PMGeuze | 10 Oct 2005 6:01 a.m. PST |
I have recently read a number of posts that recommended using Ceramcoats as an alternative for the expensive hard to find paints. Since I am simply painting wargame quality 15mm and 20mm Ancients and World War II, it seemed like a great idea. I have come to a slight problem about matching colors for some of the World War II colors that usually come in the "English Uniform" bottles from the higher priced paints. Have you found the best mixes for some of the craft paints, and do you think we can make a master list of good colors to encourage others to try? English uniform: (makes the light green/brown color) 1/2 Timberline Green 1/2 Territorial Brown Touch of Future and water |
Grumbling Grognard | 10 Oct 2005 7:18 a.m. PST |
Sorry while I have been using cheap craft paints for decades and painting figs for even longer (anyone else remember using oils?) I don't use and have never used any sort of "color chart". I just use a paint pallet to mix them up and an eyeball to match the colors. Good luck, GG |
Saber6  | 10 Oct 2005 7:59 a.m. PST |
|
Cacique Caribe | 10 Oct 2005 8:26 a.m. PST |
PMGeuze, Try this link: link CC |
aecurtis  | 10 Oct 2005 8:45 a.m. PST |
I've been painting for a fair while, too, and thought I had heard of everything. But the idea of using a pallet is something I'm having a hard time getting my brain around. Does one paint in a reclining position whilst lying upon the pallet? I've tried that, and I thought it was uncomfortable as all get out. Or is it a shipping pallet? Does one break it up into little sticks and stir the paint with them? Allen (always willing to try new ideas) |
Cacique Caribe | 10 Oct 2005 8:56 a.m. PST |
Allen, The problem with pallets is all those splinters! :) CC |
rmcaras  | 10 Oct 2005 9:11 a.m. PST |
anyone else print the ceramcoat color chart and have the color sqaures missing/empty? i get the color titles, but not the colors themselves. I know they may not reflect the actual color because of printer ink limitations, but it would be nice to get some representation between light/dark which one can't discern from the unusual titles. |
Cacique Caribe | 10 Oct 2005 9:16 a.m. PST |
I don't trust my printer to faithfully duplicate the shades, so I am planning on contacting the company for a hard copy of their chart. CC |
Seventhcav | 10 Oct 2005 12:57 p.m. PST |
At the store they should have a chart there for you to look at. If not ask for one. I use the colors but it is sometimes hit and miss on how I find a the right color. |
Sgt Slag  | 10 Oct 2005 2:44 p.m. PST |
My recommendation is to invest in a color wheel. The craft paints are less than a US-dollar per bottle. I picked up the basic colors I needed, then I use the color wheel to make up the rest. If you have samples of the desired tint, just work with the color wheel, and the inexpensive paints, and you will be able to reproduce whatever you want/need, with a small amount of practice. Also, if you are painting to a gaming standard, I question how critical is the color matching? If you want accurate color matching, I suspect you've moved beyond the 'gaming standard' already. ;-) I would also submit that not every uniform is identical, in reality, due to variations in dyes used for making the fabrics. If you are using the Magic Wash/Dip Techniques, then you need to compensate for the darkening effect these will have on the paint, as well. As always, experimentation is king! Cheers! |
Hacksaw | 10 Oct 2005 7:00 p.m. PST |
PMGeuze, if I read you right, you are after more of a "pattern book" or "recipe" listing, rather then a straight chart of craft paint colours, correct? I'll echo what has been said in this thread about developing a "colour eye", ie: looking at a shade and having a good idea of what things to mix to achieve that
but at the same time I like to keep a pattern book of what mixes I have used that resulted in colours I really liked. Keeps me from trying to reinvent the wheel, and it makes matching the existing paint for touch ups on a damaged figure painted some time ago a bit easier. I have Timberline Green, but I dont have any Territorial Brown
its off to AC Moores this weekend. I have Brits to paint and your mix sounds like its as good a starting point as any. I'll always spend 88 cents on some new paint :-) |
PMGeuze | 10 Oct 2005 9:15 p.m. PST |
Hacksaw, Yes you are correct, I placed the question poorly. I am familiar with the color chart that Delta offers, but like most painters, I have a list of color combos that I like to write down as the "perfect" shades for what my feeble color eye can find. Of course in my case of using a wood door as a painting desk, I do simply write the colors down on the door. This works until I spill paint over a combination of colors! But I think that there is enough experience out there amoungst the readers that we should be able to make a pattern book for others to experiment with. |
mandt2 | 11 Oct 2005 6:53 a.m. PST |
I have a 3-ring binder with dividers. Each divider for a different war, genre, or scale. Scale makes a big difference ya know. When I find (or mix) a color that's right, I note the mix, or particular color on a sheet of paper and keep it in the book. I update it as needed. Mr. Monk would be proud. |
MachewR | 11 Oct 2005 7:43 a.m. PST |
Try Fawn from Folk Art. It is a lighter shade of Dark Earth. Add Americana's True Ochre to it and you can have variations for US jackets. Add a little for tannish color and more for a golden color. Haven't tried it, but I suppose some Timberline would give it that greenish hue that Vallejo Khaki has. |
PMGeuze | 13 Oct 2005 9:34 a.m. PST |
MachewR was kind enough to add to the list with a painting pattern that I also wanted to add a photo of how my color worked out. The photo is at this picture while the whole post is at this link |
mindenbrush | 22 Oct 2005 3:40 a.m. PST |
I have 11 copies of the Delta Ceramcote Acrylic paints "Shades of Color". These are colour prints of the three shades normally used in creating a shaded effect using Ceramcote paint. For British Uniforms the chart would suggest English Yellow Green, Timberline Green, Light Timberline Green or Avocado, Olive Yellow, Olive Yellow/White or Hammered Iron, Mustard, Mustard/White. If you want a copy I can post one out to you. |