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"Contrast Paint experimentation with Perrys 28mm" Topic


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16 Jun 2021 10:03 a.m. PST
by Editor in Chief Bill

  • Changed title from "Contrast Paint experimentation with Perrys 28 mm" to "Contrast Paint experimentation with Perrys 28mm"

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Comments or corrections?

von Winterfeldt16 Jun 2021 7:07 a.m. PST

I bought several of those GW paints, the idea is to accelerate painting without cutting too much quality – I used Perrys Plastics Bardin French, an older plastic set – where casualties could be accepted.

I used Corax White as primer (which I wouldn't do again, there is makes some of the paints look very faded, I have to try out the other recommended primers from GW.

Mainly I used to paints out of the pot along with a wet palette and thinned down some of the darker paints with Contrast Medium.

The Contrast paints provide a very thin and delicate paint layer.

Also I did mix quite a bit to achieve the desired hue, like after one miniature in pure Leviadon blue – then a mix with Ultramarines blue.

On one of the Swiss miniatures I did use a wash of Alys Brown Liquid, the other is just Blood Angels red with a bit of Gryph Hound Orange.

As for the faces, I used all three flesh colours and on some few faces I added on top conventional flesh paints to improve, so let me know if you could spot them.

Those miniatures with a brown base, I did paint conventional on and off at my usual painting sessions, to try out some techniques, so there is a direct comparison.

There is certainly room for improvement but first let's see how those miniatures turned out.

The only exception are the miniatures in white uniform, which I had to paint conventionally – as all the white belts and straps etc, there I could not stand the result of Apothecary White and yes the name of the paints suck.

Also they have to be shaken vigorously so that no pigment is visible at the bottom of the containers.

I tried not to overdo it, like painting Ns on the turn backs – but still do a decent clean paint job.

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khanscom16 Jun 2021 7:18 a.m. PST

Excellent!

79thPA Supporting Member of TMP16 Jun 2021 7:37 a.m. PST

Top-notch work.

Perris070716 Jun 2021 7:51 a.m. PST

Yeah. That is really good work.

Prince Rupert of the Rhine16 Jun 2021 7:55 a.m. PST

That is the first time I've seen contrast paints look really good. The other examples I've seen out there have ranged from passable to whoops. You obviously have the knack.

It reminds of a few years back when Army Painter dip was all the rage I only ever saw one guy, Phil Hendry, really nail it with his lovely Persian and Roman armies.My own dipped armies always looked like crap frankly.

Londonplod Supporting Member of TMP16 Jun 2021 8:03 a.m. PST

Wonderful work, you really have shown us what can be achieved with contrast paints.

dapeters16 Jun 2021 8:12 a.m. PST

I think it ironic that theses paints were marketed to beginner painters, but it the really good experienced painters who are using them and saving time. Good job

jabbadabbadan Supporting Member of TMP16 Jun 2021 8:35 a.m. PST

Just, wow.

Shagnasty Supporting Member of TMP16 Jun 2021 9:53 a.m. PST

Very nice work.

Oddball16 Jun 2021 10:00 a.m. PST

Ya, wow. You got it Jab.

Sajiro16 Jun 2021 11:17 a.m. PST

Holy cow, those look great!

When you work out a system for painting ACW Union troops using those contrast paints, let me know.

Personal logo Sgt Slag Supporting Member of TMP16 Jun 2021 11:55 a.m. PST

I recommend using an inexpensive Jig Saw as a paint mixer. It can mix paint incredibly well, incredibly fast, for little money (<$30 for a new Saw at Harbor Freight). You can use masking tape to secure paint bottles to a standard blade, or you can use a small clamp (search YouTube for videos demonstrating this method).

Your painting is superb. I do not care to game with such well painted mini's, however. In every game I've played in, since 1992, mini's always seem to get damaged in play -- not many, but always a few. I had a friend, in the 90's, who painted for Reaper, and other makers. His painting averaged 10-12 hours, per figure! I damaged a couple in one of his games. We were both uncomfortable with the situation. Life happens, but it left a mental mark forever. I am always careful, but I am indelibly Human…

This is one of the better reasons I paint to GEtGW standard for myself: some of my mini's always end up damaged, and I hate re-painting. Since I paint to a lower standard, fixing damaged mini's is much easier and faster.

I am a dyed-in-the-wool Dip painter. This aids in preventing handling damage, but it is not foolproof, either -- nothing is.

Enjoy your labors, enjoy your games! Cheers!

Personal logo Zeelow Supporting Member of TMP16 Jun 2021 1:22 p.m. PST

Beautiful model painting!

Fanch du Leon16 Jun 2021 1:55 p.m. PST

These are simply the best Contrast painted figures i've ever seen. I use some of these to speed up my productivity, but i'ver never succeeded to use their blues or reds.

mpanko16 Jun 2021 2:24 p.m. PST

Which brown did you use on some of the greatcoats? They look very nice

myxemail16 Jun 2021 2:28 p.m. PST

Those figures look fantastic. Very good lighting for the photos as well.
How much time did you save using the contrast paints? What is your estimate of time per figure? And would you use contrast paints again, if so, what would you do differently?
I will say it again, those figures look fantastic!

Mike

Oberlindes Sol LIC Supporting Member of TMP16 Jun 2021 6:30 p.m. PST

Best results with contrast paints I've seen yet!

CeruLucifus16 Jun 2021 11:56 p.m. PST

Those look great.

von Winterfeldt17 Jun 2021 5:03 a.m. PST

Thanks for the feed back so far, it was my first try to paint with Contrast paints, some of them are quite easy to work with, while others, predominately the dark colours don't give any big contrast out of the pot.

As I said, another primer might yield better results.

As for highlights – this is more difficult to achieve, but what I found worked quite acceptable is, that the paints stays for a short while water solvable and in case you go over the desired highlight area – you could sort of create it. Also a synthetic brush helps here to take off some paint.

My usual working process would be

white priming
heavy wash with nature umbra or very dark violett
block painting the basic colours in a light hue – leaving out the shadows (folds etc.,)
glazing with artist water colours (with flow aid) and taking ways the water colours with a wet brush to create highlights.

Here, white primer and then Contrast paint. OK the result not as good as with the conventional method, but more or less acceptable.

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Those above painted in the conventional way, at the moment I cannot see a way to replicate this with Contrast work so more experimentation is needed, and then I can live with a lesser standard as above photos there on the other hand I reduce painting time by a half.

Personal logo SHaT1984 Supporting Member of TMP17 Jun 2021 3:47 p.m. PST

Interesting, thanks for the guidance vW.
The figures look great in the photos, but your perception is keener than we can observe.
I will stick to mine for now, having gone through 3 major changes in paints over a long time period, another not on the cards.
BTW, I think you mean 'soluble' ;-)
cheers d

von Winterfeldt18 Jun 2021 5:31 a.m. PST

indeed soluble – which I initially wrote but "corrected" there solvable made more sense to my non anglophone brain.

I also realize that I expressed myself badly.

My conventional method

white primer
heavy wash with natural umber or dark violet of artist acrylic colours
block painting, in a lighter colour – like light blue (for later dark blue) – sparing shadows and borders.
Glazing with artist water colours and flow improver and then taking off the water colour at the "lights" with a wet brush


Contrast paints
White primer
Contrast paint

(did not work for white)

It is evident that a lot of times is saved, however quality is suffering, still outcome is ok.

But in the end much more experimentation is required, first steps are done.

MarbotsChasseurs18 Jun 2021 10:03 a.m. PST

Well done vW!

Sadly, your ok is better than my best try at 28mm. I shall stick with my 6mm. Do you think contrast paints would work for 6mm?

Michael

von Winterfeldt18 Jun 2021 10:46 p.m. PST

I wouldn't change to Contrast paints, continue with your usual method, this worked fine.

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