"Do some manufacturers know what we do with the figures?" Topic

I don't want to single out particular manufacturers, but I keep wondering whether some of them have any grasp of the sheer impracticality of some figures that they sell.

I was prompted to post this after spending a decent chunk of the afternoon trying to glue figures to mdf bases. The particular figures that drew my ire on this occasion are leaning heavily forward with muskets pointing forward, so they just topple. Super glue eventually does the trick, but how long do I want to hold each figure in position until the glue takes (because it is pretty much impossible to prop the figures up)?

Then there are the figures on tiny little bases that twist out of shape. What about the cavalry with swords being held out at arm's length perpendicular to the direction the horse is going: try fitting those on bases next to each other. I call that pose "the wave that thing in my face again and I'll use it to cut you a new one" pose. Then there are the figures that is just about impossible to paint.

Surely, it is not too much to ask for sculptors and manufacturers to give some thought to basic practical issues.

End of rant.

Good remarks! This is why I limit myself with marching infantry and resting cavalry poses only.

AussieAndy, not trying to antagonise anyone, I suppose one thing to ask is what poses would you prefer. many figures these days seem to be in quite dynamic poses and I get your comments, what would you like to see done differently. I like dynamicly posed figures but maybe marching infantry and cavalry with shouldered weapons would fit better?
Maybe something others could add their comments to?

I don't mind whether the poses are static or dynamic as long as the poses are sensible. I mainly use 15mm figures. I prefer if the figures can stand up by themselves, as it makes them a lot easier to glue to bases, but I can cope with figures that have a lean, as long as it is not too extravagant (and there are not other impediments to painting or basing them).

AussieAndy, you missed the cavalrymen firing both pistols sideways, or the one with carbine shooting the man next to him. Both wonderful castings for cavalry formations. Then there's the old Airfix infantryman shooting snake. No, some of them haven't the remotest notion what the figures will be used for--which explains all the Cantina figures in the old West End Games Star Wars line, for instance.

Clegg, my answer is (1) the figure has to balance on the base, and (2) unless it's something like a Roman gladiator, a western gunfighter or a Napoleonic skirmisher, it has to look acceptable in a formation. Not asking much, and frequently I can't get it.

Warlord games has a Macedonian command set where the standard bearer has a bent knee, so to look as if its charging forward with a 45 degree angle. When placed on the table, the banner is facing directly into the table, making it impossible to see what's been applied to it. My solution was to sculpt a rock under foot so that the figure is now climbing an obstacle and is standing at a proper 90 degrees.

I have many many hundreds of Old Glory, and some of them notoriously are weirdly posed. BUT I'm getting them (in the bags of 30, with the army discount) at such an excellent price that I can set aside a few and still be way ahead. And it is kind of fun trying to figure out how best to use them. Sometimes all it takes, as others have said, is a little cutting and gluing.

Have to agree with AussieAndy, some figures have weird poses and others are really difficult to paint.

Figures which can't stand up on their own are the ones which get my goat. Figures with wildly flailing arms and I can probably live with, depending, but not so good for close order types.

Who on earth wants 'dynamic poses', these guys spent months doing drill exactly so they aren't dynamic. I suppose someone must buy them though.

Remember the white glue and CA trick for those leaning figures. Put a drop of white glue on the base, then CA on the bottom of the figure.

The white glue accelerates the CA so it bonds in maybe 20 seconds or so, and it also (I am told) strengthens the bond.

Handy trick for assembling pieces that won't stand up too.

Dynamically posed figures ae nice for irregular armies like Vikings or dervishes. I don't want my hoplites in poses like that, though. Just as a practical matter, the hoplite advancing beside you is probably the guy down the street, and yes, after the battle, he may well punch you out if you almost take his nose off thrusting your spear at a guy in front of the guy beside him.

I've started a band of Pathans that have one color on one side of a narrow space and another on the other side and wondering how I'm going to paint them. Don't get me started on the folks who design molds so the parting line runs right up the figure's face.

Grelber

AussieAndy:

You bring up a very good point and we will take it into consideration as we restore the Hamilton range of 15mm Napoleonics.

As a 15mm gamer, I was always irritated by the same things you described.

Cheers, Tumbleweed – The Viking Forge

Ditto Extra Crispy. In a pinch with no white glue at hand a little good old spit also works.

I have been getting more into dioramas and therefore want variety in my figures. On the other hand, sometimes I wonder who's idea a certain pose was as it seems unlikely. There is room for wargaming figures and added-variety figures, I believe, but I do understand your issue. Been there. Done that.

This has been "a puzzlement" to me since I took up gaming with miniatures in the late '60's. I was especially irked by the plastic minis of which I bought many boxes before I could afford metal figures. Remember the one holding his musket over his head as if wading a river, the other posed as if stabbing at a snake with his bayonet & the ever unpopular "clubbed musket" fig really suitable only for a diorama. Even when we were children playing with sets of Marx "toy soldiers" my friends & I thought these were useless figures.

Extra Crispy
What is CA?

My main beef is with stands that are either too small or too thin (thus having a tendency to warp) or both!

Art for art's sake can be a problem.

I remember that same problem cropping up years ago with computer games. We were told we couldn't make certain types of games because the technology wasn't there yet, they wouldn't be 'beautiful enough'. Then someone else made DOOM.

EC, you've been basing in single ranks again--which is fine until you think everyone else does. You don't want to superglue to a painting stick, but only to the final base--and even then, it only works really well if you're using sheet metal bases.

Glengarry, cyanoacetate--AKA superglue.

Art for art's sake is fine, Bill. But any casting sold to me is commercial art.

The ones with the sword straight out sideways – bend the arm! The ones shooting to one side (I have lots of horse archers like that) are meant to be in a circle.

Ones leaning forward I usually manage to prop up until the glue dries, even if only with blue-tac. And put them towards the back of the base, otherwise the whole base will tip over !

I always wondered about the Hinton Hunt / Der Kriegspielers "Utility Pose" – guy standing holding out his musket to the side, as if in response to the command "everyone hand your gun to the man on your right!"

I think CA is cyanoacrylate

I find that the newer figs are much more user friendly – agree that the "Hey Steve!" figures that populated Old Glory packs were a little tough to figure out what to do with – my other complaint would be the teeny tiny bases on some of the older Foundry figs – impossible to stand unless strongly glued down

I've gotten pretty creative with finding ways to prop up minis. while the glue is taking hold.

I generally look around for a book or some other rectangular object that is about the right height and I just prop all the figures up against it until they are dry.

I also found that what helps with figures that are at extreme angles or on tiny bases to use TWO different types of glue at the same time. In other words, use a dab of super glue along with a dab of a tacky-type glue right next to it. Sometimes that tackiness can hold the figure to the base as the super glue uses the 30 seconds or so it needs to get a hold.

I recommend an accelerator. This works for me.

auction

link

I have some 28mm Old Glory Marines circa 1899 that have their heads facing one way and their rifles pointing in the opposite direction. Reminds me of "The Exorcist" movie scene.

For Old Glory figures, what does this "Hey Steve!" pose mean?