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"Non adhesion new anycubic mega s" Topic

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chironex23 Jun 2022 4:47 a.m. PST

Just unboxed last week, was working Monday afternoon but now will not adhere at all. Leveled and cleaned and adjusted all manner of settings but no improvement. Has only successfully given 3 prints, the rest is just a mess.

Star Blazer23 Jun 2022 5:23 a.m. PST

First remedy that comes to mind (because I had to do it with my Endor 3) is to smear some Pritt Stick glue onto the print plate. Generously, too. Works a charm.

Gauntlet23 Jun 2022 5:46 a.m. PST

I would not recommend adding anything to bed, I just wipe it clean with ipa every dozen prints or so.

Most likely cause is the nozzle being too far from the bed. You can use the z offset in your slicer to lower the nozzle without relevelling. Try increments of 0.04mm at a time and see what happens. If it doesn't adhere cancel the print right away and adjust.

Star Blazer23 Jun 2022 6:05 a.m. PST

OK, different opinions. Just from experience, and All3DP even have a review article on the best kinds of stick glue to use.


Nick Bowler23 Jun 2022 6:51 a.m. PST

I'm with Gauntlet. Glue may work, but it is masking another issue -- probably nozzle related.

There are some youtubes on bed adhesion. Here is one to start with: YouTube link

SgtPain23 Jun 2022 8:14 a.m. PST

Before adding anything to the base plate, I would take a serious look at the following printer setting.

1. Make sure our build plate is LEVEL (follow manufacturer instructions)
2. Clean the base plate with denatured alcohol before printing.
3. check that you have the correct bed temperature for your filament.
4. Go into your slicer setting and turn on the use of a Brim or raft option.
5. Make sure your plate is LEVEL!!!

Cree197823 Jun 2022 8:50 a.m. PST

Mine works fine with the pla temp at 200 and the bed temp at 60 degrees whilst printing.

You should not need any glue or tape with the ultrabase. I always use the pre-heat function in the settings prior to initialising a print.

Levelling is key to getting this printer to work, and should be done with the bed at printing temperature as this will be the true level state of the bed whilst printing. When cooled the ultrabase has a habit of being concave or convex in the middle and the heat "levels" it out.

If you find me on Facebook (craig grady – blue suit wedding pic for ref) I can mail you some of my cura profiles that I use which may also help.


sgt Dutch24 Jun 2022 11:24 a.m. PST

Elmers purple glue stick. I have been just this for 4 yrs. I broke down and purchase the PEM flex plate from TH3D. Keep it clean and works perfectly

Star Blazer24 Jun 2022 4:47 p.m. PST

I'm sorry, but such a lot of Bleeped text being spouted here.

1st: Everyone assumes that the OP has failed to level his gear properly. Such an assumption sucks!… really
He says he has … why cast doubt?

2nd: Everyone assumes that Chironex doesn't know how to adjust his nozzle… yet nobody … none of you venerable 3D printers (sorry, I "am" having a chuckle here, because I think you're all effing amateurs! ,-)) … have asked whether Chironex has switched filament perhaps between OK prints and NOT-OK prints?

As for cleaning with IPA?
Why…? Clean with hot soapy water after every print (also cleans the glue off!). Why use an expensive commodity like IPA for filament cleaning? Unless you've messed up bad?

At the end of the day, Chironex, go resin mate!
Seriously, everything else is for kiddies (regardless of their age). SLA FTW M8!…

Gauntlet25 Jun 2022 8:04 a.m. PST

I clean with ipa rather than soap because it evaporates without residue. It costs like $2 USD for a couple years worth of use. Not really expensive.

For reference I probably use a tablespoon every week.

chironex26 Jun 2022 4:02 a.m. PST

I found I had to level the horizontal rails and then level the bed for the nth time while pre-heated. I had a massive improvement but it still isn't right.

What does "adjust nozzle" actually mean in this context? I hear that I have to microstep it down by around .2mm, is that what you mean? I just can't find where to do it, some say the control panel and some say the slicer (using cura right now). If you are expecting Sharp or KonicaMinolta quality installation manuals out of Anycubic you are going to be terribly disappointed.

I did indeed run out of filament and change reels, the brand is Monocure 3D, if that helps any. It's still PLA and the same diameter, though.

I added a default thickness brim, but many layers later it began to lift on one corner first, causing the first 3.5mm to warp. It seems to have straightened out on top about now, but the bottom is still badly deformed.

Someone suggested nail polish remover as it was 100% acetone, and I found I simply had some straight-up acetone so I used that.

Resin printing is another future goal, but is not cost-effective for a table full of scenery.

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