags or boxes for the buyers.
7. Remember everything has to be moved from your car to the flea market, and the LCCC is not friendly for this. I use stackable plastic milk crates and a small two-wheel cart.
8. Near the end of your session, decide what you're willing to take home and bring out again next year. Mark everything else "FREE TO GOOD HOME" and walk away.

That is all excellent advice. There will be some who are really dealers who don't want to pay the dealer fee. They often have nice stuff but not 'garage sale" prices.

There will be some who pick up wargamer-friendly items at a Dollar Store and take off the packaging and offer it for $2. USD

Caveat emptor!

All very good advice. I keep a set amount of money as change: about 20x$1, 5x$5, a couple tens and some $20 USDs. Make sure you know how much I'm change you start with so you can figure out how much you made in sales.

I price things to move. Look at what things cost MSRP or comps on eBay and then reduce from there. Be prepared to drop prices if you aren't getting any bites. Labelled prices make things easy. If you are selling a large amount, label what the contents are, it helps.

I remember one convention, there were some rules being given away for free and some ended up on tables at Wally's going for $5 USD-10. Some real characters in there.

I think you need to decide whether your try to make buck or dispose of your stuff. If it's the first be prepared to pack it up and put it back in your car.

Don't try to sell in big batches. Break things up into smaller priced purchases.

Price your items to sell but don't give away the good stuff. Prepare to lower your price(s) as your session progresses.

But don't forget one of my favorite quotes when a buyer tried to low ball me:

"This is the flea market, not ebay!"

If you have a lot of interrelated items, 45 packs of unopened Peter Pig SCW figs, 70 1/2400 Panzerschiffes WWI ships, a round cookie tin of assorted 15mm Napoleonic bits and bobs, think ahead how you'll react if someone asks, "how much for all of them? It's the one thing I really feel resellers don't think about in advance.

The last thing you'll want to do is start counting up the lot and figuring how much of a bulk discount you want to give in the midst of the bustling throng. Be prepared.

Go through and spruce up your items.

Nothing says junk more than a cardboard tray of dusty tanks. Also, asking $150 USD for a tray of chipped paint and bent muskets is not going to cut it.

Exeter, I should have thought of that. I usually mark such items "individual price/price for whole box."

The first customer will always want you to break a 100 dollar bill. Be ready.

Right. The trade-off is price and speed of sale. If you want what it is worth put it in an auction with a minimum price. Maybe a buyer will agree with you as to its worth. But if you want to get rid of it, price it for, not half, but no more than a fourth of what you think it is worth.

The Sunday morning flea market at Historicon is still free. But a lot of potential buyers will probably have left town by then.

Also, set up an hour before the Sunday morning posted start time. You can't start selling early during the other days, when you're paying for the table, but on Sundays people are ready to head home ASAP and you'll miss some potential sales if you don't actually get there until 9:00 (the posted hour) on Sunday (see paragraph 1 above).

A lot of buyers expect to find bargains on Sunday because the vendors don't have to cover a table fee before they begin to make a profit. Buyers also hope to find further bargains from vendors who don't want to schlepp all that stuff home. Plan accordingly.

Keep a change pouch. Say 12 $5 USD USD bills and 20 singles.

Or even more change. As Snurl1 said, someone will likely show up with a $100 USD for you to break.

Label everything so no one has to pick it up to know what it is. Have spare labels.

Use labels that don't stick too hard to the item, especially if you're selling nice books or games with good packaging. A label that will damage the item when removed is a deterrent for the buyer.

Don't stack stuff. If there isn't enough room, keep some back until there is.

Make your table appealing. Stuff dumped any old way is hard to identify and gets fewer people to stop their strolling. (By the way, Flea Market regulations don't allow table covers, elaborate signage, etc., but you may – and should – label stuff clearly.)

Have bags or boxes for the buyers.

Definitely. Boxes for fragile or multi-part items, and plenty of bags.

I keep a set amount of money as change: about 20x$1, 5x$5, a couple tens and some $20 USD USDs. Make sure you know how much change you start with so you can figure out how much you made in sales.

I usually have some consignment items from other gamers who can't be there, so I make a list of everything I sell and the prices paid, so as to keep the accounts straight. But if it's all your stuff, you may not care how much you made. At least keep track until you've covered the cost of the table. Then you can be more flexible and generous as a vendor.

Don't try to sell in big batches. Break things up into smaller priced purchases.

And if you have small batches and someone wants to bargain be prepared, as HMS Exeter said, to make a discount offer if you bulk them together.

A couple of additional thoughts.

1. If you're selling an unbuilt model kit or a box of figures with multiple parts, label clearly whether it's a complete set. If you removed your favorite figures from a set or part of a model (say, the gun tractor from an Airfix 25-pounder kit) make this clear to the buyer. Otherwise, they'll be disgruntled, plus you likely won't get return business.

2. If a potential buyer stops trolling and takes a second look, don't be afraid to chat them up. It may result in a sale and not just a momentary stop. This may lead to bargaining. They will be happy for the deal, and you'll get rid of that stuff that's been on the shelf since you can't remember. Also, you know how much fun it is to yak with fellow-hobbyists! I've had newbies to the field get excited and even call their friends to have a look.

Good luck! And remember, you're not there to get rich but rather to clean out your hobby room for all that new stuff you bought at the flea market.

The flea market is a great test and display of character. Nice guys and assholes become quickly apparent.

Some great points above. A couple of other things to consider:
• The tables in the flea market are 30"x72" or 36"x72". One strategy is to bring roughly enough stuff to cover the table completely once for each session. If you price things right, you shouldn't take too much home (or you'll have room for all the great deals you find).
• Price everything. Painter's tape is a great option. It's easy to write on and easy to remove (for reducing prices if needed).
• Don't hesitate to talk to everyone who passes your table. Yeah, we're a bunch of introverts, but most respond to a friendly face and voice, and that's how many a flea market deal starts. :)