"Restoring old Napoleonics painted in enamels" Topic

Hi, I'm relatively new to TMP and hoping someone can help me.

I recently got my old Napoleonic wargames figures out of the loft in order to get back into the hobby. However around half of them were painted in enamels (oil based obviously) and the whites in particular have yellowed quite dramatically.

I've read that hydrogen peroxide can be used to restore faded oil paints but that is in the context of oil paintings.

Has anyone had this problem and managed to revive the white colours – even to some degree would look an awful lot better.

I've also heard of people mentioning "magic dip" but again no idea what that is, or how it works.

Any help appreciated.
Thanks
Karl

Karl

If I were you I would put the old figures back in the loft and buy some new figures and get started again.

Once you have done that get advice from your older more experienced mates about the value of your old figures. They may be worth saving perhaps by a collector.

If you are really keen you could strip off the old paint, that is a hassle and then repaint. Do you have enough of them to make up enough units?

Jim

If you want to strip them, try Super Kleen. It's available at auto parts stores in the states. It will go thru any paint like crap thru the proverbial goose. Just wear gloves.

If it was me, I'd give them a good spray matte, hit them with a wash to shade them--maybe Army Painters Strong Tone?--do a very quick dry brush with an acrylic white, then seal them again. Cheaper than new lead, a lot faster than repainting an army, and you can do a unit or so at a time while still having painted, based figures to play with. Do maybe a couple of dozen figures and see how they look before committing.

N.B. This assumes we're talking about white uniforms. If it's just belting, use a really thick white--maybe tube acrylic?--on the belts right down the center and don't worry if you miss the edges. Might want Strong Tone afterward, depending on what shading, if any, the figures now have.

No offense to Jim, but I find old figures fight just as well and are much less strain on the budget. These are toys, not "collectables." Once you're back into regular gaming and are satisfied with rules and basing it will be time enough to think about more fashionable figures.

Or just dry brush over the yellowed whites and repaint any other bits that need it.

The dip is a varnish and paint mix that you paint all over the figure and should settle in the 'folds' to create a shadowing effect. It dries quite glossy so if you prefer matt you need to matt varnish over it when it's dried.

You could also try ink washes or dilute paint wash for this sort of thing.

Don't walk away from them, my collection started with enamel from my teenage plastic models and have stripped many to bare metal and started over. Many are still as they are in enamels.
At least try a Battalion and what you want for paint stripper. I use Goof-Off and couple days and a old tooth brush and there as good as clean.

I applaud your desire to give new life to older figures. Doing so should save time and money as well as meaningfully update the original owner's painting efforts. Firstly, I have no idea about hydrogen peroxide helping. As to how to update the look of the existing paint, if the figures are not based, give them a quick wash in a solution of dishwashing detergent to remove any surface contamination. Dry them thoroughly and spray on clear matte finish (I like the Windsor Newton professional matte varnish), let dry, then go over yellowed areas with a good quality acrylic white or off white paint. You can give similar treatment with other colors to any other areas in need of repair or lightening. When the figures look suitably updated to your eye, coat them with whatever form of varnish you prefer. Good luck. I think you will enjoy the process of updating your figures.

Oh. And count your blessings if the white is the worst of it. All my initial 30mm Napoleonic armies were painted with Imrie/Risley long fiber paints. Eventually, every bit of I/R Brown turned florescent orange. Think backpacks, muskets--and horses. Almost every horse I owned.

If you are going to go over the white areas with a new white paintjob, or even a drybrush, be sure to look specifically for TITANIUM White. The problem with some whites is that the pigment yellows over time (as you saw). Titanium white does not have this problem. Whenever I need to paint anything in pure white, I ALWAY use titanium white, to avoid the very problem you described, over time.

Damon.

I agree with all those who support keeping veteran units in service.

I would try lining up units and looking at them from six feet or so. If they won't do I'd follow Gray Bear's advice.

Rebasing will often make old figures look a lot better.

If tempted to try hydrogen peroxide test it first on your least favourite figure.

If you are looking to STRIP the enamel, see here ;-)

TMP link

But be warned, you might be in for some work if you have a lot of minis to do. It does work great on glossy enamels (for matte enamels, just clean off built up areas, you can paint over it since it usually dries to form a flat surface anyway.)

Brake fluid works pretty well for paint stripping if you have a safe means to dispose of it afterward-- even works on styrene. If the figures are matte- varnished, though, I'd be inclined to simply repaint the whites (and I second the Titanium White acrylic recommendation) and give another coat of varnish.

Thanks for all the replies folks. Some interesting ideas in here.

I don't really fancy striping all the paint off and starting again but i might have a go at matt varnish then paint over poor bits with acrylics.

Good tip re Titanium white too , so thanks for that Garand and khanscom