"My Miniature Figure Basing Technique" Topic

My Miniature Figure Basing Technique – On My Blog

Over the years I have had many types of techniques. Probably the one I used the longest was just plain flocking. I would paint the base green and then after it was dry apply a good wash of watered down white glue, put the base into a cigar box filled with Woodland Scenic's T44 Burnt Grass. Click to see it!

(Above image is of flocking based Kallistra Miniatures)

Along the way I recall writing an article for Hal Thinglum's magazine "Midwest Wargamers Newsletter". I titled the article "Free Basing like the Brits" (a 90's thing). In that period I was using spackling compound to fill in the area around the figure base. Once the spackle had dried I would wash it with a medium brown. When the wash had dried I used watered down white glue and flocked to taste (later I discovered I could add the paint right to the spackle before I applied it). The overall effect was pleasing to the eye.

You can read the whole post here and thank you for doing so :)

Chris

link

interesting – thanks

Thank you for taking a moment to comment. It always means a lot to us.

Hello greenknight4,

Very fine basing. I use hard sheet plastic as a basing material (when a record and CD shop went out of business I purchased the sheet plastic they used as dividers). I have used paint, flock and kitty litter for stones. I am determined to use some Dap spackle, flock and static grass on my next project (WWI). Your article will help a lot.

Cheers!

Gallo

Very useful. Many thanks!

I use Litko bases with art shop paste, in a slightly different coarseness depending on whether I am doing microarmour or 15mm.

I use lightweight sparkling compound. I mix it with water and brown craft paint to create a paste. I apply the paste to my base. Then cover it in flock and press the flock down with the side of an Xacto knife or a tongue depressor. This seats the flocking into the paste, so that when that dries the flocking sticks (of course there will also be loose flocking that can be easily knocked off).

Adding the paint to the spackle does two things. First, I don't have to paint it. Second, if something chips out some of the flocking, the ensuing whole will be brown, not white. I should also point out that the stands are also painted brown for just this purpose.

I am amazed how useful the tip of adding paint to spackle is. It's worked for me with spackle, water putty and Milliput. As far as I can tell, it barely changes the final hardness and toughness. I don't add too much paint, ink and other high pigment additives work best. Mserafin, I second the motion as far as chipping, it doesn't really show if the spackle is already earth colored.

Cheers!

Gallo

Gallocelt:

Never underestimate the power of laziness.

Mark

What some call "lazy", others call "smart!" :)

Cheers!

Gallo

Lots of great comments. The cool thing about adding paint to your spackle or other similar mediums is that if the medium should crack the exposed are is probably still the new color not white.

I haven't done this step in years. In my younger days it was all about using squadron putty to fill in all around the figure base.

@Gallocelt

Your plastic sheeting idea for basing sounds interesting. I use 3mm ply such as Litko uses. I currently have my bases done for me by Allan Wright. I like rounded bases.

Hello greenknight4,

I'm not sure what kind of plastic was used for record / CD dividers back in the day but I can tell you a little more about it. The pieces I have (and I have a lot!) are all white in color. The plastic is about 1.3mm thick. Once deeply scored with an x-acto knife, the plastic can be folded and will snap off fairly clean. Acrylic paint sticks to the surface pretty well and especially well if given a coat of finishing spray. I believe this plastic is very similar to the sheets of plastic that are available in hobby stores that sell railroad modeling supplies. I think it's basically the same stuff. As far as making rounded bases, this is possible but you'd have to have lots of patience or be willing to file or sand the corners to get the rounded effect.

Oh, and by the way, I understand that Sintra and other 3mm expanded PVC is also used as a basing material. See the Youtube video:

YouTube link

Cheers!

Gallo

Cheers!

Gallo

@Gallo

I meant to add you could probably leave a white strip in the rear and use dry erase pens for info :)

BTW that was a good video and I watch The Terrain Tutor a lot ;)

YouTube link

@ greenknight4

Hey now, that's a good idea with a dry erase pen on white plastic. Still not sure how I will enter unit information. I might do that on the movement tray but I could leave a section of clean, white plastic on that.

Cheers!

Gallo