"GW Contrast Paints" Topic
7 Posts
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Beaky Nose | 06 Jul 2021 1:10 p.m. PST |
So I've seen the great work others have done with Contrast Paints on their historicals and I'd like to give it a go myself. Some colours I can work out by looking at them, but can anyone suggestion good colours in the range for: 1. European flesh 2. A bright yellow. 3. Best way to do white. Thanks very much all. |
Chimpy | 06 Jul 2021 2:18 p.m. PST |
1. Guilliman Flesh. I find best applied thinly over white undercoat (Vallejo) 2. Iyanden Yellow – again over white undercoat. 3. Apothecary White over white undercoat and highlighted with white. Can't guarantee that this is the best way but it's what I do. If I'm feeling lazy (most of the time) I skip the white highlight. |
Martian Root Canal | 06 Jul 2021 2:19 p.m. PST |
1. Guilliman Flesh over white or wraithbone primer 2. Iyanden Yellow over white or wraithbone primer 3. Primer white, then use Apothecary White over the top |
Mr Elmo | 06 Jul 2021 6:28 p.m. PST |
1. Grey Seer, Guiliman flesh, Kislev Flesh and Flayed One Flesh Highlights 2. Wraithbone, Iyanden Yellow, Flash gits yellow highlight 3. Wraithbone, Apothecary White, White Scar highlight |
jwebster | 06 Jul 2021 6:52 p.m. PST |
I have had mixed results with contrast paints, as have some other people I talked to My experience so far
- Flesh – don't use contrast paints. I have tried Guiliman flesh over a couple of different base colours, and haven't liked any of the results
- I haven't experimented with yellow, but it's a difficult colour to get right. I would expect that a pale yellow base (not contrast) and a dark yellow contrast paint would do well, but I haven't tried it, nor am I likely to with the big buck costs of contrast paints
- Apothecary white is a waste of time. It puts a very pale grey into the shadows, leading to almost no contrast on the mini
I have seen several reviews of contrast paints where they completely misunderstand the use of them, but still recommend them. They should not be used on large smooth surfaces and I can't see the point of airbrushing with them. I've also seen articles where they use contrast paints and then 5-6 layers of highlights
In case you think I am just plain negative, I have had excellent results from
- Snakebite leather
- Blood angels red
- Orc flesh
John |
HansPeterB | 06 Jul 2021 8:44 p.m. PST |
I've been using contrast paints extensively over the past year and like them a lot, but they do have limitations. For the most part, my experience is much like John's above. 1. Flesh: base coast a pale flesh then Guillman flesh then go back and highlight with flesh again (and add another highlight if you want it to look really good.) 2.Bright yellow: A really bright yellow is tough, and here I would just paint bright yellow, wash and highlight. You could use Iyandin yellow, but honestly a good yellow wash will do the job. 3. White: Not a fan of contrast white -- you'll get much better results from layering/blending. As with many paints, there is a learning curve w/contrasts, which is made steeper by the fact that different colors have very different properties. If you haven't invested in some of the contrast medium, though, you should do so: some of the paints work much better thinned down. |
John Leahy | 07 Jul 2021 2:55 a.m. PST |
Make your own. Goobertown Hobbies on Youtube has a video on how to do so. Take 1 part Matte Medium fluid, 1 part ink and a few drops of flow-aid. Bingo, contrast paints. I bought 100 Vallejo style bottles from amazon and have made up 30 bottles of contrast paints so far. I use mainly Dowler Raney and Amsterdam acrylic inks. Amsterdam are also at Hobby Lobby. They run 6 to 8 bucks for one ounce. Matte Medium 8 ounce bottle is 9 bucks from Amazon. I tend to buy from Dick Blick who have good prices and sales. I own about 33 different inks. There are more available. Thanks John |
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