Help support TMP


"d20 Globe Project - old DM article, issue 48" Topic


5 Posts

All members in good standing are free to post here. Opinions expressed here are solely those of the posters, and have not been cleared with nor are they endorsed by The Miniatures Page.

Please don't make fun of others' membernames.

For more information, see the TMP FAQ.


Back to the Fantasy RPG Message Board


Areas of Interest

Fantasy

Featured Hobby News Article


Featured Link


Top-Rated Ruleset

Fantasy Warriors


Rating: gold star gold star gold star gold star gold star gold star gold star gold star gold star 


Featured Showcase Article

Cheap Undead Dinos II

Back to the dollar store for more dinosaur skeleton action.


Featured Profile Article

Mighty Armies: Tweaking the Border Dwarves

Personal logo Editor in Chief Bill The Editor of TMP Fezian tweaks the Border Dwarves army list for Mighty Armies.


898 hits since 11 May 2021
©1994-2022 Bill Armintrout
Comments or corrections?

Personal logo Sgt Slag Supporting Member of TMP12 May 2021 12:55 p.m. PST

I bought several 1-inch hex grid sheets, from The Armory, back in the late 1980's with the idea of putting together a d20 globe of my game world, using the pattern found in Dragon Magazine issue 48, pages 28-29, "Getting a world into shape," by Karl Horak.

Image of the article.

I drew up my world map on one of the sheets, then I employed some tricks I learned in my Middle School industrial arts -- printing class: if you use cellophane tape to hold artwork (letters, photo's, etc.) onto a master copy sheet, the tape, and the edges, will not show up in a photocopy (or on a printing plate made with a Process Camera). I printed out labels for land masses, oceans and seas, and even the Equator, and the Tropic of Humanis (northern hemisphere) and the Tropic of Draconis (southern hemisphere). I made these labels using a word processor, printed them out on white paper, then I cut them out, and I mounted them on my camera art copy, using Scotch Tape.

I ran the camera art copy through a large format photocopier (these are available at office supply companies, such as Office Max, and similar places). I made several copies, so I would not need to come back if I ran into problems in the process.

I colored one copy with pencils: the water, the land masses, etc. It was a t-e-d-i-o-u-s process… Back then, when I did this (early 1990's), all I had access to was a B&W large format copier. Modern large format copiers can enlarge/reduce, and they are capable of color!

I attempted to mount 1mm thick cardboard on the backs of the triangles, to provide support. I further covered the front surface (colored pencils) with clear Con-Tact Paper (translucent vinyl cupboard shelf liner, Wal-Mart), which would protect it from water, and it would allow me to use water-based pens to mark it, if necessary.

The vinyl covering made it durable, but it also made it difficult to handle. The 1mm thick cardboard was nowhere near strong enough. I successfully stapled some of the tabs together, to form it into a d20, as a test, but then I realized it would never hold together, properly.

Image of my first, failed, attempt.

Fast forward to today. I hatched a new plan to cut up triangles out of MDF, to glue to the back, inside the d20. I need a Chop/Miter Saw to make these accurately, and I hope to pick one up, within the next two weeks. I will cut strips of MDF on my Table Saw, mark them for the triangular cuts needed, then make those with the Chop Saw.

The old map is pretty hashed. I will take one of the copies of it, and experiment with water color paints to color it: much faster than coloring with pencils, will give better texture to the map, and it will have more vibrant colors. I will take the colored copy to the local office supply store, to make new, color copies (will be flat, unlike the dried, painted original), and then I will proceed with one of these for the next step.

I will cover it with clear Contact Paper again, then I will use an X-bead of PVA/Wood Glue to attach the MDF triangles to the inside of the form, pressing them with some books, until they dry. I will then Hot Glue the triangles together along the edges: much faster, easier, and less mess, than using PVA/Wood Glue.

When fully assembled, I will have a d20 globe of my fantasy world. It is really to inspire me, the DM, as opposed to inspiring my players. They have only visited two continents of my world [all campaigns have been placed in Cegia (size of Continental USA); there have been a few toe-dips into Sauria (Eur-Asia sized continent)], in the past 30+ years. I do not expect them to visit any of the other regions, but who knows. If they voice an interest, I will need to come up with the cultures for those regions… Woo-Hoo!!!

I will post updates as the project progresses. Cheers!

Personal logo Sgt Slag Supporting Member of TMP21 May 2021 7:22 p.m. PST

Bought some school watercolor paints at Wal-Mart, tonight. First tried experimenting on a corner cut-off of one of my map copies. Soon realized I needed to experiment on a copy of the map. Ran off a copy of one of the large island groups on my map, to try some real techniques, on real images I need to paint.

Here are some samples of what I achieved:


1. Original photocopy, colored with pencils, covered with clear Contact-Paper.
2. Watercolor painted photocopy of a section of the final map.
3. Left: color photocopy of watercolor painted map; Right: original watercolor painted copy.
4. Watercolor set of school paints, from Wal-Mart. Used the included brush -- why not?


Thoughts, comments, input?

I did discover that if I am careful, I can control where the watercolors go. I also discovered that I need to be very careful wielding the brush, as well as managing the water content of the brush!

Furthermore, I discovered that I need to do something with the lettering of the oceans, and likely the land masses, as well: the watercolor tends to wipe them out! More experimentation is necessary. I am thinking that if I ran over them with colored pencils, it might keep the watercolor paint from covering them up? Gotta try -- only way to know. I could also outline them with a different, lighter color, to outline them, and to protect them -- would work more for the oceans, would not work for the land masses. Hmmm… Cheers!

Personal logo Sgt Slag Supporting Member of TMP24 May 2021 1:22 p.m. PST

I got some feedback on two other forums. They suggested using Windsor & Newton water-based inks, in place of watercolor paints: truly transparent, easier to work with.

I suspect I will use both: the more opaque watercolor paints will work well enough for rendering the mountains, and possibly some grassland regions; the truly transparent inks will work superbly to color the vast oceans, and the bigger swaths of continental regions. I hope to use a mixture of lighter and darker blue inks, to show ocean depths, to a degree. Essentially I want to show the continental shelves around the continents, as much as possible. Hoping to pick up some water-based inks, tonight, at Michael's.

One person posted this image, which was done with watercolor paints. I hope to re-create the white borders (white pencil to repel the ink/watercolor paints?), as that has a really nice effect…

picture

Cheers!

Personal logo Sgt Slag Supporting Member of TMP25 May 2021 8:03 p.m. PST

As My Stomach Churns! Episode #23:

So I bought some watercolor Inks: transparent Daler Rowney Aquafine Inks, Leaf Green, Cadmium Yellow, and Phthalo Blue. Gorgeous colors, fun to play with. The Phthalo Blue is uber-dark. I will need to experiment with diluting it with water, to see if I can lower the pigment density -- a lot!

Ink Bottles

I played with applying them, using my $0.04 USD School Paint Brushes, 30 in a pack. I was genuinely surprised how easy it was to control the application of the ink! I really could color within the lines, with minimal effort! I experimented, and I learned that the Leaf Green, overlaid with Phthalo Blue, gives a nice turquoise green color, which I like for demarking the Continental Shelf regions, around the land masses.

Land Mass Image #1

I experimented with overlaying the Cadmium Yellow and the Leaf Green, on the land masses, for grasslands, and mountains. I think I will avoid overlaying them, one atop the other.

The Phthalo Blue is very strong in coverage, even though these are transparent inks! I think I will experiment next using a white colored pencil, to fill in, and around, the Ocean and Land Names, hoping that the water-based inks will not penetrate, leaving a white aura surrounding the names, allowing them to clearly stand out.

Land Mass Image #2

Tune in next time, same craft channel, same craft time, for more of… As My Stomach Churns! [Sponsored by your favorite anti-acid supplier -- tablets not included.]

Personal logo Sgt Slag Supporting Member of TMP16 Jun 2021 2:19 p.m. PST

Finally tried using white colored pencil over the letters, then I applied the ink, full strength: photo link. It is better, but the ink is still very strong, and it is still mostly covering the pencil coating.

I logged into the Daler-Rowney site, to check out their range of Aquafine acrylic inks. I found a better blue color that I like (Coeruleum Hue), but it is listed as opaque! The Phthalo Blue I am using, is listed as transparent, and it mostly covers the underlying toner imagery… I expect that the opaque Coeruleum Hue would completely hide the underlying black toner imagery…

Time to experiment with watering down the Phthalo Blue ink, to see if I can lighten it up. Also, time to search YouTube for information on these acrylic inks, and how to vary their pigmentation levels to decrease their overpowering coverage.

I really was hoping the waxy colored pencil coating would repel the water-based ink. Only a tiny amount of joy in that prospect. Cheers!

Sorry - only verified members can post on the forums.