nnascati  | 16 Mar 2021 11:56 a.m. PST |
All,
I was thinking of buying some of Litko's clear bases. My normal go to glue would be Super Glue. However the Litko site warns against using it. I asked the reason, and Ken replied that as Super Glue cures it creates a vapor that Mars the finish of the clear bases. Can anyone who has used them confirm or deny this? Nick |
| khanscom | 16 Mar 2021 12:00 p.m. PST |
That's a common experience if using CA glues on model aircraft canopies; probably better to use a 5- minute epoxy that cures clear. |
| nnascati | 16 Mar 2021 12:04 p.m. PST |
Litko recommends an acrylic glue 9f some sort. |
 Editor in Chief Bill   | 16 Mar 2021 12:24 p.m. PST |
That glue might be for gluing acrylic to acrylic, I'm not sure what to use for gluing figures to clear acrylic. |
| Royal Air Force | 16 Mar 2021 12:59 p.m. PST |
I use E6000 to glue to clear bases. Strong and clear. |
| Rich Bliss | 16 Mar 2021 1:45 p.m. PST |
Ken is correct. You'll get a white frosted appearance. For gluing metal figures to a clear base, I'd recommend clear epoxy with pinning |
| nnascati | 16 Mar 2021 2:34 p.m. PST |
These are plastic Star Wars Legion figures. |
 javelin98 | 16 Mar 2021 2:36 p.m. PST |
Here's my glue of choice for working with Litko: link |
| Tgerritsen | 16 Mar 2021 4:08 p.m. PST |
I've used either tacky glue or this: link I've had good success with both. I tend to want something I can later remove, and both are really good for this. If you want something that will not come off without using a knife, these may not be great options for you, as if you work them hard enough, you'll be able to break them off, but that said, they stay on the bases just fine in regular use and transport. You have to use some force to break them off. The advantage I find with these types of glue is that if they do break off, they won't break the miniature or the base, so rebasing is super simple. |
| Yesthatphil | 19 Mar 2021 4:11 a.m. PST |
Yes, I have had clouding when using superglue with clear plastics. Phil |
| SpuriousMilius | 19 Mar 2021 3:51 p.m. PST |
I based 150+ Graven Image WWWII figures on clear Litko bases by putting a small drop of super glue on the base & carefully placing the mini exactly where I wanted it covering the glue completely, leaving them to set for an hour or more. The trick is to use the minimal amount of glue needed & to place the figure properly without sliding it around on the base. None of these have any clouding & the bonding is strong. |
 Parzival | 28 Mar 2021 1:17 p.m. PST |
"Super glue" of any brand is going to cloud plexiglass. But if the glued part can't be seen, who cares? It will bond fine in my experience, as long as the bond isn't subject to shock or rough usage. It's not the recommended glue, but it works OK. I like Gorilla's brand because they include a rubber component that helps resist shock breakage (not perfectly, but better than normal super glues). I'm still looking for a suitable glue myself, as I have a surface that will have a visible bond area for metal to plexiglass (not all that big, but still I want a "clean" look). I only need four drops, one for each of four separate connections, so it bugs me that so many of the epoxy options would just go to waste. |
| nnascati | 31 Mar 2021 6:36 p.m. PST |
Update. So I got my clear bases from Litko, along with their recommended adhesive. Once I read the directions and warnings on the adhesive, I took a single sniff, closed it back up and stuck it in a drawer. Definitely not something I'd want to use. I've been using super glue with no problems at all. |
| BrianH | 07 Jan 2024 6:03 p.m. PST |
I find G S Hypo XTL-1001 Cement works well for Litko clear acrylic burst markers it does not cloud them and dries clear with a strong flexible bond. Designed for jewelry work. Expensive on Amazon but a lot less at my local Hobby shop. link
link |
