"Help Painting a Red 1800’s cannon carriage over black primer" Topic

As the title states, I'm trying to paint a Red 18th century cannon carriage over black primer. I've tried several mfgr paints and colors and I'm not pleased with the way any of them look or with the coverage. Any assistance with mfgr's, colors, and techniques would be most appreciated! Thank you for taking the time to read this post.

Damp brush white first.

Yea, if I prime black but need a yellow or a red, I will generally paint white over black. If I want a dull red, I'll paint a couple of coats over black.

You can also spray prime in red and then apply a black or brown wash then highlight.

The only reason to use black primer on artillery equipment is if you intend to use the dry brushing technique. Otherwise, try Grey primer.

Use vallejo mahogany brown followed by their red leather and dry brush deep vermillion. Comes up a treat over any colour of primer.

Agree with above. Red paints are translucent so you need a buffer coat underneath. Suggestions above are all good. I use white buffer when I want a pure red. Usually I want a warmer red and use a beige or red brown buffer. For a neutral tone on painted equipment, a gray undercoat may serve well.

First paint it PINK, then Red.

Tony

Agree with wise advice above – I myself pretty much always prime red or yellow with white or light grey

Thanks guys, I will try out the advice! Much appreciated!!!

Over black primer, which I use all the time, paint a base coat of Burgundy red and then paint a bright fiery red over that as a highlight coat. Use this method all the time and it looks great.

For red on black undercoat I've had good results mixing dark brown with my red paint as a first base coat. I find Revell Aqua colour and Games Workshop reds give good coverage on black undercoats. On the other hand Army painter reds are awful over black undercoat.

Over black I usually do a red/brown undercoat before putting red over the top (as noted above, it is translucent).

Despite what they look like, most colours are made with degree of opacity- reds and yellows are notoriously thin mostly and need the body of a 'stiffener' below them. Black isn't. It absorbs colour like a black hole does.

So you need white under red; and fawn/tan under yellow; brown under gold; then if you really must have a dark edge, you edge with your black or dark grays. Works for me.

(I did colour matching in the crude printing industry 30 years ago, so have a little techcnical background… that was when heavy metal components (heard of titanium white- yes it IS!) and others were being subverted by 'artificial and organic' colourings/ pigments, not at all to the liking of many customers (ie big brands etc.))

\cheers d