"Scale help" Topic

I am not good at figuring out matching scales to millimeters. Would the buildings shown here go with 28 mm figures?

link

28mm is generally regarded as 1/56 scale. They should be fine unless you are really picky. The doors may appear a tad small as 1/64 is SMALLER than 1/56

Yes.

I can't figure out why people think that 28mm is 1/56. A 28mm figure would only be scale 5'1" if that was the case. For 1/64, it would be 5'10". And, in practical terms, S-Gauge is 1/64, so you can use their buildings.

1/64 is about Hot Wheels cars size. So probably a little small for 28mm.

Mike Bunkermeister Creek
Bunker Talk blog

With most 28mm being rather large I would reccomend you go with O scale if you want to use railway stuff. If you hate figures that their entire head is above the doorway don't do 1/64.

You may also want to factor in the base the minis are standing on as well, since some don't do that, and then buildings and vehicles look small next to them.

Some even use 1/48th – 1/50th scale vehicles, and/or structures with them. Granted, sometimes a little large, especially when compared to smaller 28mm figures ranges, but a good match for the larger end of the 28mm figure scale spectrum.

I use O scale buildings for 28mm.

That is a very good site. Thanks for the link.

Matthew

There is a very useful feature of The Miniatures Page:

An All about Scales page:
TMP link

It is one place that lists 28mm figures as being 1/58th scale. And 30mm as 1/56th scale.

Wikipedia pegs 28mm as 1/56th scale
link

For a better match to these 1/64th scale buildings, you would want to look at 25mm Figures.

All that said, the size of wargame figures are all over the place. Ideally the listed "height" is the distance from the soles of the feet to the eyes of a male standing straight. Few figure have this pose! so checking is difficult. Then they is the "Heroic" and "True" descriptors to make it even all more muddled.

The reasoning was, molds and castings change size relative to the master (shrinking). So an actual scale is difficult with cast metal figures. Why the eyes? Because the headgear would make the top of the head even more difficult to use as a reference point.

Also, what do you want the buildings for? For a 1:1 skirmish, then close to the figure scale (and maybe a bit larger, to help figures fit in the building) is good.
If you are trying to represent a larger area (eg a village shown by a couple of buildings) then slightly smaller buildings can work well. For example, I have used 10mm buildings with 15mm figures.

I also go with O gauge buildings for 28mm figures.

There are some really great deals on eBay for mixed lots. Expect to do quite a bit of kit bashing.

One of my first projects was the Plasticville hospital converted into the Twisted Pines treatment center. I spent hours building a detailed interior.

Thanks to everybody for all the good comments. I think I'll buy one of these sets and try them out. I'm curious to find out what the material is, seems to be some sort of thin plastic like material with photo covering.

These are basically printed card stock much like old school Games Workshop buildings (like Mordheim).

You could do better with more variety with downloads like Fat Dragon, Dave Graffam models and several others.

Lot less cheaper and you can make variants of each and print out all you want.

Kim

I print my PDF buildings on full sheet label paper. I cut to size, cut a piece of 3mm cardboard from the framing shop to size, and apply the decal to the cardboard. I use square wooden dowels in the corners, to hold them together, and prevent warping (glue them across long, unsupported stretches). The end results are highly durable, have great heft (won't blow away with a light breeze from the window), and they look very good on the table.

These are also available in 1/32 scale. I am sorely tempted to buy a bunch for a pending Army Men game. Storage would be simplified by gluing a section of drinking straw in every corner, on both pieces: insert a wooden dowen into the aligning straw sections on each wall piece, such that the dowel holds the walls together, in place; when done, pull the dowel out, and the walls can be stacked, carefully, so as not to knock off the straw sections.

These 1/32 models are very tempting… Cheers!