"1:285 Vehicles for France 1940?" Topic

There seem to be a lot of gaps in the transport vehicles commonly used in France 1940. Does anyone know of a company producing any of these?

• Sd.Kfz 251/1 (the early German armoured infantry transport)
• Laffly S20 TL (the transport used by the French Dragon Portés mechanized infantry)

GHQ does an early 251/1 and 251/10 C, but I don't know of anyone producing the A or B version.

GHQ also does the S15, but they don't do the S20. I would also like to find this vehicle in 1:285.

Mark

SdKfz 251/1 Ausf. C doesn't work for France 1940, sadly.

Scotia does make the 251 B

link

and Scotia also makes the S20

link

Mark

That's brilliant, thanks Mark!

Just found another source for the 251/1C:

link

Legions IV Hire makes the Sdkfz 251B model which is an early type.

For the Laffley S20 TL, I would also suggest checking out Masters of Military (vendor) at the Shapeways 3D Print webstore.

link

The link is to a 4-set of Laffley S20 TLs. They make larger and smaller sets, and also have several other Laffley variants.

I have not seen these particular models, but the other MofM models I have bought so far have impressed me quite a bit.

To wit:

My MofM French Char D1 tanks.

My MofM French Renault Model 1934 city buses. (Roof rack and cargo is my own addition.)

My MofM Italian Autocannonne da 75 su TL37s, shown here with a GHQ Sahariana in the background to give a comparison. (Crew figures are my own additions.)

I have found the prices to be acceptable for specifically desired specialized vehicles (a bit more than GHQ, a bunch more than Scotia). Service has been very good so far. Quality is excellent. I consider it on-par with GHQ, C-in-C and the new H&R stuff, which I place in a higher tier than the quality I have received from Scotia and older H&R models.

The caveats are first that the models are VERY light in weight. I mean I am concerned that a breeze will blow them off of the table kind of light. Even the big models like the Renault buses. I am considering how to add weights underneath, they are so light. Second is that the thin parts seem rather flimsy. I have not had any breakage yet, but those barrels worry me. Still, it's not like cast metal tanks do lose barrels from time-to-time, so I already have the skills of replacing barrels if needed.

I do suggest you look into them. For myself, I have planned that, when and if I try to build out a DLM force, I will go with these vehicles for my Dragons Portees.

Your tankage may vary.

-Mark
(aka: Mk 1)

For Laffly: Heroics and Ros + Scotia Grendel
Especially for 20TL (Scotia Grendel).
I have painted some Laffly:
F12 – AMD white Laffly type 50 A-C
link
F30 – Laffly V15R Recce Car
link
F16 – Laffly W 15 TCC tank hunter + 47mm
link
FS0026 – Laffly S20TL 6x6 Tractor
link
FS0027 – Laffly S20TL Command
link

For 251/1, again Scotia Grendel.
link

In 6mm at tabletop distances, no one can tell the differences among the Sd.Kfz 251s. I'm not obsessive enough to worry about this.

The caveats are first that the models are VERY light in weight. I mean I am concerned that a breeze will blow them off of the table kind of light. Even the big models like the Renault buses. I am considering how to add weights underneath, they are so light.

One way to add weight (and strength) is to base them. If you're totally against utterly, completely, totally ruining the appearance with bases like I am you can try to add weight to the miniature instead.

One thing I've done to add weight to small 3D prints (e.g. 1/2400 ships) is to fill them with powdered lead. It's sold by golfing outlets like this one for adding weight to golf balls. I get it to stick by pouring it in, then dripping extremely thin superglue on it. Super-thin CA glue fuses almost instantaneously with the lead powder because of the extreme capillary action, which is convenient but also renders the process a bit tricky. The glue can form a crust over unfused powder if the lead dust is too thick, and it can also leave unfused glue if you drip in too much (which overflows and sticks your fingers to the plastic. Some guidelines to help prevent problems:

• Do this operation after cleaning the 3D print, but before painting.
  
• Use a narrow applicator tip on the superglue bottle to better control the flow.
  
• On a taller object like that bus, do the operation on thin layers of lead powder. You also really want it to fuse the lead and the walls of the plastic simultaneously, so adding dust in thin layers and fusing each in turn is a good idea.

As extra insurance against the lead escaping later, you can always coat the bottom with acrylic compound or spackle or putty, to seal it in and make it paintable.

- Ix

@Yellow Admiral,

A share your hatred of unnecessary basing, but powdered lead? (…) IMHO that's a health disaster waiting to happen, especially if you are sloppy about using and storing it. FWIW.

What about a small chunk of lead, inserted into a drilled hole?

MH