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"3D Papercraft buildings for wargames" Topic


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19 Apr 2021 10:55 a.m. PST
by Editor in Chief Bill

  • Crossposted to Terrain and Scenics board

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Tereydavi19 Apr 2021 9:52 a.m. PST

This is an article I have made about papercraft terrain, probably the cheapest way of making a good looking gaming table, and a really good solution for storage as it can be folded down.

Cheap, easy to store and you can make a whole city in a couple of hours…

Have a look at the post, I hope you like it and it is helpful!!!

link

Kropotkin30319 Apr 2021 11:37 a.m. PST

Thank you Davi,

Very inspiring. I think I will have a go too. I will start with a flat rooved building. I like the little details you have made like doors on the roof.

Fitzovich Supporting Member of TMP19 Apr 2021 4:33 p.m. PST

Thanks for posting!

UshCha19 Apr 2021 9:17 p.m. PST

Can't agreee more, I have been using fold flat since about 1996. I have never understood why it never caught on big time. Why stop at builidings? I do hills in module form as well. Its supprising what can be done. I started out using cerial boxes as they had long term built in creases and cheap peinters were still dot matrix.

Bit weary today so I have cheated a bit and used the stuff up on waegames vault to show mine.

link
link
link

I did more hills than above and even a cargo ship. There is a whole world out there from old bridges to Motorway bridges to industrial complexes, even a missile launch pad with missiles to be built and you can have them all as the space requirement is minimal.

BE WARNED you will become addicted, just enjoy it.

Ps, I for choice use 370 gsm card, don't use paper glued on as it can cause dimentional errors for more complex shapes. What do you use?

Personal logo Sgt Slag Supporting Member of TMP20 Apr 2021 6:52 a.m. PST

I am working on 54mm 60mm buildings, for Army Men games. I am using MDF walls, with windows cut out, by laser (nephew owns a 50W laser cutter for his business). My design will require small, 2" segments of plastic drinking straws to be Hot Glued along the wall edges. The concept is to put the wall section edges against each other, so that they line up; then insert a wooden dowel through the straws, to hold the walls together. This will allow them to be taken apart, when not in use, for better storage options.

Need to prototype one still. Planning on painting the MDF, decorating it with printed label paper signs, and attaching removeable catwalks, inside, behind the windows, to allow figures to mount the different levels. Internal floor area combats will be resolved per the rules, but in an abstract manner, without a physical representation of each floor's battle.

Hoping to get a large city battle up and played, this Summer…

I have a large inventory of 25mm – 28mm cardstock buildings. I found mine were easily damaged during handling, and play. I began printing them on full sheet label paper, which I then attach to 3mm thick cardboard. They are hefty, sturdy, and very durable. Storage is a challenge, but I prefer my pieces to last, and I prefer them to be heavy, so as not to be blown over by a light breeze. Cheers!

UshCha20 Apr 2021 1:23 p.m. PST

Sgt Slag,I have though of going your halfway house, but using cheap neodymium magnets to secure the parts together. I have never persued it, as in the end card works for me. After regular use some of my semi detached houses that were printed on a dot matrix printer are being replaced being a bit tired but thats with 10+years of playing. You do need to restrict who sets them up. Some mates are fine and some though great to play against are just too hamfisted. I just stress to folk that terrain needs to be treated with the same respect as figures. Strahgely some wargamets cannot relatl to that in may experience. The 6ft lob of a house into a box is not unknown at my club, unfortunately.

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